SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[koda2000]

Is that a piece of foam in the engine valley?

Yes. Its's a form-fitted OE piece. I guess it's there to reduce engine noise. Apparently not all the engines had them, but I figured it's there for some reason and wasn't hurting anything, so I reinstalled it.

 

[donalds]

Yes I would reinstall it to
That explains why some of these engines are so noisy even when new or built correctly

 

[koda2000]

Yes I would reinstall it to
That explains why some of these engines are so noisy even when new or built correctly

Maybe.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's excellent, but wow that is way too clean. We're used to seeing normal mud and grime on everything, I forgot how these trucks were to start with. Enjoy the weather, I hope you get it done this week.

 

[koda2000]

That's excellent, but wow that is way too clean. We're used to seeing normal mud and grime on everything, I forgot how these trucks were to start with. Enjoy the weather, I hope you get it done this week.

Thank you Don. I've always been ODC when it comes to clean mechanical's. To me it makes it much more enjoyable to work on a clean engine. I hope to at least get it test-started this week. Do you happen to know which side of the intake manifold the knock sensor wire should exit from? Apparently that's the one wire I neglected to clearly mark. I think it connect;s on the passenger side, but I can't recall.

 

[CDW6212R]

Here's a couple of pictures of the backside of my 99, everything goes down the right except one wire group. I have other pictures but these cover most of it. Do you need a different angle/perspective?

 

[koda2000]

Today's progress:

- Fuel system lines routed and attached
- Wiring routed figured out and fuel injectors reconnected
- Valve covers torqued down
- Most wires and hosed figured out. Looks like knock sensor wire goes to passenger side, where there's a plug that fits it
- Remove a lot of dried up tape and replaced with plastic wire tires
- Various brackets loosely attached (in case they need to be moved later)
- Began cleaning out intake manifold manifold and installing new O-rings. I don't understand why these engines get so much oil inside the intake.
This engine burned no oil and showed no cylinder wear at 220K, plus I'd cleaned the manifold out once before when I'd replaced the gaskets and
PCV valve/elbows @ 190K.

I planned to reinstall the trans dip stick, exhaust headers and EGR pipe today, but my back hurts. Maybe after dinner this evening, or tomorrow. Next will be the trans lines, torque converter nuts and starter motor.

 

[donalds]

I had the oil crud in mountable lots I figured it out it was that I cleaned pcv the put in a aftermarket one ....metal...
Put in a new ford one and cut the oil down

I now know the amount of air the pcv valve lets by way more air and cleaning did nothing other than unclogged it
But the flow under vacuum is key

 

[koda2000]

I had the oil crud in mountable lots I figured it out it was that I cleaned pcv the put in a aftermarket one ....metal...
Put in a new ford one and cut the oil down

I now know the amount of air the pcv valve lets by way more air and cleaning did nothing other than unclogged it
But the flow under vacuum is key

Makes me want to add a catch-can. You could probably get away with emptying it once a year.

 

[ptf18]

Makes me want to add a catch-can. You could probably get away with emptying it once a year.

Fellows. I installed a oil catch can into the PCV system after seeing the "pool" of oil sitting in the bottom of the intake while installing an aluminum thermostat housing. I THOROUGHLY cleaned out the intake at the time of the can installation. I used the stiff, black irrigation (poly) tubing and related connectors to install the system in the OEM piping.

Have maybe 10K miles on the catch can system and the bottom line is...... oil is still getting into the intake. The can (with a dipstick) "catches" very,very little oil. I remove the can and open it up at my 5k oil changes (twice so far) and there was MAYBE 1/16" of oil in it (pint size can).

Perhaps the OEM PCV system "draws" so much air that the oil mist doesn't have time to "collect" in the can but rather get pulled into the intake. Seems some other manufactures engines had "restrictors" in their PCV that limited the amount of air going thru their system.

 

[ptf18]

Can the engine AND transmission (together) be installed/removed from the S/T's? would that make the installed/removal....less complicated?

 

[koda2000]

Fellows. I installed a oil catch can into the PCV system after seeing the "pool" of oil sitting in the bottom of the intake while installing an aluminum thermostat housing. I THOROUGHLY cleaned out the intake at the time of the can installation. I used the stiff, black irrigation (poly) tubing and related connectors to install the system in the OEM piping.

Have maybe 10K miles on the catch can system and the bottom line is...... oil is still getting into the intake. The can (with a dipstick) "catches" very,very little oil. I remove the can and open it up at my 5k oil changes (twice so far) and there was MAYBE 1/16" of oil in it (pint size can).

Perhaps the OEM PCV system "draws" so much air that the oil mist doesn't have time to "collect" in the can but rather get pulled into the intake. Seems some other manufactures engines had "restrictors" in their PCV that limited the amount of air going thru their system.

Humph. Well so much for that idea (catch can). Perhaps a restrictor in the PCV line would be something to try. Something like a metal or plastic slug with a smaller ID hole?

 

[donalds]

Humph. Well so much for that idea (catch can). Perhaps a restrictor in the PCV line would be something to try. Something like a metal or plastic slug with a smaller ID hole?

Yes a brand new pcv fixed this exact problem for me
The new motorcraft one restricted I'd say 50% more air

 

[CDW6212R]

Make note, PCV's vary greatly from vehicle or model to the next. The difference is the amount of restriction to airflow. Some let a lot of airflow through, some very little. You may alter the PCV itself to help an issue like that, especially when a change is made like a blower/turbo.

I had an 85 Crown Vic with very bad blowby through the cylinders, the pressure was pushing out excess PVC gases, into the air cleaner located, mesh screen. I got tired of the problem after I discovered that the rear intake gasket(cork) had blown out. Oil coming out there and the air filter got my attention. I fixed the intake gasket by filling the gap with RTV, solved. The oil in the air cleaner I chose to reroute the PCV by using intake vacuum, and a restrictive PCV. The PCV system solved the oil blowing out, but the VV carburetor was module controlled, it didn't like the slightly different vacuum signal, so the engine used more gas. I used the car as a spare, so it worked okay for me, stopping the oil problem was worth it. Do what you have to do I'd say.

 

[koda2000]

Today's progress:

A good day w/much progress made. It's supposed to get hot out starting tomorrow and typically when that happens in GA it stays hot - Spring being over. So I decided to concentrate on working under the hood, so I can get the hood back on by the end of the week.

Today:
- Intake manifold gaskets replaced and intake bolted back on
- Coil bracket reinstalled
- Coil pack reinstalled
- Plug wires reinstalled
- All necessary engine wiring reconnected (except the starter)
- All but 1 vacuum hoses reconnected, I need to figure out where the last line goes,
I think it goes to the heater control valve
- PCV and hoses installed and reconnected
- Knock sensor connector identified and reconnected
- EGR valve reinstalled on manifold
- Engine grounds reconnected
- Throttle body reinstalled and throttle cable reconnected
- Air cleaner, intake tube and MAF/air temp wiring reinstalled
- Battery box reinstalled


Planned for tomorrow:
The EGR pipe, torque converter nuts, starter motor, exhaust headers, DPFE and maybe address my metal trans line issues then radiator (or loop the trans lines).

Other than engine oil and fuel that should be everything remaining to attempt the first start.

 

[koda2000]

Couple of pics from today's progress:

 

[koda2000]

Can the engine AND transmission (together) be installed/removed from the S/T's? would that make the installed/removal....less complicated?

IDK. The transmission is very long on these trucks and I don't think my hoist would go high enough + you don't get very good balance on the engine with only 2 pick points. I suppose it could be done but the extra work in removing/reinstalling the engine and trans together would probably cancel out any benefits. Removing the cab might be the cleanest solution... LOL. The problems are just part of the learning curve. Once you've done one you learn what to do and not do.

 

[donalds]

Clean as my engine bay maybe even cleaner and believe me I'm ocd great job so far the egr tube will feel great to bolt on in two seconds lol
Use a ton of anti seize
It's gonna be a nice truck

 

[410Fortune]

hey dudes
We install engines and transmissions bolted together in these trucks ALL THE TIME
It helps with two people
It is all about the angle of the dangle

The engine must be just a block, heads, lower intake and manifolds... no starter no upper intake no accessories, no t case (of course)
You can EASILY drop the V6 in the engine bay WITH the auto trans attached WITHOUT messing up your radiator support and stickers although some cardboard and masking tape can go a long way here......

Even the v8 will fit with the trans on it.....BARELY but it will go.

With these pics from yesterday it should be running today.........You made awesome progress!! fingers crossed

 

[koda2000]

Today's progress:
- Removed front sway bar (took me all of 4 mins) to move metal trans lines
- Took the lower transmission metal line loose from the trans again
- Got the upper and lower trans lines situated correctly, reinstalled the line clips that hold them together and the line support bracket, hooked up the trans oil cooler
- Temporarily installed the radiator so I could hook up the trans lines
- Reinstalled the transmission dip stick tube (lost the nut that secures it somewhere)
- Installed the torque converter-to-flexplate nuts w/blue loctite and torqued them to 35 FP
- Reinstalled the starter motor and hooked up the wires
- Removed/reinstalled the lower sheet metal oil pan to hammer our a small dent I'd put in it

Almost ready to get it running today. What's left for tomorrow is install and torque spark plugs, hook up the plug wires, blow out my exhaust pipe/cats to evict anything that may have crawled in there during the winter, install exhaust headers and EGR tube, install the DPFE, put in oil and fuel, steal a battery out of something until I buy a new one, prime the fuel pump, crank the engine until I see oil pressure and see what happens. Barring complications, it should run tomorrow.