Seized Front Caliper

[Fhantazm]

Hey all. Quick question. Yesterday, for no apparent reason, the right front caliper decided to seize. Today, it appears unfrozen, however I have very little brake pressure and the pedal almost goes to the floor. No brake fluid leaking, though. Im going to go get the parts and was wondering how big of a job it is to change the caliper/pads myself. Id rather not pay someone to do something that is pretty straightforward. Any advice on the change would be most helpful. Thanks!
-Alex

 

[Doug]

It's easy, you'll need someone to help you bleed the brakes. Everything can be done with basic hand tools. Search the info is on here. This isn't an emergency..

 

[IAmTodd]

I would say no pressure to the brakes is a slight cause for alarm.

I'd try bleeding them and see if that helps. But, it it froze once, chances are it will do it again.

 

[frickea86]

changing a brake caliper is a fairly easy task. i recomend as soon after u disconnect the brake line to make sure u don't loose to much brake fluid in the line, mainly because u don't want it to drain outta the abs pump. then you would have to have a professional do it. all i did was place the end up in the air and put it between the top a-arm mounts. I did one caliper in about 25 to 30mins. Bleeding the breaks is the hardest part. An thats realitvily simple. If you need more info, search the site, there is a few write ups...good luck.

 

[Fhantazm]

Hey all. Thanks for the help. And Doug, last I checked, having no brakes is considered an emergency. I will probably go ahead and do it myself this weekend. Again, thanks for the help.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

if you are going to change the pads - change both sides. You may also want to change the other caliper. Whenever we replace a caliper, we replace both. It is a lot better. So basically, don't do just one thing to one side -- do it to both.

-Drew

 

[Lloyd10977]

Flush those brakelines thoroughly!

I have a friend who had a problem EXACTLY as you describe with a 1990 Probe. I helped to flush the brake lines and that resolved the issue. My curiosity brought me to inspect the flushed brake fluid carefully and found small particles of dirt or rust floating in the fluid. I went back and convinced him to do a more thorough flush of the system. Good thing too! There were more particles, finer, but after running about 1.5 quarts of brake fluid through, all was working as it should be.

 

[gijoecam]

Indeed, if it did it one, it'll eventually do it again. When it seized, if it got hot enough, it may have boiled the brake fluid, and there could be air (or technically brake fluid vapor) left in the caliper causing the spongy pedal. Either way, a caliper, pad, and rotor replacement are probably in order. If it was mine, I'd do the hoses too, and since I'm doing the brakes anyways, I'd do the rear pads and rotors as well. (But I'm paranoid like that)

-Joe

 

[marragtop]

Good point about the hoses. A collapsed hose could give you the same symptoms of a seized caliper.

 

[gijoecam]

Good point about the hoses. A collapsed hose could give you the same symptoms of a seized caliper.

Doubtful.... I've never seen a hose collapse under 600 psi operating pressure. It doesn't generally happen. I've seen the hose swell out and appear as though it was a snake that just ate a mouse, but never seen one fail to release the caliper.

-Joe

 

[Fhantazm]

Thanks again for all the help guys! I replaced both calipers and both pads and bled the system. I have full pressure once again. I was going to replace the rotor on the side that seized but it started raining and I had to hurry and finish(Working outside). There doesnt seem to be shuddering when brakes are applied, so the rotor should last for a couple more weeks until I can get around to replacing that(Just replaced both rotors not 3 months ago, so the drivers side should be good).

 

[Noved87]

instead of replacing the rotors try having them resurfaced instead. it should be cheaper unless they are warped badly.