Shifter not going in Park. Bushings replaced, torxs tightened up. What else could be done? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Shifter not going in Park. Bushings replaced, torxs tightened up. What else could be done?

Hi Judy. I’m on it . Car is a keeper and a daily driver so I determined to get it done. Plus I did a lot of work on it and it’s really fun to drive. My ignition switch is couple of years old. I replaced it when I had an issue with immobilized . I forgot the name of it, immobilized antenna? Ring around ignition lock and I decided to replace ignition switch as well. Motor craft was only 30 dollars on ra . I would take it to consideration about ignition switch replacement. I will get back to the shifting issue as soon as I can and I will post my progress. Cheers. Max Best wishes. I am experiencing these events with my 2000 explorer. I have replaced shifter bushings, torque screws and neutral safety switch and vehicle still won't go into Park, nor would it even give a crank in Neutral.
Not sure if the neutral switch is aligned correctly.
Another member here, suggested to replace the ignition switch and not key cylinder.
Please, continue to update your trials and success.
Best wishes
Judy
 



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Hi guys :-) had this problem for a while And tomorrow having a day off and wanna work on it. Can't get shifter into park . Sometimes it is going into park and 2-3 times a day it doesn't. Sick of it. Plus I am having stalling issues and it's even more "fun " searching for neutral or park on traffic lights or whatever it happens) so I need some help on both things. Shifter - I replaced the bushings and tightened 2 torx bolts holding the linkage, one was kind of loose and the other was tight. What else can I do? I removed transmission when I was replacing timing guides- maybe I missed up something? I found post that shifter could be adjusted/aligned with some weight attached to it and being in D position. Is that something worth trying? I did not get clarity on how to do the whole process yet ( probably got to read it few times) . Second question is the wire that might causing the stalling issue, I replaced the connector on crank position sensor and it reduced stalling issue I would say considerably less stalling than it was. So now I am thinking this wire got brittle somewhere and still time to time gives me a hard time. So I want to get to it and replace the part of it which goes somewhere behind the alternator or at least to get there to see in what condition it is. Is anyone know what should I move other than alternator to have a good look at it . I have whole day tomorrow to work on it and need your wisdom and experience. Thank you.Max
Thank you for all your expertise and on behalf all you have helped, God's mercy and grace upon you and your lineage
 






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This is what the shifter cable for the exploder looks like. that white plastic clip can be adjusted to finely tune gear selection. that center clip likes to break its bushing or strip off the alignment "teeth" and likes to slide around, leading to starting issues and failure to engage park.
 


















Yes they are all the same. They use these in the f350s e350s explorers rangers sportracs. The 2 door sport should 100% be the same
 












Hi fortune410 . I fish out some videos on how to replace brake interlock and service the rod inside of this shifter gate. Couple of questions: this rod got to be greased, what grease should I use? Torque specs on those t30 torx ? If I am there I am thinking of replacing brake interlock just to prevent it falling in the future. What else should I do when I am there? I may have 6-7 hours next week to get it done. And those pins in the rod , should I replace them as well? Thank you. Max
 






The brake interlock is not a failure part in the last 30 years I have never had to replace one and these trucks go 250-350k miles

Ford would have used white lithium grease on column shifter parts
 






Hi fortune410 . I fish out some videos on how to replace brake interlock and service the rod inside of this shifter gate. Couple of questions: this rod got to be greased, what grease should I use? Torque specs on those t30 torx ? If I am there I am thinking of replacing brake interlock just to prevent it falling in the future. What else should I do when I am there? I may have 6-7 hours next week to get it done. And those pins in the rod , should I replace them as well? Thank you. Max
You could try silicone grease it should be safe to use on any rubber parts, White lithium is known to dry out, but its what they used.
 






Happy, safe and healthy Saturday. I am disappointed to reveal that after changing the ignition switch, the vehicle still won't give a crank. Had both battery and starter checked by AutoZone and they're good. I can't wrap my head around this issue. Before all these replacements, the vehicle won't start unless the shifter is toggled with a few times, from P to L. With the intention to get it in park properly. Since the initial replacements of the shifter bracket and torque screws. The vehicle did start up and driven for a day, only to seized from cranking the next morning. Since then, not a single crank, with neutral safety switch and ignition switch replacement.
Thanking you in advance and God bless
Judy
 






View attachment 464465

This is what the shifter cable for the exploder looks like. that white plastic clip can be adjusted to finely tune gear selection. that center clip likes to break its bushing or strip off the alignment "teeth" and likes to slide around, leading to starting issues and failure to engage park.
Hello, Happy, safe and healthy Saturday. I am Judy, I apologize if I have intrude on any privacy terms. I am experiencing similar experiences as mr Max, with a 2000 explorer. The shifter was very loose and the vehicle will only start if the shifter is slide from P to L, a few times. The shifter bracket under the steering column was replaced hoping to correct starting issues. The vehicle started fine after for one day of driving.the next morning till now, the vehicle wouldn't even crank. The neutral safety switch & ignition switch were replaced. Battery and started were tested positive at AutoZone. Can you offer any suggestions?
Thanking you in advance
Judy
 






Hello, Happy, safe and healthy Saturday. I am Judy, I apologize if I have intrude on any privacy terms. I am experiencing similar experiences as mr Max, with a 2000 explorer. The shifter was very loose and the vehicle will only start if the shifter is slide from P to L, a few times. The shifter bracket under the steering column was replaced hoping to correct starting issues. The vehicle started fine after for one day of driving.the next morning till now, the vehicle wouldn't even crank. The neutral safety switch & ignition switch were replaced. Battery and started were tested positive at AutoZone. Can you offer any suggestions?
Thanking you in advance
Judy
Welcome to my world) in addition to my problems with shifter ( not going into park) I am having stalling issues time to time. My problem wires : I still don't know which one gives me troubles. Crank position sensor connector wire or thermostat housing sensor wire- one of them for sure gives me stalling issues ( narrow down with help of the guys from forum) , after I wiggle the wires it starts and runs for up to week or less. When it stalls) i am having additional issues with shifter not going into park and only starts in N )) . What I am saying is: in addition to shifter problems you also have some other ongoing issue/issues. It took time and a lot of communication here to narrow down my wiring issues ( I will get to it whenever I get more information on what I should remove to get access to crank position wiring) . Now I am waiting for some parts/ availability to get to this shifter issue. I will post my progress here . Plan to grease and align shifting tube and shaft in it . ( and overall see what is going on there) . Good luck to you and keep us posted on your progress. Cheers. Max
 






2000 explorer also has a starter relay in the power junction box under the hood

If the relay fails then the starter will never turn

Simple testing at the relay can tell you where the problem is


Relay 6 in the under hood box

Also Maxi fuse 5 is a 50 Amp fuse for the starter relay
 






Welcome to my world) in addition to my problems with shifter ( not going into park) I am having stalling issues time to time. My problem wires : I still don't know which one gives me troubles. Crank position sensor connector wire or thermostat housing sensor wire- one of them for sure gives me stalling issues ( narrow down with help of the guys from forum) , after I wiggle the wires it starts and runs for up to week or less. When it stalls) i am having additional issues with shifter not going into park and only starts in N )) . What I am saying is: in addition to shifter problems you also have some other ongoing issue/issues. It took time and a lot of communication here to narrow down my wiring issues ( I will get to it whenever I get more information on what I should remove to get access to crank position wiring) . Now I am waiting for some parts/ availability to get to this shifter issue. I will post my progress here . Plan to grease and align shifting tube and shaft in it . ( and overall see what is going on there) . Good luck to you and keep us posted on your progress. Cheers. Max
Adjust the tilt on your wheel, set the wheel as low as it goes and try starting again. Sometime the multifunction switch that controls the blinkers, the connector falls apart and will come loose.
 






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