Snapped a differential housing cover bolt.. any suggestions?

[angstrom08]

Describing a 2001 rwd explorer with the regular differential.

So, I made the mistake of asking a friend instead of checking the manual and was told 85 ft lbs for the differential cover bolts. And... I snapped the bolt. I checked the ford workshop manual and it's supposed to be 33 ft lbs. I was able to install and properly tighten the remaining bolts. This bolt is at roughly the 10 o'clock position. Image attached.

Given that the broken bolt is at or above the fill level, my amateur opinion is that its necessary unless I attempt to drive through a river. Also, since I'm very inexperienced, if it needs repair I think taking it to a mechanic or dealership - to prevent making the situation worse.

Basically, the question is, should I get this fixed ASAP, within the next month, or not really necessary?

Thank you for your patience.

 

[Sedition]

I'd drill into it and extract it with an easy-out. Use a centre punch first and Be careful not to snap a drill bit off inside while drilling!

 

[SoNic67]

Be careful not to snap a drill bit off inside while drilling!

That's the bad part. The drill bit steel is super hard. If he is inexperienced and breaks the drill bit in there, the whole axle needs to go to a shop.

I would drive it and look for leaks. Fix it later when you have time and money.

 

[ntex]

If it was on my car i'd keep a check on it ,fix it if it leaks.

 

[WormsExplorer]

I agree with ntex Keep an eye on it then if it starts to leak fix it.

 

[shucker1]

A good thin layer of RTV on both sides of the gasket would help it seal off too.

Not so much as to squirt out the sides and into the internal case.

 

[bill06447]

Drill it with a decent (read: not from China Freight) left-hand bit. It will probably run the broken bolt right out just by the action of drilling. Drill slow use a lube and don't lean too much into it to prevent hardening the metal under the drill tip and you'll have no problems.

Bill

 

[Flash]

Had you assembled the diff cover with RTV as per specification you wouldn't get a leak.

I'm with the 2 guys who said to just watch it and see how it goes.

Another way to get a broken bolt out is to cut a slot in it with a very small cold chisel and screw it out with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

[imp]

Had you assembled the diff cover with RTV as per specification you wouldn't get a leak.

I'm with the 2 guys who said to just watch it and see how it goes.

Another way to get a broken bolt out is to cut a slot in it with a very small cold chisel and screw it out with a flat blade screwdriver.

A bolt, yes, but this bolt, no. Broken off flush or below. A very small pin punch, say, 3/32" diameter, ground to a very sharp point, can be tried by tapping with a very light hammer, holding the punch at an angle near the OD of the bolt. This will often back out a broken bolt. I would try that, but failing to get it out, I'd agree with everyone, drive it awhile and check for leakage. Odds are, it won't leak. imp

 

[Flash]

A bolt, yes, but this bolt, no. imp

I don't see why. I have a 4mm wide cold chisel that I have used for just that purpose.

 

[Sedition]

You got that bolt out yet?

 

[angstrom08]

Thank you everyone for your suggestions, I sincerely appreciate them. I decided to follow SoNic67 and ntexs' advice and watch it.

I used black permatex rtv sealant and followed the instructions. I let it set an hour before I put the the cover back on. Then I began torquing it down and caused the disaster I began this post with. After doublechecking the ford instructions, I returned and tightened the remaining bolts as instructed.

Four hours later, I filled it with almot three bottles of 75W140 until it spilled out and then reinstalled the fill plug. You can rest certain I checked the manual for the torque specification, even for the fill plug. I let it sit overnight and checked underneath for an oil patch as well as feeling with my hand.

Since then, I've been only doing short trips and I check underneath before driving out. So far, no evidence of any leak. Also, I've been putting my hand on the cover to feel the temperature, but I don't think I've been driving near far enough for it to change temperature much at all. 10 miles at most.

I decided to change the fluid when I realized the previous owner hadn't been thorough with preventative maintenance. Having read some posts about, I got the idea to feel the diff after driving around. I don't remember exactly, but I recall being surprised by the temperature especially given how cold it was outside. Also, I noticed the seal was leaking. When I checked the fluid, I added an entire bottle of 80W90... So, I figured I should do things properly and change the fluid, and that's how this story began.

Moving ahead, I really don't feel confident trying to remove the dead bolt myself. If I damage the threads, I may end up having to replace the differential case and I believe that means basically replacing the diff itself - I worry that would be an expensive proposition. Since I think a seal on the transmission extension shaft is leaking, I may have to take this in anyways and would ask them to fix the broken bolt at the same time. I'll likely make another post seeking advice for the transmission leak and I think my u-joints look suspicious.

In case anyone is curious, I bought the Explorer with 195k-ish miles two years ago and have no idea what it's history was. I've since discovered a faint outline/shadow of what must have been vinyl number decals on the side just forward of the driver's door. So, I suspect it was a fleet vehicle of some sort at some time. The front luggage rack crossbar has two holes drilled into it - possibly for a lightbar. When I got new tires installed, the mechanic commented that it can't have suffered through many michigan winters. But, overall, it's actually served me remarkably well.

 

[beach]

I've extracted other hard bolts like that, but I once broke a thermostat housing bolt since Ford used steel with aluminum. Snapped like a twig, even after i had let it sit for days spraying PB on it before starting. I tried drilling it out but was too hard and angle was too awkward. Took it to a shop I knew, took them about 4-5 hours with heat, penetrating oil and extractor to slowly get it out and not damage the threads in the housing. $15 t-stat costed me over $400.

 

[delexploder]

I always have good luck just welding a big buger on the broken stud or bolt, the heat normally is just enough that I can get it out turning said buger with pliers, if access is good I'll use a nut and plug weld it to the stud or bolt,

 

[imp]

I don't see why. I have a 4mm wide cold chisel that I have used for just that purpose.

Sorry! Now I see what you meant. I thought you were suggesting sawing a slot in the bolt, then unscrewing it. A nice sharp narrow cold chisel like you suggest ought to work as well as, maybe better than, my sharp-pointed punch. imp

 

[Sedition]

Honestly, as a Mobile Mechanic I'd extract that for you for $65 including tax.

 

[imp]

I always have good luck just welding a big buger on the broken stud or bolt, the heat normally is just enough that I can get it out turning said buger with pliers, if access is good I'll use a nut and plug weld it to the stud or bolt,

Also a good suggestion! But not everybody has a welder. Just depends how deeply involved they have gotten. I started out with a cheap buzzbox many years ago, then tanks and torches, now MIG welder. imp

 

[fast_dave]

From the picture, it looks to me that there is enough of the bolt sticking out that you could grab it with a pair of vise grip pliers, utilizing them nose first.

Can you take another pic from an angle so that we can see how much of the bolt is sticking out past the cover?