slave cylinder bleeding: frustration city

[Bored_2wd]

Brief history of prjct starts with bad 2nd gear syncro in trans. Bought replacement junk yard trans, pulled the old, installed the replacement. Bad bad error: I SHOULD have switched the two slave cylinders because I know my existing one is good. Don't know the condition of the junk yard one. But I forgot to switch them. So now I'm stuck with the unknown one unless I end up dropping the trans again. Since then I've spent hours bleeding the clutch to no avail. Just tonight I finally got my wife out there to help. I'd open the bleeder, she'd slowly depress the pedal, and I'd close it at the bottom. After doing this about 20 times, I saw movement of the slave through the little porthole in the bellhousing! But I'm guessing not enough movement. So we kept at it. Finally gave up a few moments ago, both exhausted from the day. Truck still 'TINK's when attempting to start, meaning that that slave cylinder still isn't moving enough. I'm just guessing that it needs to move a little further. Now finally I'm getting some good fluid out of the line on the bleeding - tomorrow I'll just do this again, hey maybe it will work afterall. Fluid level didn't go down at all overnight, and their doesn't seem to be any sign of a leak that I can see. ARgh.
--Bob

 

[Dre]

Well, bleeding your clutch is a bit different than bleeding brakes. This procedure does not rely on pumping action of the clutch pedal as much as on gravity. First, fill the bottle with fluid, get under the truck, push a plastic hose over the valve, open bleeder and let the fluid flow into the bottle untill there are no bubbles. Don't let the fluid level fall too low in the master cylinder bottle. Close the bleeder valve. Then, have your assistant (wife) press the clutch slowly and hold it, open bleeder valve again allowing fluid to flow and close the valve when the flow stops. Once closed your wife can release the clutch pedal. Have her then press and release pedal a few times waiting for a few seconds each time the pedal is released. Check fluid level...

should work.

I also replaced tranny once with a used unit but at that time I did swap cylinders...
I've owned a 5 speed Sport... now I own another 5 speed - fun to drive.

 

[Tony H]

Not familiar with the Ford Slave cylinder. On my Chevy pickup, I sort of reversed the Bleeding procedure. I went thru what you are experiencing.
I unbolted the Slave so the Plunger came out much more then when it was compressed up against the Fork. I let the slave Gravity feed untilk it dripped out of the Bleeder. Then I closed the bleeder and pushed the Plunger on the Slave in very far. Tons of bubbles coming out of the Reservior. I did this a few times and I was good to go.
It seems that with my truck, I wasn't getting enough Range of movement to get the fluid down enough.
Again I am totally unfamiliar with teh Ford Slave setup. This may not be possible with your 'X'

 

[Bored_2wd]

Thanks guys. Just kicking myself for not remembering to change the slave cylinder. Maybe one more shot at it tonight will do the job. I'm also wondering about the starter. It's just making a strong solid 'TINK'. Could the starter be interfering with something? I doubt it but I thought if I had an assistant I could have them press the clutch and then see if theres any difference to rolling resistance of rocking the truck back and forth with it in gear.
I do know that I let the fluid drop too far in the reservoir. When I poured fluid in bubbles came up for a few moments as it gurgled down. Could I have air in my master cylinder? If so isn't it self-bleeding?
Thanks everyone!
--Bob

 

[Bored_2wd]

Thanks guys. Just kicking myself for not remembering to change the slave cylinder. Maybe one more shot at it tonight will do the job. I'm also wondering about the starter. It's just making a strong solid 'TINK'. Could the starter be interfering with something? I doubt it but I thought if I had an assistant I could have them press the clutch and then see if theres any difference to rolling resistance of rocking the truck back and forth with it in gear.
I do know that I let the fluid drop too far in the reservoir. When I poured fluid in bubbles came up for a few moments as it gurgled down. Could I have air in my master cylinder? If so isn't it self-bleeding?
Thanks everyone!
--Bob

 

[Bored_2wd]

Actually, if the transmission is in neutral, shouldn't the starter be able to move the engine and the front shaft of the trans? Why am I hearing a heavy solid 'TINK' when I turn the engine over? Could the starter be unable to engage for some reason? Could something be locking up the engine?
--Bob

 

[Dre]

when you put it back together did you tighten the bolts? what about that large metal spacer that goes between the engine and transmission? did you remember to put it on?

Other than that I can't think of anything else that could be in the way...

does starter turn or does it just engage without turning???

could be loose contact on the main power cable...

 

[Bored_2wd]

As soon as the kids go to bed I'm gonna put the rear end up on blocks and see if the wheels turn. If they turn when in neutral, don't turn in gear, and turn if the clutch is pushed down and it's in gear, then it's something to do with the starter... I'm also gonna check that I tightened the power cable to the starter. Thanks for the ideas.
--Bob

 

[Bored_2wd]

Threw it in 1st gear, truck would not roll. Pushed in the clutch, truck rolls. Very good sign, right? That clutch is disengaging from the motor. loosened up the starter, moved it around a little, repositioned it, and tightened it up again. Then threw the trickle charger on the battery for an hour.
IT STARTED UP! Too late to see if the truck will back out of the garage, would have to jockey cars around in the driveway, but IT RUNS!!!!!!
You know, I vaguely remember something going on with the starter several years ago when I did the first tranny swap - I think something similar happened, don't recall the details. YES IT RUNS AGAIN!
--Bob

 

[Dre]

There you go... things are looking better already.