Solid axle ?'s

[tdavis]

An update..

Well, I shattered the trackbar mount welds. Lucky for me, I had a bolt on it to help hold it on.

After taking it off, I found a crack about 2" long, a hole about 1" by 1/4" long (vertical), and very thin frame (probably 1/8" thick steel.)

So we built a mounting point for the trackbar - take a peice of 2x4x3/8 square tubing, cut, weld to frame. Take the plate that was on the old bronco frame, and weld that onto the frame. Oh, and also weld close the hole, 'v' the crack and fill that, grind, weld again, grind, bolt, drill, and weld some more.

Finally ended up with this trackbar mounting point. The frame is basically reinforced; the track bar is bolted on using the bolt from the steering box, and a grade 8 bolt into a horn built from 3/8" steel.

Guys, the frame isn't very strong in the area! If you can, use all 3 bolts from the steering box, plus anything else you can! My duff shock hoops got in the way, so I can't do that. Also, use 3/8" steel on this bugger - you won't regret it.

I've updated my pics collection, with 3 more pics. Again, all are here

 

[riffman]

nice setup T....like the steering? thats quite possibly the best money i spent on my swap.

how is your bump steer? got any?

 

[BoatsRcool]

tdavis -

whats that blue tube running to your front pumpkin??

ps. nice new set up.

 

[tdavis]

Riff - Bump steer? Only when I really hit a big rock hard.

The angles of the track bar and the drag link are pretty close!

Boats - It's the air line for the ARB airlocker.

Yea, riff is jealous now.

 

[A91EBexplorer4x4]

steering setup

Hey Tdavis and Riffman,
where did you get the steering stuff for the 44 and how much was it. did you ahve to ask for anything special on measurements or anything? im swaping in a 74 D44 as we speek and havent figured out how im really going to do this steering. so you guys answer up and gimme some tips. Later

 

[riffman]

yeah howard....we got the steering from www.performanceunlimited.com the only measurements that you need are from knuckle to knuckle on center, and from the pitman to the passenger knuckle. then you have to decide if you want tie rod over knuckle or under....i went with over...its like an extra 13 bucks or so....

and tom...i am deffinately jealous of that freakin locker.....my ez locker is wicked noisey...yeah..the track bar is pretty close....p.s. i think i am starting to get closer to you by way of body damage etc....heheh..in attica this past weekend, i screwed up some more panels, and busted out my right rear most window....oh well...it happens!

 

[A91EBexplorer4x4]

Steering

Ok what are the advantages and dis advantages of the two different set up styles that you are talking about on the knuckle. the top or bottom?
also on the bar from the pitman arm to the pass. side should that be straight or be like a lazy "S" type bar. ive seen both but don't really know wich is better or why they are different. Nice to hear from ya Riff. havent seen you on here in a long time. nice to have ya back .
is there a brand name of the steering system.?
Later Howard

 

[riffman]

disadvantage of the above tie rod...its 13 bucks more. advantage...it keeps the tie rod up and above harms way....

it can be straight with the drag link...the only reason that some of them are "S" like, is so the axle can droop further with out binding the tie rods.

the brand of the whole system is Performance Unlimited. the link to the particular system is HERE

hehe..nice to be back!

lata

 

[tdavis]

Ok, it isn't the actual track bar that makes the difference.. Do this:

1) draw a straight line between the two trackbar mounts.
2) draw a straight line between the the pitman arm, and the knuckle.

The two lines should be as close to parallel as possible. The closer to parallel, the less bump steer.

The distance between the two lines, and the length of the two lines don't make any difference.

 

[tdavis]

ok, after finally getting a chance to wheel it hard, I've got one major observation to post about.

Get a long rear driveshaft when you do this conversion.

Yup, mine came apart. Don't ask how - it just did. (ok, what I did to get to come apart - go down a near vertical drop, that almost plants the nose in the ground. The rear is now pulled back, and articulated away from the front. Bingo, driveshaft will now come apart at the slip joint.)

 

[tiessen]

I agree. I'm only running about 6" of lift MAX and when I let the rear end droop, I'm close pulling the driveshaft out. Now if you only articulate 1 wheel, then it's only 1/2 the distance.

 

[A91EBexplorer4x4]

drive shafts

TDavis, what did you do with the front driveshaft did you have a custom one made when you put in the D44? and was the rear one the stock shaft?

 

[riffman]

I'm not Tom, and im sure he's relieved to find that out! But...i had a stock rear drive shaft, and i had to get a new one made too. but the front stock one is doing fine, for now....

 

[roadkill]

pic link?

tdavis,

please check your photo link, I'd like to see your setup!

 

[tdavis]

sorry, but the machine serving up my pics has moved, and it will never go back on the net as it was before. You can thank Code Red and Microsoft for that (no, my machine wasn't infected - that stupid worm put management/network security on a high alert at work, which means webservers on machines are probably dead..)

Like riffman said, I'm glad I'm not him. The problem really only exists with the rear drive shaft.

 

[tdavis]

Ok, try here for the pics.

I'm not 100% positive I'll leave them there.

 

[BislamJoe]

Just a thought after reading the driveshaft issues: Could you make/have made like a telescoping shaft of some kind? Or am I just ignorant and is that impossible, been done, what?

 

[RockRanger]

Originally posted by BislamJoe
Just a thought after reading the driveshaft issues: Could you make/have made like a telescoping shaft of some kind? Or am I just ignorant and is that impossible, been done, what?

All driveshafts are telescoping. They can change length do a certain degree depending on how longthe slip yoke is. I am guessing that most stoke ones are 4-5 inches long in slip. However if you leave your shaft stock and spring over the back of the explorer you lower the diff 4-5 inches( howevermuch you lifted it. To then get the drive shaft to bolt up you pull the slip yoke out. By doing this there may be only 1" of slip left in it so when the whole axle drops the driveshaft needs to lengthen and if the slip yoke isn't long enough it will come apart like it did for tom.

Hey tom don't worry its not that bad off a drop off

Matt

 

[Sandy]

tdavis,

Looks good, but the track bar mount looks a little below the rest of the work.
Just a thought, how about taking a piece of 2 x 5 or 6" sq tubing and cut to fit frame, weld alround and mount with safety bolts if necessary. Cut the lower part of the box tubing at an angle to allow for movement with axle and drill necessary hole to mount the track bar.
I am thinking it should work well, a little over kill but like horse power there can never be too much.

Great Job on the conversation, I wish mine was further along.

Have you had any problems with articulation, like front end diff interferring with the cross member ?

Tnx for the picture.

 

[tiessen]

I had to cut away my crossmember and weld in a flat bar to brace it. I also had to modify my header that crosses to the passenger side because it rubbed. I also had to modify my transmission gear cable and select lever on the outside of the tranny (I actually ripped the select lever off with my driveshaft).