Slotted+Drilled Rotors | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Slotted+Drilled Rotors

pzy3339

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 29, 2012
Messages
244
Reaction score
3
City, State
columbus ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006, 4x4 Limited 4.6
I am wondering how folks feel about slotted and drilled rotors?

I have warped the rotors on every car I've owned, granted I buy used cars, but they typically warp within a year or two of owning the car so I figure I might be hard on brakes.

Going for some new rubber soon so figure why not do the brakes at the same time!

Opinions/experiences welcome

Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Try just slotted first. Drilled and slotted is pretty extreme unless youre racing. Do you brake with the left foot?
 






I am using brakeperformance.com slotted and dimpled rotors coated in black. so far no problems very happy with them so far. I have had them on for almost a year now.
 






I have some Powerstop and they are pretty good but do moan a bit under hard braking.
 






I don't ride the brakes I just do a lot of inner city driving.

I also brake late and through corners which I feel is hard on them.
 






Reputable brands and brands to stay away from would be appreciated as well.
 






I too was hard on the OEM brake setup on my vehicle and warped the front rotors early on just by towing a 3000 lb. load maybe 10 miles and had them resurfaced so that I could put off replacement for a year. I would say to go with the setup that I have been running for the last 2 years, EBC USR slotted rotors with EBC green stuff pads (a member by the name "the electrician" originally did a write up on this mod). This setup, once warmed up (they warm up fast), grabs really good and once the pads are worn out the rotors should still be just fine and only have to add another set of pads and be good to go.
 






I am running POWERSTOP rotors on front & back. They do stop better than the CENERIC standard replacement rotors I was using. The only thing I am not happy about is the noise. When coming down to a slow stop, you can hear the slots sliding across the brake pads. I did not hear any noise when I installed the rotors on the front. I liked how they performed, so I put a set on the rear. I am still not sure if I am going to keep the back set on. Do a GOOGLE search before you buy.
 






I use Powerstop. They've been on my truck for about 80,000 miles and are just now starting to show signs that they will need to be replaced soon. Like everyone else said, they make a little noise at low speeds but nothing too horrifying.
 






I too was hard on the OEM brake setup on my vehicle and warped the front rotors early on just by towing a 3000 lb. load maybe 10 miles and had them resurfaced so that I could put off replacement for a year. I would say to go with the setup that I have been running for the last 2 years, EBC USR slotted rotors with EBC green stuff pads (a member by the name "the electrician" originally did a write up on this mod). This setup, once warmed up (they warm up fast), grabs really good and once the pads are worn out the rotors should still be just fine and only have to add another set of pads and be good to go.

the 6000's or 7000's?

Those rotors with the 6,000's sounds good to me. $700 with tax sound about right?
 






Yes, the 6000's and $700 sounds about right since I got mine two years ago through Summit racing for $630.
 






Try just slotted first. Drilled and slotted is pretty extreme unless youre racing. Do you brake with the left foot?

Either will be no different than stock. Only race cars need the slotted or drilled. These are for pure cosmetic. Get zinc plated because they look nice but if they are slotted or drilled it makes no difference this is for a suv not a race car ;)
 






Well folks, a night of research has me feeling obligated to share my findings.:salute:

Drilling rotors was a fix for the brake pads of old. About 20 years ago it was common for brake pads to produce gasses above a certain temperature. A temperature they often exceeded from city, and most especially highway driving and racing. The use of drilled holes allowed the gasses to escape and would prevent a loss of braking by maintaining the contact between pad and rotor.

Slots scrape a layer off the pad which helps prevent glazing of the pad. Essentially the pad will gloss over if it gets too hot and the coefficient of friction will reduce to a degree that can cause sever loss of braking. This was a huge issue for semi trucks, hence the "run away" issue we used to hear about and the reason there are those hills for them to drive up along the side of the highways at the bottom of big hills. Don't miss a gear!
Anyways, this still serves a slight purpose of removing a layer of pad to maintain a clean and consistent surface. Which can be good for off road driving as it helps to maintain the pads surface after crushing it against the rotor with dirt or sand behind it. The slots help to keep things clean and consistent.

The truth is however that a quality set of pads these days does not produce gasses at the temperature range they are subject to. By the time the pads got to the temps required to produce gasses now it is most likely your brake fluid will boil and you are screwed.

Also, new pads are none too likely to glaze anymore either.

Today the benefit of cross drilled and or slotted rotors are for the most part pointless. They put them on sports cars because they look cool and people think they are sporty. They sell well for the same reason.

The negatives are that the holes are weak points and are prone to cracking. This however will be unlikely to be an issue for an every day driver and is mostly an issue seen on the track when the brakes are used extensively at high temperature. Race cars that still use these rotors typically replace them every race, sometimes even during the race.

The proponents for their use mainly state that a reduction in rotating mass without the loss of diameter is still a positive factor, and they don't care if they crack because they can easily be replaced along with tires in a pit stop.

Opinions, and the data supporting it, that debunks the advantages of drilled/slotted rotors is that a reduction of mass means a lower heat absorption capacity, the holes produce weak spots on the rotor and pads don't offgas anymore anyways, and basically the same argument against slots.


As for warping, did some good research into this as well. From what I have found the culprit is not warping of the rotor at all. It is in fact brake pad material that is unevenly coating the contact area on the rotor. How this happens is when we come to a long hard stop and then proceed to stand on the brake pedal, which causes the pad to basically melt to the rotor a bit and leave a nice print of itself behind after we let off the brakes and drive away. This leaves a spot on the rotors that has a different coefficient of friction than the rest of the rotor causing vibration as the rotors turn past that point. We do this all the time when stopping at a light at the end of an off ramp on the highway.

Apparently the best methods of combatting this are high quality pads that are less likely to "print" at these temperatures, which sounds like ceramics are good or something something carbon pads(sorry I forget exactly what they were called), also to let off the brakes after the stop if you can. Also to bed the pads really well after doing a brake job helps, having the rotors turned every time you put new pads on, especially if it is a different brand or material type of pad. Bedding new rotors or turned rotors is essential.



This is what I have found. It is from multiple sources ranging from racing forums, truck forums, brake manufactures, and the experience I found on a corvette forum given by an automotive engineer who spent his career designing brake parts and systems. The information is quite consistent so I am inclined to take it as it is.

Quality solid rotors and quality brake pads of the proper material for the type of use will give the best performance and longevity.

I hope this helps others who are looking for this information, and if anyone has any more to say about it I am interested to hear more opinions and especially interested in more hard data and testing info on the subject if anyone has it.


:chug:
 






Either will be no different than stock. Only race cars need the slotted or drilled. These are for pure cosmetic. Get zinc plated because they look nice but if they are slotted or drilled it makes no difference this is for a suv not a race car ;)

Not true, I've gotten the stock brakes on my truck to fade. Towing a trailer down back country roads with a heavy foot is rough on brakes :D

When the motorcraft stuff wears out I'll try slotted rotors with a better performance pad.
 






Also, new pads are none too likely to glaze anymore either.

As for warping, did some good research into this as well. From what I have found the culprit is not warping of the rotor at all. It is in fact brake pad material that is unevenly coating the contact area on the rotor.

Quality solid rotors and quality brake pads of the proper material for the type of use will give the best performance and longevity.

I disagree, my factory pads were glazed over when I replaced them with only 30,000 miles on them and my rotors were definitely warped because under two different panic stops (on the same trip before resurfacing) the car tried to fling itself apart and then once cooled down still felt like the tires were out of balance. Which brings us to your final point... yes, you have to set the vehicle up for your type of driving which for some of us means off road and heavy towing use and means a much different rotor and pad combination to achieve "best performance and longevity." That in itself is why I went to a USR slotted rotor with an upgraded pad; in your case you may have great results with a standard "cryo" treated rotor with Hawk LTS pads, but like you say the issue is managing the buildup of heat in the rotors/pads so that it does not cause any undesirable effect on the braking system.
 






I disagree, my factory pads were glazed over when I replaced them with only 30,000 miles on them and my rotors were definitely warped because under two different panic stops (on the same trip before resurfacing) the car tried to fling itself apart and then once cooled down still felt like the tires were out of balance. Which brings us to your final point... yes, you have to set the vehicle up for your type of driving which for some of us means off road and heavy towing use and means a much different rotor and pad combination to achieve "best performance and longevity." That in itself is why I went to a USR slotted rotor with an upgraded pad; in your case you may have great results with a standard "cryo" treated rotor with Hawk LTS pads, but like you say the issue is managing the buildup of heat in the rotors/pads so that it does not cause any undesirable effect on the braking system.

I actually still have some agreement with the slots.

I think about it like this: From what I gather so far my issue is caused by the way I drive and the type of driving I do. Which is mostly braking hard and short versus soft and slow, and making a lot of hard stops from highway speed. So, I feel that trying to find a pad that has a high heat tolerance and is good at cleaning the surface of the rotor would be best. I also think having the slots to shave off the pads continuously to keep their surface clean and fresh as well as flat to maximize surface area has a lot of merit.

I have however been pretty much convinced the holes would serve me no purpose.

Not 100% sure just yet what I will do. I have actually seen the Hawk pads referred to pretty much everywhere so I will have to look into those.

I still like the EBC rotors. They look good and get great reviews. With or without the slots they seem to be of high quality which is the most important thing. Right now my focus is on learning more about the different types of brake pads and what they have to gain or lose versus each other.
 






I installed the powerstop slotted and drilled rotors with their matching pads up front,,really happy with them for the price. They have only been on a month or so but they are much better than just regular rotors,,you dont realize how much brakes fade till you install drilled and slotted. Paid about $150 for pads and rotors.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top