Rusty upper windshield lip

[TomCat_Ford]

My Sport has a leaky windshield, so I was simply going to seal it up with some windshield sealer. As I got started preparing to seal it up, I noticed some slight rust spots behind the trim piece on the windshield- it's going to have to be fixed. As it is now, it doesn't look that bad, but that's only from what I can see. I have read this thread and will probably end up doing something like what they did. I just need to find a company who will come out to my house to pull the windshield (which I hope to reuse, as it is still in excellent shape). I could drive it into town and trailer it home in our enclosed car hauler, but I'd prefer to just get it done out here so I won't have to haul it back in the trailer. We have a heated shop, so cold temps won't be an issue.

What do you guys recommend I use to seal up the metal/bondo after I get it all cleaned up? I see that the person in the thread I linked to used POR-15. Is this the best? Is there something else? If I use Por-15, how would I go about top-coating it? Just like I normally would, or is there any special prep work that would need to be done?

As I said, the rust really doesn't look like it is that bad (the windshield was replaced not too long ago), but I want to nip it in the butt before it can really get a chance to take hold.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i know everyone's opinion may vary here, but if you have pin holes there (and more then likely you will), and if it was my truck, this is what i would do. take the windshield out, and well as drop the head liner out of it. wire wheel as much rust as you can. here is where i may get yelled at. find some silver solder, and use one of those disposable soldering torches, and soldier up the holes. put epoxy primer on it, then use coarse fiberglass that comes in the small pint containers (it may also be called kitty hair as well). spread it over your rust, then sand it smooth and do your bodywork to it. before you put the head liner back in, but some kind of undercoating on the inside of the roof. it will stink like mad in there for a few days, but it will last longer.

 

[CDW6212R]

John had serious rust around his windshield, and he really likes the POR15. I found about 20" of rust along my left upper edge when I rebuilt my 99 three years ago. I discovered that Eastwood's rust products are the best, and had some already.

I had 2-3 pinholes that filled with the Rust Encapsulator and primer that was used. I think that one of those reemerged later or I missed one, because recently I had a tiny trickle(drips), and a windshield crack turned it up. The windshield repair included finding that, and the man used the same sealant to fill the hole well. I added a dab of Ultra Black RTV from the inside.

The rust needs to be killed, and the POR15 and other coatings are not ideal for that. Use a product that chemically kills it, not also converts it. Plain surface rust is no trouble for POR15 etc, but real rust that is deeper than the surface needs a penetrating chemical. Eastwood sells such a product that is now called Rust Dissolver. It is clear when new, and can be sprayed onto rust, it penetrates and wicks into rust, including body seams. That is the best first step to use after grinding/brushing/sanding rust. That stuff needs time to work, at least say an hour, but a day is better. It can be top coated with anything, including bodywork products.

Top coat that with a rust coating inhibitor like Rust Encapsulator. Then treat it as normal, body filler if needed, or just primer if it will get painted, or the windshield etching product that the pros use.

Most windshield companies will come to you for little or no extra cost. They may or may not be able to remove the glass without cracking it. The company which I still use had a new tool which used a sawzall to cut out the seal very fast. It was an attachment which looked like a thin spatula. Regards,

 

[TomCat_Ford]

I am very hesitant to say this, but here it goes. Since the rust is merely surface rust, my headliner is not stained at all (it gets a little wet, but is not stained), etc. couldn't I just seal it up with some silicone windshield sealant? The thread I linked to above was a result of something like 5 years, if I recall correctly. There's no way this windshield has been like this for that long. A year tops (and that's probably stretching it). There is no paint bubbling, only a spot where it looks like the paint was cut into, and there is very minimal surface rust there. I don't see anything that is remotely close to the rust in the above thread. It all appears to be very minor surface rust... and if that truly is the case, wouldn't the sealer effectively cut off the air to the surface (I would certainly clean it beforehand... what I can get to) therefore inhibiting the rust from spreading/rusting. Without air, it cannot oxidize, correct?

I'm having a hard time justifying pulling a perfectly nice windshield (not even a stone chip in it) at the risk if it being broken during the removal process.

 

[CDW6212R]

Look at the area carefully, and I know the rubber surround is hard to work with as part of the windshield. If it truly is just minor surface rust, you can deal with it easily.

My 93 truck I rebuilt when I bought it wrecked in 98. After four years of use, I used it to rebuild a 99 truck. The windshield had to come out to do the work. Since the area wasn't properly sealed, that four years allowed rust to grow. It has been fine since I sealed it, except for the tiny spot which rusted from the inside(unsealed).

If you can stop it or contain it then you will be fine. Just be sure that you identify how bad it is before "sealing" it closed. If there is more than surface rust, it will grow from inside of the metal, even though you cover it over. Regards,

 

[TomCat_Ford]

I will definitely be sure that it is surface rust before I proceed.

Thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it. I have actually pulled windshields before, but they were already broken. I have also installed them. The problem here, like I said, is that the windshield is in great shape. I'll take a very close look at it when I get the chance. I have to get the car back in the heated garage! ... It's a cold one out there today!