Should I remove the No-Slip (front)

[DesertSpive]

Okay, the truck is at the diff shop right now. They will be inspecting the diff in the morning to tell me the extent of the damage. Depending on price and carnage here are my options:

Rebuild with 4.10s and No-Slip
Rebuild with 4.10s and open
Rebuild with 4.56s and No-Slip
Rebuild with 4.56s and open

Personally the 4.10s are great on the street and highway, plus I have good highway fuel mileage (17.5mpg). With the intake exhaust, chip and soon to be headers (JBA says there will be low-end torque increase), I don't really feel like I need more power. However, when in 4x4 crawling over things, I really feel the need for power in first or second in the 1000-1800 or so range. I often am slipping the clutch more than I should. So I think 4.56s would benefit me here, however I would have to have the rears done and I am not sure if that is in the budget.

The second thing I am concerned about is the No-Slip. I don't know if all the diff problems were caused by the bent RCD bracket, the locker, or a combination of the two. What do you guys think? Should I leave the locker in, or take it out? I really enjoy the added traction, but a part of me rather be open and reliable, than have to go through all this again. Please give me your comments and feed back.

--Sean

 

[RangerX]

Put in a limited slip. I don't know what's available for your front, but if you got a locker in there, seems like you should be able to put in a LS. If Ranger Rick can't get you a Torsen, how about a TruTrac?

I 'get by' with LS's.

 

[Jefe]

No L/S available yet Bill.

I'd say go with 4.56's and keep the locker. . .but I havn't had the problems you're having.

The more you talk about the difficulties with this RCD lift, the more I'm thinking about going straight to SAS. I'm at about 70% for going straight to SAS right now. . . we'll see what happens at AZ . . .if you make it there.

 

[DesertSpive]

Originally posted by RangerX
Put in a limited slip. I don't know what's available for your front, but if you got a locker in there, seems like you should be able to put in a LS. If Ranger Rick can't get you a Torsen, how about a TruTrac?

I 'get by' with LS's.

I rather have an LS, but Torsen doesn't offer them outside the race teams they support and thier R&D. To me, that would be ideal. The No-Slip is the ONLY option for our fronts, no True-Trac, no nothing! Thats why I am in such a bind right now. I just have to get everything together by the AZ run, but if RCD doesn't come through, I am screwed.

--Sean

 

[John_Rock]

Originally posted by Jefe
I'm at about 70% for going straight to SAS right now. . .

What do you think the costs are gonna be? I think a big part of that is what type of suspension are you thinking about up front? I'm just curious what you are estimating that costs will be for a SAS.

After Truckhaven and doing the Slabs last weekend, I know I really need a suspension lift. I'm tired of high centering as much as I do and wouldn't mind more height for water crossing like at the Slabs.

So, do I save money for SAS or for RCD kit? Preferably I want SAS, but not if the cost is astronomical. But, I have no clue what a good SAS setup will cost.

Of course the other thing I might do is leave the ST as it is for now and build up a killer BII. Decisions, decisions!

Slabs, TX

 

[Jefe]

cost for SAS. . he he. . no clue. thats why i was leaning toward the RCD kit.
I figure <1500 for a rebuilt, geared, and locked D44 (doing a lot of work myself)
I want to skip any inbetween steps and go with 4 link and coil-overs which is going to cost $
Im currently curious as to what CoryL does with the the coil sprung SAS he's planning. If that looks decent I may buy the "kit" off him, if he decides its worth it to sell it.
My big problem right now is I want to, and am confident enough to do a lot of the work myself. but without another car (and a place to do it if my brother doesn't want it in his driveway) to get around with for a month or so it'd be impossible.

Sorry to take this thread off topic

 

[DesertSpive]

Rerard on our board has between $3000-$3500 invested so far in his '98 Ranger's SAS. That is with a Waggy D44, leaf springs and him doing almost all the work himself. So there is something to go off of...

As far as my front diff. I have had the 33s, lift and locker as a team for 7000 miles total and over 700 miles off-road without incident. I didn't start breaking things until that bracket bent.

So I am thinking with the new and improved bracket I go for it and run the locker...? It is just a matter of whether or not I take the chance with AZ and Death Valley coming up. Maybe I am a gambling man after all...

I should know more when crack the diff tomorrow.

--Sean

 

[RFR2212]

Eh screw it. Just throw in that open carrier...... And WELD IT!

 

[Yomie]

Originally posted by Jefe
Im currently curious as to what CoryL does with the the coil sprung SAS he's planning. If that looks decent I may buy the "kit" off him, if he decides its worth it to sell it.
Sorry to take this thread off topic

If cory puts it on a vehicle (which he will) theres no doubt that cory thinks its worth it. I'm going to stop by his shop sunday, that is when JoshC is dropping off his X for the Coil sprung 30 and will talk to him about a lot of stuff. I have a feeling that i will be spending some time at his shop because i am feeling that i need more of a lift also and its either this or RCD. I'll find out more info and let you know Jefe, or you can always e-mail or call him.

DesertSpive i personally think it may have been a combination of the bent bracket and the locker. With the 5-speed (i have one also) and 4.10's i also feel the need for more power in the lower end 800-1500rpm's. While offroad i also have to slip on the clutch to get over some obstacles more often. I personally think you should go with the 4.56's IF you have the budget for it, don't put yourself in the hole for it, but if you ahve the funds go for it. and keep the locker

 

[DesertSpive]

The latest...

Okay, I just heard back from the diff shop. Good news and bad. The good news is that the R&P is okay, but I need bearings and seals to overhaul the case. That will be about $600. Fixing the front diff and regearing both ends will run between $1500-$1600. (!) So, I said EFF THAT!

Apparently the No-Slip, for whatever reasons is not retaining the axle snap rings and keeps wanting to spit them out, that is why I keep losing axles. They looked at the No-Slip and said it works with the earlier IFS, but not mine. I don't really understand it. So, unfortunately i will be running open. I guess I am back to waiting for the next BIG THING in front end traction aids. And all I really wanted was a Torsen.

--Sean

 

[Jefe]

Re: The latest...

Originally posted by DesertSpive
. . .Fixing the front diff and regearing both ends will run between $1500-$1600. (!) . . .

Say what? Who was that quote from?

 

[DesertSpive]

Re: Re: The latest...

Originally posted by Jefe
Say what? Who was that quote from?

From Powertrain Industries, but remember, that includes repairing the front diff, all the bearings, seals along with a new carrier and labor. Oops. Anyway, it was just a rough estimate, a little on the high side. I will be happy when this fiasco is over and done with. Bring it on AZ.

--Sean

 

[DesertSpive]

Update

Well I saw my truck today and dropped of the internals for the open diff. Everything is looking good. They have my diff cleaned out and are going to reset my front R&P with the rebuild. They threw my new yoke on the diff and gave me new drive shaft caps for the yoke. I also asked them to check and possibly balance the Superlift shaft, if needed. It looks like the carrier was only marred and they are going to clean it up. There was alot of metal in the case and old parts, but the R&P were in good shape.

I inspected the Powertrax, and sure enough there is no groove in the splines to capture the axle shaft snap ring. I never knew that! What myself and the diff shop are thinking is that in the proper position, the axles slide far enough in to the locker to retain it, but since I bent the bracket, and the diff is farther away from the spindle, the extra distance is just enough to allow the axle to pop out. I am not 100% sure on this, but it is my theory. I loved the Powertrax in my truck, but since it doesn't have a cature for the snap ring, I am not going to rick reinstalling it. This is just a heads up for anyone who is interested. BTW, the locker looked great with almost no wear at all!

It should be done on Tuesday (as of right now I am under $550 for everything), then off to RCD for a new bracket. Hopefully I will have the truck back by Friday of next week.

--Sean