Shift to Park Warning

[Merconium]

I haven't been on the forum in years. Recently picked up a 2013 Limited. It had the "Not in Park" issue so I came here to see what was known. What I learned provided me enough information to fix it in 30 minutes with no parts purchased. I was able to pop open the console and put a slight bend in the metal lever arm to force the white plastic parking pawl to make better contact with the micro switch button. I believe that over time, the loose tolerance allowed the metal to sag just a bit from use and prevented proper pressure on the micro switch button. I could not fit even the smallest needle nose pliers in there so I set the end of a Phillips head screw driver under the metal arm in the middle, then used another small flat blade screw driver to gently force down the tip towards the white plastic parking pawl. That slight bend took me from a 50/50 chance of the "P" lighting up to an immediate 100%.View attachment 156926

This is a solid fix (with a few addenda), and one you can do simply by unclipping some parts and removing one bolt.
1) Gently pull driver and passenger side panels away from the top edge, from just behind the armrest latch up to just past where the center console meets. The point is to free the top trim that holds the cupholders.
2) Pull up the latch cover and remove the bolt, seen here.
3) As described, be sure you're in neutral.
4) You can gently unclip that top cupholder trim and pull it rearward away from the center console so it can clear the edge of the console trim. Using the cupholders for gentle leverage you can rock it back and out.
5) From the passenger side, you can get a hand in with one small screwdriver (like the small 0/00 hobbiest size) and point another in from the side to make the bend.
6) Importantly, the image above is upside down as compared to when the shifter is installed. As described, you do bend the thin linkage DOWN (what, on the image, is up, hence it looking like a hump upward but actually needing to be a gutter downward). So you put one screwdriver on the underside at the circled area, to push it up and accentuate the bending action of the curved area downward. If you can't figure it out, have a friend shift (motor on, brake set) between park and neutral so you can see how the white parking pawl activates the switch.

 

[Andrew Puchalski]

hey all I have a question. Has anybody ever seen it where when you go to put the vehicle in park the P won’t light up. I have research this and found messing with the button on the shifter will make it go to park. I have also noticed in mind that if I pump the brakes while and park it will light up P. Does anybody know anything about this? Why does it light up when I pump the brakes.? Thanks for the help

 

[blwnsmoke]

hey all I have a question. Has anybody ever seen it where when you go to put the vehicle in park the P won’t light up. I have research this and found messing with the button on the shifter will make it go to park. I have also noticed in mind that if I pump the brakes while and park it will light up P. Does anybody know anything about this? Why does it light up when I pump the brakes.? Thanks for the help

Your thread has been moved to the existing one on this topic.

 

[Andrew Puchalski]

Sry new what does that mean

 

[peterk9]

Sry new what does that mean

Welcome to the Forum Andrew.
It means that there was an existing thread on the thread topic you started. All members should use the Forum's 'Search feature located at the upper right to see if their particular issue has already been posted/discussed. Chance are it has. It keeps all relevant posts in one thread and makes it easier to see what has already been discussed by various members about the issue. It also reduces duplication.

Peter

 

[Twilley]

This is a solid fix (with a few addenda), and one you can do simply by unclipping some parts and removing one bolt.
1) Gently pull driver and passenger side panels away from the top edge, from just behind the armrest latch up to just past where the center console meets. The point is to free the top trim that holds the cupholders.
2) Pull up the latch cover and remove the bolt, seen here.
3) As described, be sure you're in neutral.
4) You can gently unclip that top cupholder trim and pull it rearward away from the center console so it can clear the edge of the console trim. Using the cupholders for gentle leverage you can rock it back and out.
5) From the passenger side, you can get a hand in with one small screwdriver (like the small 0/00 hobbiest size) and point another in from the side to make the bend.
6) Importantly, the image above is upside down as compared to when the shifter is installed. As described, you do bend the thin linkage DOWN (what, on the image, is up, hence it looking like a hump upward but actually needing to be a gutter downward). So you put one screwdriver on the underside at the circled area, to push it up and accentuate the bending action of the curved area downward. If you can't figure it out, have a friend shift (motor on, brake set) between park and neutral so you can see how the white parking pawl activates the switch.

CToppir was spot on. This fix is easy, and requires no parts!
I had already bought a couple of the $3 switches from Digi-Key...just in case I needed them for the repair. I know these are tough little switches, designed to last a long time...so I was thinking it had to be another issue. Like a bad design.

After pulling apart the shift console, I looked into this "adding a small bend" tweak. Sure enough, after removing the switch I added a slight bend to apply more pressure, and it now works 100% of the time. It's been 3 days since I repaired it, and It works perfectly.

I had had Ford replace the entire shifter 6 months ago (Warranty) ...and it started failing again daily a couple weeks ago. I could have brought it back in, but that is a hassle. Figured I'd look into myself, with the help of you fine folks!
Give it a shot if you have about 45 minutes. It is very easy.

 

[Mark C Estes]

First off I'd like to thank whomever created this forum. I've owned my 2012 Explorer for about a month now and because of the many posts I have been able to successfully stitch the armrest back together, replace the backup camera & program it and gained the knowledge to troubleshoot this "shift to park" issue that plagues these vehicles.

Everyone states you have to replace the shifter, which is anywhere from $130 to $450, depending on who you get it from. Well I've narrowed the issue down to ONE component... A $3 snap action switch! If anyone can get their hands on a diagram of the one Ford uses for these shifters then anyone that can solder would be able to fix this issue for $3. I'm personally looking for this info because I'm experiencing this issue right now and refuse to pay over $100 for this simple fix. I just need to know which switch to buy. I've attached pics of the physical switch and other associated reference material.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Mark.
This Forum was created by Rick, who is the site administrator. See bottom of page.

Peter

 

[Alice Gomez]

my 14 limited says that it is not in Park when I put the shifter to park. Is this a sensor issue?

 

[blwnsmoke]

my 14 limited says that it is not in Park when I put the shifter to park. Is this a sensor issue?

Welcome, I have merged your thread with the current one that goes over this in detail. We ask that members use the search function on the top right before starting a new thread so same topics stay together.

 

[peterk9]

my 14 limited says that it is not in Park when I put the shifter to park. Is this a sensor issue?

Welcome to the Forum Alice.
Now that your thread was moved here, I think you'll find the answers.

Peter

 

[Joxos33]

Hi Everyone,

2012 Explorer XLT at 120,000 miles. Recently experienced the “shift to park” problem but a bit differently than the majority of you. I was traveling on i5 at 65 miles an hour and lost all power with my display showing “shift to park”. Luckily, I was able to safely coast to the side of the road. I then shifted to park, attempted to start the vehicle with no luck. After 15 mins of sitting on the side of i5 in Seattle, it randomly started again. Made it home, parked in the garage and shut it off. Attempted to turn back on and had a blank screen. Started looking at shifter and switches. They weren’t the issue. Checked the fuse panel and relays. Found the panel has a loose connection at the main harness. Not sure if anyone else has seen this or not. Either way, keep it in mind for future issues. Best lesson to learn, buy Chevrolet

 

[peterk9]

Hi Everyone,

2012 Explorer XLT at 120,000 miles. Recently experienced the “shift to park” problem but a bit differently than the majority of you. I was traveling on i5 at 65 miles an hour and lost all power with my display showing “shift to park”. Luckily, I was able to safely coast to the side of the road. I then shifted to park, attempted to start the vehicle with no luck. After 15 mins of sitting on the side of i5 in Seattle, it randomly started again. Made it home, parked in the garage and shut it off. Attempted to turn back on and had a blank screen. Started looking at shifter and switches. They weren’t the issue. Checked the fuse panel and relays. Found the panel has a loose connection at the main harness. Not sure if anyone else has seen this or not. Either way, keep it in mind for future issues. Best lesson to learn, buy Chevrolet

I would think that message is a normal one to receive when the engine is off and the shifter is not in Park.
Could it be that this loose connection may have been the issue you posted about when you had starting issues? You never did post any follow up info on what the problem was. 2012 Explorer XLT starting issues

Peter

 

[hd94]

Hey Guys i have a 2014 Ford Explorer with 72k miles and my battery was starting to give out on me so before it did i went and bought a new one and went to put it in and Have no Start or Crank . Instead it gives me the "Transmission not in Park" Warning And it is stuck on M. I saw on another post to jump start it and i did and it turned on but wouldn't shift gears.But haven't been able to start since Haven't Really had any issues with it until now. Any help Would be really appreciated Thanks.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Flick the shifter knob a couple times and try again (black button you need to press to shift out of park)

 

[peterk9]

Hey Guys i have a 2014 Ford Explorer with 72k miles and my battery was starting to give out on me so before it did i went and bought a new one and went to put it in and Have no Start or Crank . Instead it gives me the "Transmission not in Park" Warning And it is stuck on M. I saw on another post to jump start it and i did and it turned on but wouldn't shift gears.But haven't been able to start since Haven't Really had any issues with it until now. Any help Would be really appreciated Thanks.

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread was merged with this existing one on the same type of warning. Also, you should have the Battery Maintenance System (BMS) reset as it will retain the info from the old battery such as age.
Also, as per page 334 of your Manual, "After battery replacement, or in some cases after charging the battery with an external charger, the BMS requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time (key off with doors closed) to relearn the new battery state of charge."

Peter

 

[ctoppir]

I wanted to update my fellow Re-Engineers. My shift to park problem did return. Simply bending the lever arm worked for a while but the problem did return. I was able to find the right one at Mouser Electronics with a minum order of 1pc. It has the correct posts, fits perfectly, and comes with wire tails so you don't have to solder (butt connectors). It is an Omron part like the factory component. The Mouser part number 653-D2HW-Bl281M (Omron PN D2HW-BL281M). IMPORTANT! Some wire colors are different. Black to Black, Ford Green to new switch Blue, and Ford Blue to new switch Red. This switch is as long leaf lever with a curl at the end that worked perfectly without any modofications. ($5.28 for part, $7.99 for shipping)

This is a solution to a common ford shifter problem. $14 vs $150 shifter. spread the word...

Black ------------Black (Normally Closed)
Ford Green------------Blue (Common) New switch
Blue--------------Red (Normally Open)

Thank you Explorer Forum.

ctoppir

 

[tome]

I bent mine as well and it has worked so far. I was barely able to get to it after lifting up the center console. I assume replacing means you have to fully remove the center console and side panels to reach it?

Thanks for finding the switch and posting the info.
-Tom

 

[blwnsmoke]

I wanted to update my fellow Re-Engineers. My shift to park problem did return. Simply bending the lever arm worked for a while but the problem did return. I was able to find the right one at Mouser Electronics with a minum order of 1pc. It has the correct posts, fits perfectly, and comes with wire tails so you don't have to solder (butt connectors). It is an Omron part like the factory component. The Mouser part number 653-D2HW-Bl281M (Omron PN D2HW-BL281M). IMPORTANT! Some wire colors are different. Black to Black, Ford Green to new switch Blue, and Ford Blue to new switch Red. This switch is as long leaf lever with a curl at the end that worked perfectly without any modofications. ($5.28 for part, $7.99 for shipping)

This is a solution to a common ford shifter problem. $14 vs $150 shifter. spread the word...

Black ------------Black (Normally Closed)
Ford Green------------Blue (Common) New switch
Blue--------------Red (Normally Open)

Thank you Explorer Forum.

ctoppir

$7.99 for shipping? They could have thrown it in a white envelope with a 50 cent stamp on it lol.

 

[613GT500]

$7.99 for shipping? They could thrown it in a white envelipe with a stamp on it lol.

It's USD $20 flat fee to ship to us folks here in Canada, or free on orders of $100.00.