SOHC Death Rattle Prevention?

[CDW6212R]

The noise at any time or temperature means that one or more of the valvetrain chains is loose. The answer is to fix the problem, not to do something with oil or additives or the starter.

The problem will not get better. The problem is either a weak spring in a tensioner, or a disintegrating timing chain cassette(plastic). If you wait, the engine will die, literally, with no repair possible after it happens. Fix it now, not later.

 

[Joey P]

The noise at any time or temperature means that one or more of the valvetrain chains is loose. The answer is to fix the problem, not to do something with oil or additives or the starter.

The problem will not get better. The problem is either a weak spring in a tensioner, or a disintegrating timing chain cassette(plastic). If you wait, the engine will die, literally, with no repair possible after it happens. Fix it now, not later.

You definitely know what you are talking about. I've seen and read about a million threads where you've posted on how to do this SOHC fix the right way. Anyway, just a +1 on your conviction to fix things right!

You made me believe that I need to get mine fixed right with a complete front timing cover removal and inspection. Thanks.

 

[Burnrubber1968]

sure I know the right way is to have it fixed..1500.00 was the cheapiest I found...then there is the transmission both have high mileage ready to turn 186.000 ..bottom line rebuild was 3000.00....I was just buying time until I could afford a newer Explorer...is a high mileage 10 yr old Explorer worth 4500.00? ....rather take the money invest in something newer.....thanks

 

[Togman]

Cost to fix the Death Rattle

Was the $1500 for both chains front & back?

Was this FORD dealer or an independent garage?

 

[Burnrubber1968]

yes both front and rear chains..this is a quote from a Ford shop...most smaller shops did not want to fool with this motor........

 

[98 XLT]

l have the 98 XLT auto (4lt V6 auto) with 157,ooo ks on the clock , well serviced and never had a noise until this morning , all hell broke lose when l started it , do these chains/slides/tensioners just go with out warning or would it be something else , the noise/rattle is from idle up but while you driving (letting it coast) it nearly goes away until you touch the throttle again , the explorer has been good up till now .

 

[96eb96]

sure I know the right way is to have it fixed..1500.00 was the cheapiest I found...then there is the transmission both have high mileage ready to turn 186.000 ..bottom line rebuild was 3000.00....I was just buying time until I could afford a newer Explorer...is a high mileage 10 yr old Explorer worth 4500.00? ....rather take the money invest in something newer.....thanks

No, considering that the prices I see here on CL for that vintage are around $2500.

 

[Burnrubber1968]

the rattle in my explorer is only when I start the motor.........at first start.......no noise while driving or at idle.........this is a great running explorer.......for 185.000 I feel it would give my 5.0 mustang a good run off the line....when the motor goes I may replace it will not part with this explorer...can pickup a junk yard motor for 185.00 long block...so I may like to try to rebuild the motor.....what the heck ?:

 

[4x4xbrian.com]

I recently replaced the primary tensioner in mine, I had rattler between 2500-3000 rpm quiet the rest, there are no indications of of the guides going bad or anything else, I replace the tens only and I am surprised that it lasted as long as it did it is a crap design. almost all plastic there was NO tension on the primary chain. it is an easy job, for those who want to do it.

 

[dun4791]

I'm new to the SOHC Explorer engine. I have a 99 Sport with 118,000. It rattles some upon cold startup for about 3 or 4 seconds. There is no other rattling during idle, or during driving, especially at 2500-3000., (search lead me to this). Is this the "death rattle"? It also has the jumping idle when cold,(search says intake gaskets).

Question is to those who know...............should I do the left cam tensioner/intake gaskets (Owner Notification...00M12...Ford part # XU2Z-6K254-AA....thats the left side tensioner)? Or should I do the cam guides in the front too. A search here someone stated that the 99 has the steel guides, so dunno..........

Also has anyone done the right side tensioner kit...part# XU3Z-6K254-BA....did this help.

 

[4x4xbrian.com]

replace the hydraulic tensioners on the front and rear cam chains, make sure to get the TSB service kit. it has a check valve in the kit this keeps oil in the tensioner so when you start the engine it does not have to pump oil all the way to the tensioners. This is the first step to take and should be the cure for your rattle.

P.S. the rattle is the chain slapping the guides, it is very hard on them. I had severe pitting on the lower part of the tensioner that I replaced in mine. So I would expedite a repair on a rattler.

 

[Schmitty]

1998 with 133k - original owner

Mine had the cam tensioner replaced under warranty at 30k. The rattle started again around 110k and got really bad. I took it to a mechanic to have it fixed and he bought the recomended kit. After starting the job he says that the sludge in the engine is not allowing oil to get to the top of the left head. I looked at it and it looks pretty dry. He says I could put a rebuilt in it for $4000 but it's basically not worth it. He offered me $300 bucks to take the car off my hands and he'll cover the cost of the kit and his labor. What do you think? Should I have him go ahead, pull the engine, replace the chains and tensioners? Would cleaning all the sludge of the top of the head and valve cover plus running an engine cleaner/sludge remover work? Should I part ways with it?

 

[baron4406]

Hmmm I just got a 1998 Eddie Bauer and it has a rattle, however seems to differ from those here. It sometimes has a slight rattle for a split second on a cold startup, the next rattle is at idle when its warmed up and idling very low. The thing is the idle rattle is only very intermittent, once you rev it over 1000 rpms it goes away. There is no rattle at 2500-3000 rpm's. What the heck is this?? My Explorer has 160,000 on it and runs great otherwise. I certainly won't be putting a $1000 repair into this motor when I can get a lower mileage motor for that. BTW the oil pressure on this motor is great and it leaks or uses NO oil (not bad for the mileage)

 

[CDW6212R]

Hmmm I just got a 1998 Eddie Bauer and it has a rattle, however seems to differ from those here. It sometimes has a slight rattle for a split second on a cold startup, the next rattle is at idle when its warmed up and idling very low. The thing is the idle rattle is only very intermittent, once you rev it over 1000 rpms it goes away. There is no rattle at 2500-3000 rpm's. What the heck is this?? My Explorer has 160,000 on it and runs great otherwise. I certainly won't be putting a $1000 repair into this motor when I can get a lower mileage motor for that. BTW the oil pressure on this motor is great and it leaks or uses NO oil (not bad for the mileage)

The issues are from the timing chains not having enough tension in them. The tensioners don't last the life of the engine. The plastic guides which the chains ride along can and do wear. When the plastic wears or breaks off, the chain becomes loose just as with weak tensioners.

The parts are not much more than $200. Buying any SOHC with any mileage above say 50k does not save you money and labor, or time. They all need the valvetrain parts maintained, so the difference is whether you pay to have the engine R&R'd. All of the SOHC 4.0's need new tensioners and guides prior to 2002. Ford should revise their maintenance schedule for the engine to advise the replacement of these parts(more often than never).

 

[baron4406]

I understand what you are saying however compared to some things I've read on here my truck isnt that bad, as a matter of fact I havent even done an oil change on it yet. The little sticker in the window says its due at 161,000 miles. I may try to run some Mobil 1 in it, though I'm not sure if a high mileage motor will like it. I also got a Motorcraft filter. After I do the oil change today I'll see if it has any noise, I assume the quick lube place uses cheap filters and oil. I've also read about replacing the tensioners, this looks pretty easy to do and I plan on doing that when it warms up a bit. I'm only hoping on this thing lasting a year or two-heck it only cost me $2200 and its in great shape.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well maintained they last longer. Poor oil or long intervals reduce the life of those guides etc. If you will pull the valve cover while you do the front head tensioner(intake off), then you will have a better idea of the oil maintenance.

 

[dun4791]

replace the hydraulic tensioners on the front and rear cam chains, make sure to get the TSB service kit. it has a check valve in the kit this keeps oil in the tensioner so when you start the engine it does not have to pump oil all the way to the tensioners. This is the first step to take and should be the cure for your rattle.

P.S. the rattle is the chain slapping the guides, it is very hard on them. I had severe pitting on the lower part of the tensioner that I replaced in mine. So I would expedite a repair on a rattler.

Ok, Im planning on doing the cam tensioner in the front(left) and the lower intake gaskets......kit part # YL2Z-9E473-AA

Is that the correct kit #?

Also do you have the part # for the rear(right) side cam tensioner? I will take your advice and replace that one as well if it can be done in the vehicle with just the intake removed like the front one?

 

[Rob (215)]

U are one of the few that perfectly describes exactly what type of rattle i have. I just posted my own thread on it so i don't know yet as to being the chains or the oil pump, those are like the two more common problems that i hear.

 

[westdime]

I had the rattle since I got my 01 ranger (had 96,000 on it) drove it to 130,000 and just had the front primary and front cam tensioner changed. The rattle is gone.....cost me $250 labor and $150 for parts. Now that it's said and done after looking at the primary tensioner/guide it.Could have ran another 200,000 miles,the thing was not broke at all.The spring was a little weak but other than that every thing looked good.

Just because you have the "rattle" does not mean you should panic.....the chances that it will fail are slim. Now I know someone will jump on here and say "but mine did" but the fact is a few out of 2 million sohc out there its really good odds that it won't fail.

 

[CDW6212R]

There are a whole lot more people who have had them fail than you believe. There was a recall for years before it ran out at the five year mark. The plastic of the pre 2002 design is inferior, and the two head tensioners are not strong enough to last 150k miles reliably. Those should be changed about every 75k, IMO.