soldering rear diff for DD and Bolt are rusted | Ford Explorer Forums

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soldering rear diff for DD and Bolt are rusted

bonami2

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December 17, 2014
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City, State
canada laval
Year, Model & Trim Level
Yamaha timberwolf 250
So i been thinking to take my truck an explorer 2000 sohc 4 door 4x4 to a garage and ask them to solder the rear diff.

But im using this truck as a daily driving truck. Will use somewhere this years.



Im in canada so winter is pretty nice to have a locked diff but im unsure if it can be reliable.


The rear is a solid axle and the diff seem to have no number on it.

So idk it an automatic sohc so i imagine they put a 3.73 in it?


The bolt are rusted like crap so im affraid they may unable to open it?


And any idea of what size of tire is the biggest for them stock ?


Thank you
 



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This is a very bad idea. You will not be able to drive it on pavement after that.
If your rear is LS, is actually better than a solid axle, it will provide more stability on snowy roads (at curves).
 






This is a very bad idea. You will not be able to drive it on pavement after that.
If your rear is LS, is actually better than a solid axle, it will provide more stability on snowy roads (at curves).


Many people run soldered diff on road mostly drifter with car with no problem but idk for a heavy truck. Drag vehicle are locked too and many run them on road.



I dont know if it a ls and of what i know ls are always broken so expecting that a truck with 300k km still has the ls working im unsure ahah


Anyways for now i need tire because they are worn to death winter and summer one so that already $$$
 












Ummm you mean a welded diff?
I wouldn't do it for a DD, I would go with a posi rear end off a different vehicle. If you use a welded diff as a DD you will hear your tires screech every time you turn.


Mostly what happened all this year with the winter tire in summer hahah

Im just affraid that i pay and all blowup because of it age :)


Do the diff plate are cheap to replace? With new bolt
 






Using a welded diff on such a heavy vehicle will affect tires, axles, driveshafts (U-Joints), TC... it's a mess.
Easier is to fix the Limited Slip differential - if it is really broken (replace the friction packs).
PS: LS differential would have the code D4 on your door sticker.
 






Using a welded diff on such a heavy vehicle will affect tires, axles, driveshafts (U-Joints), TC... it's a mess.
Easier is to fix the Limited Slip differential - if it is really broken (replace the friction packs).
PS: LS differential would have the code D4 on your door sticker.


Oh great gonna check the door but even the door got mileage ahaha




Nope no d4 on it crap :(


Axle and driveshaft u-joint are easy to fix and can probably last because i mostly dont haul anything ( i dont even have a trailer for now and my atv weight 450lbs anyways)

What is TC Are you meaning Traction control? if yes the abs is disabled anyways.


Im in canada so of what i know most part are harder to find.


Dont think i want to put an ARB locker on that thing.



The spool and soldering is the easiest ways to have it. Im not really hard on throttle either on road
 






Found what im running on

45 Open 3200 3.55

3.55 ratio and a capacity of 3200 lbs i imagine so one of the strongest diff

http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/Axle.htm


IMG_20150207_164047.png
 






Didn't know guys still used Lincoln Lockers lol they're ok if it's dirt and gravel roads 100% of the time, otherwise don't waste your time with a street vehicle.

Bill
 






Didn't know guys still used Lincoln Lockers lol they're ok if it's dirt and gravel roads 100% of the time, otherwise don't waste your time with a street vehicle.

Bill


Gonna stick with stock setup it seem ahah :)
 






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