SOHC to OHV swap questions | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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SOHC to OHV swap questions

Chris: Thanks again, I have the key from the donor vehicle. Let he see if I got this: place the donor key in the steering column after I get one cut. How do I get it cut to new frequency (take the ecu to a dealer) or the original donor key and have the new keys cut from it. I still have to use the module from the steering column and the one from the donor driver side air bag correct. I plan at some point in the spring or summer to rebuild the SOHC motor top to bottom. and buy the special tools I'm a tool addict anyway. There are some nice SOHC vehicles for sale Cheap Cheap with timing chain issues. It's how I bought this one. Although I was dumber than a rock about SOHC engines at the time (educated by my mistakes) Thanks Stefin

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First off, a disclaimer. I haven't ever had to deal with a PATS vehicle during an engine swap, I've managed to avoid it on all three swaps I've done. Therefor, it wouldn't hurt for you to do some more research on this, even though I believe what I'm telling you is right.

That being said, I think you're confused with two of the options i gave. First off, there's 4 things that need to match (be from the same donor) to make PATS work. The ECU, the module behind the passenger airbag, the module on the steering column, and the key(s).

The EASY WAY OUT option i mentioned: You swap the ECU, the behind airbag module, and the module in the steering column from the donor into the new vehicle. Then you tape one of the donor's keys inside the steering column, thus there is always a key present for pats. This allows you to use your existing keys to use the truck, but effectively disables the anti theft portion of the system. If you don't mind carrying extra keys, you could add the donor key to the keyring, but that could get very confusing having two identical keys, but only one fits. I guess you could cut off the shank of the donor key or something.

The other option is to swap ecu and the two modules, then tape the donor key to the outside of the steering column (temporary). Then, once its running and drivable, you can take it to a dealership and have them wipe the PATS and program the old key codes so your old keys will now work.

The brute force/no dealer method is to replace the ecu, the module behind the airbag, the key lock cylinder, and all the keyed door locks from the donor. Then your donor keys are now the keys for the new truck.

I hope that helps to clear it up.

EDIT: Ok, I did some research, and it looks like you only need to swap the module behind the airbag, not the one in the column. All other information still applies. Here's a quick writeup on that from Rwenzing:

PATS Module-
I believe that the Ranger and Explorer Type B PATS Modules are in the same location - inside the dash on the passenger side. It has a single sixteen pin connector with maybe a dozen wires. No problem to unbolt, unplug and swap the module itself but the passenger side airbag is in the way. The airbag assembly is held in by two bolts from the bottom above the glove box. There are many dire warnings in the factory manual about proper airbag handling procedures. Personally, I don't like working on them but I just make sure that the battery is disconnected and keep out of the way during handling. Proceed at your own risk.

PATS Transceiver Module-
I had to swap this part because I changed from PATS Type E to PATS Type B. Your situation is type B to Type B and, AFAIK, this is not a "memory" module and does not need to be swapped. If you find that it does, look for a small, 4-wire module on the column adjacent to the ignition lock.


Got it on the PATS I have the donor key ECu and both modules. The door locks I may choose to stay away from by not switching the complete steering column. the donor is 4 door and new vehicle is 2 door (I'm not sure if the 4 door makes a difference). One more thing the donor is 4wd the new one 2wd see any problems. both transmission on the door identifications under TR (transmission) are both designated "D".

No, shouldn't be any issues with 2dr/4dr and 2wd/4wd. Obviously you'll have to stay with the 2wd trans. The ECU doesn't have any of the 4wd stuff, that's in the GEM.

One last comment on the PATS, i misspoke on swapping the whole column. That's only necessary for adding PATS to a non-PATS truck. To use the brute force method, you just need to swap the ignition tumbler. You would still have to swap the door locks of course, so its probably still out of the question.


So whether I change the complete column or just the inigition switch tumbler I still need to change the door locks regardless is that correct? I'll choose to change the whole column. That way I can store the 2001 column ecu wiring harness with the SOHC motor for a later application. What about the module behind the drivers side air bag? One more thought there's a door code keypad on the drivers door. I don't have the code but I know how to reset it, will i still be able to do that? or is that a toss up? or just forget it?

Changing door locks is only necessary if you change your ignition tumbler so that the door locks match the ignition key. Conversely, you could have two keys.

You don't need to change the keypad either. If you want to know the code for the keypad, take your jack cover off in the back of your truck. If you look in the hole behind it, at the end that is toward the front of your truck, there is a little box. The code for your door keypad will be printed on that.

I'm assuming inigition switch and tumbler mean the same thing. How about the PATS module behind the air bag passenger side?

The tumbler is the part the key goes in.

The ign switch is the electrical part that is farther down inside the column.

Only the tumbler needs to be swapped, not the actual switch.

Ok, one more time. In order for PATS to work, there are three things that need to match. The ECU, the PATS module (behind airbag), and the key(s). The module in the steering column is just a code reader, i was incorrect about needing to replace it.

Replacing the whole column is for vehicles that don't have the key code reader, you don't need to.

Replacing the tumbler allows the donor keys (which the module and ecu recognize) to fit your truck. Replacing the door locks (the physical key lock, not the keypad) simply allows the donor keys to unlock the doors manually. If you have the door keypad, you could probably just use that instead.

This is just for what i called the brute force method, with the other two ways I listed you won't have to replace anything in the column.


Chris much appreciated thanks: ding ding ding See the light go off over my head.Today is 60 degrees and Sunny in Nashville Tennessee So we start this conversion Sohc to Ohv. I'll try to Video or take pictures for the ones who come next. You've saved me hours (information is power and time), and allowed me to configure a plan. I should have the motor clean, with the new wiring harness from Pull a Part installed, and swinging from my a frame motor swing early tomorrow. The exhaust fitting will be next, even if it's cut and weld that we can do. Two others are watching this and are next. SteFin

My donor vehicle is a 2000 Ford explorer 4x4 X engine. I removed the transmission and transfer case and sold it about 4 months ago. The buyer just installed it in a 1998 Explorer 4 door engine X 4x4. It doesn't shift correctly (automatic trans). Any body seen this movie, before. We both drove the 2000 4x4 at least 200miles each. Should I think about trading electrical parts both transmissions 5r55e's fitment is 98-2001 according to my information. Any one know what I'm missing here. Could the torque converter installation be faulty. I didn't install it. Thanks Stefin

Please give more info on 'Doesn't shift correctly'.
Any blinking check engine light? accelerating from a stop does it start in first, and do you feel it shift thru the gears? Can you shift to different gears manually? Is there reverse?

Lets start with trying to figure out if its computer, wiring, or faulty trans.
My moneys on the trans having issues. Throttle body, or solenoids.

It'll be tomorrow before I can talk to the man again his cell is off. He mentioned it had to shift manually although its an automatic. Reverse works. I'm assuming he went though the gears manually on the column and started from a stop in 1st. Thanks SteFin

Blinking OD light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

need to get the code read and start a thread in the transmission area of the forum posting all particulars and the code.

I doubt the swap had anything to do with the issue you are having now

Also, check to make sure everything is plugged in. Those symptoms could be caused by the shift solenoids not getting signal. Its a 16 pin square plug, located on the left side of the trans IIRC.
EDIT: Just looked it up in my EVTM, plug is on the drivers side of the trans, a few inches in front of the shift arm.

Flashing O/D light is the transmission indicating a fault code. Identify the problem before continuing to drive it, its very easy to burn up a malfunctioning automatic trans.


Another thought, if the wiring harness was left on the trans, it has two plugs into the engine harness. Make sure both are connected.


Another thought, if the wiring harness was left on the trans, it has two plugs into the engine harness. Make sure both are connected.

Chris true. I had a spare connector to the trans when my motor went in. Never did experience what the issue would have been though, as we found the connectors home before starting the motor.

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I've never started a new thread wanted to but it has eluded me for way over a year now. any suggestions on how?

Started the sohc swap to ohv yesterday Want to thank everyone for their input information is King when doing this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!