Rust Proofing?

[uberninja]

I know there are a number of people's opinions on this particular issue in the automotive world, but I'm new to the midwest where they use insane amounts of road salt and de-icer as well as high humidity levels. In Idaho they primarily used sand and its a non-humid environment. I'm looking into rust proofing the undercarriage with one of the more permanent methods. My Ex will be my daily driver until I get my second car (MK6 GTI). Then it will become my primary winter/offroad vehicle.I know rust is awful out here, I just wanted opinions as to what to do. I drive less than 5 miles a day in the winter, but would love to keep her looking pretty and have that piece of mind the frame won't rot out on me.

If it matters, it is originally from Oregon, and it appears to have been used for some off-roading as there is some surface rust and mud caked all over the spare, but no rust holes or bad panels. I intend to add mudflaps to keep the salt down low and off the running boards. I'm also considering repainting the body either in its original green, or move it over to a bed liner.

In any event testimonials, opinions, and images are welcome. Admins feel free to shift this thread where needed, just need direction on my 20+ year old baby. Thanks in advance!

 

[chevyh8ter]

When I bought my 91 Explorer I had a bad computer. Apparently it got wet because mildew was caked on it. As it turns out my Bronco II and 88 Ranger leak water in the same location, but they seem to be from different sources. The B2 and Ranger leaks come from multiple sources. One of which I believe to be the door hinge area. Anyway, to simplify what I'm saying...take your carpet out. You may find yours leaking too. I never knew my Ranger or Bronco II was leaking until I took the carpet out. That being said, I automatically knew to check the Explorer the day I bought it, before I even gave the lady her money. Got it home and The leaking water will not dry rapidly like you may think. If water can't breathe it stays put and causes rust, sort of like being bottled up. That carpet doesn't breathe well, plus to make the situation worse , there is a sound deadening material that traps the water under that too. As for the under body, I always spray paint mine with engine enamel. I've also been considering spraying some Plasti-Dip over that.

 

[MONMIX]

If it is 20 years old you might be "too late" meaning there is a strong likelihood rust is already there. Living where you do most certainly will accelerate the process. The most you can possibly do is slow the acceleration. ( that sounds stranger than it should )

Rubberised undercoating, cavity wax are two products that will give you the edge you seek.
Get a few cans of this...
http://3mcollision.com/products/featured-products/cavity-wax-plus
Get the wands too. They are pretty cool.
Cram every orphus you can with that stuff. It is for the inside stuff. Not inside the car but the inner rails and what not.
Everything else underneath use an rubberized undercoating. Use your brain and don't get it on exhaust and suspension components.

 

[chevyh8ter]

Eastwoods Internal Frame coating with a 24 inch extension tube would be a better choice in my opinion. That way you can paint over it if you ever need to.
This same product used to be called Rust Encapsulator. I used it on my Ranger cowl (air conditioning/heating intake) under the windshield wipers.
It comes in Silver, Red, White, Green, Black and possibly some new colors now.
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz-54270.html