Solid axle ?'s

I have decided to skip the lift kits and go with the solid axle swap. I am in the planning stages of the swap. I would like to lift it to about 4 or 5 inches. I Know a guy that builds and modifies 79 Broncos. He sold me a Dana 44 out of a 79 Bronco and told me he can get me every part of the 79 Bronco suspension for cheap. Is this a reverse rotation 44? I am wondering if anyone can help me, by making a list of parts or telling me what I would need. Should I go with leafs or Coils in the front? Do I need the radius arms, Coil brackets? How would I get it to be about 4 or 5 inches all the way around? How would i get the most flex? Any advice would be greatly helpful.

 

[tdavis]

I now know what the magic cut number is.

8" is too much.
6 3/8" is too much.

6" is the magic cut number for a 78-79 d44, f150/bronco. It will make it a EB axle on the passenger side, and leave it F150/Bronco on the driver side.

This number is according to dutchman axles.

78-79 d44 axle, spline to u-joint length - 32"
eb length - 26"
my length - 25 5/8"

missed it by THAT much.

I'd suggest before anyone cuts another axle, double check this numbers.. I'm still not 100% positive on them.

 

[tdavis]

Some more pics:

http://dweeb.lbl.gov/~tdavis/pics/solid

More tips:

1)the bolt/hole that's a perfect reference point is also the lower transmission crossmember bolt on the passenger side. You'll have to modify or fab up a new transmission cross member, if your going to use full size bronco radius arms. Those things are *LONG*. How long? how about almost 4" longer than Superlift extended radius arms!

2) There's a bolt on the drivers side, that also holds the tranmission crossmember. This one is 1/2" too close! So I just drilled a new hole in the radius arm bracket, and presto! Everything measured up correct - both sides, 69 1/2" inches from the rear axle to the radius arm bushing. So, you drill 3 more holes - one hole has to go through the frame twice (it's boxed somewhat at the point.) Get yourself a titantium drill bit for those suckers..

See the pics for what I'm talking about.

 

[tiessen]

No it's possible to run full width without hitting anything.

The 6 3/8" cut --- THIS IS IMPORTANT --- someone needs to verify this number. This is what the shop told me they cut the axle shaft down to make the fullsize the same length as the longside EB shaft. BUT someone should verify this. The short side of the fullsize is about 1/4" or so longer than the EB so the total axle width will be slightly wider. The reason I cut this much was to ensure if I broke an axle shaft I could just order one from Warn etc instead of having to cut one down again. BUT someone needs to size up a fullsize shaft with an EB shaft to verify the length difference!

Cheers
Dale

ps. for those doing 5.5" rear axles, look into swapping F150 brakes onto your 8.8" instead of buying the Dutchman. The holes on the axle (backing plate) are the same for the F150 and Explorer (not Ranger though, smaller bearing size) and you should be able to swap late model F150 discs without modification.

 

[Oknut]

Why not have the axle a few inches wider then stock ? that way you stay on the ground, COG is way better..

There has been a little bit of talk about going with coils or leafs.. To tell you the truth, if I were you I would go with the coils. Because the explorer frame is way different then a truck frame. someone was talking about getting 6 inch lift leafs for the front. with a spring over that would give you way more lift then I have and I don't think your planning on doing that, unless you are planning on not not doing a SOA.. If you want leafs then call me, because it won't be as easy.. atleast with coils you got the buckets. I actually moved my axle forward over 3 inches so I wouldn't rub on my rear fender, but I still am. Someone was talking about leaf not flexing as good as coils, I would like to show them that this is not true..

Now I would like to help you more, but I have had a little bit to much to drink tonight and if what I wrote didn't make any sence then write me an e-mail and maybe I can explain it to you a little better in the morning.

take care and good luck with the conversion,
Knut

 

[NIGHTRANGER5.0]

tdavis

Do you plan to incorporate a trans/radius arm x-member?

 

[tiessen]

Thomas, sorry about the lack of exact data. I was just passing along the info 'my shop' gave me when they cut the axle. 3/8" shouldn' t be a problem though. Worst case scenario, you bust an axle and order an EB and shave a 1/4" off the splines. I know the EB guys do the exact same thing on the L side to fit an F150 axle shaft in the EB axle....wait a minute. I bet the whole axle width is 6 3/8" narrower with the 3/8" coming from the drivers side. I wonder if my shop cut down 6" or 6 3/8"? Either way, you and I should be OK in the event of axle breakage.

Cheers
Dale

ps. Now someone else check this measurement to triple check it. And then we collectively do a writeup on the swap to answer the many ques that keep coming in.

 

[A91EBexplorer4x4]

74 bronco D44

is a 74 Bronco D44 good to use i see alot of you talking about using newer ones and cuting them but the older ones are alot narrower and seem less complicated to install. well im looking at a 74 D44 bronco axle to swap in. any tips on this older axle? its the only one i found in my area. they want 200 bucks for it and it has hubs and everything but it is missing the pass. side rad. arm.
what do you guys think? the older 74 model will work fine? what year did they change from drum to disk was it 76-77?
thanks Howard

 

[Sandy]

The 74 Bronco D44 will work ! It is a drum brake axle setup and it has a pinion that is on the lower part of the differential. The 78-79 Bronco version are wider and require cutting to fit but you end up with disc brakes, a high pinion (ground clearance), and when cutting you can cut the axle a couple of inches wider for more stability.

$200 buck is about the price around NE for a good axle but consider paying a little for teh a newer version and cutting to fit; it should be better in the long run.

Good Luck,
Keep the forum informed of your progress.

 

[tdavis]

My 2 Cents...

I'd keep looking for a 78/79 fullsize bronco/F150, so you can get everything.

I know it can be a royal pain - but it's better to be a pain now, then in a year, complaining to everyone about how bad the axle you got was.

Just kidding. The 78/79 is a RR, HP (high pinion); pre-77 is a standard cut, LP (low pinion). The HP lowers the angle of the driveline, making less vibration and problems. HP also gives you more ground clearance, making it a lower chance of hitting something.

And to think a d44, HP, RC just showed up in the Stockton, CA pick-n-pull...

 

[Oknut]

Hey,

The bottom line is that the 1979 beonco is rated one of the top ten 4x4's ever..

That's actually the rig that i'm building right now.. and it's gonna be my work horse to trailor my explorer around. I'm done with the engine and i'm looking at buying a 6 inch lift and a 3 inch body lift for it. and some 38 inch tires.

Something else that I don't understand, is why you are all cutting down your axles, the wider they are the better. I left mine the full size. and I don't have to worry about tipping over because it's so wide, what's the point in getting a dana 44 if your just gonna cut it down to the stock width.

I went 4xing today with a bunch of jeeps.. they all had 35's and were locked up, but they couldn't go anywhere near as many places as I went. and I kept getting dirty looks.. Maybe I won't build a willis after all.

Well hey, good luck with the project, i'm here to help., so if you have a question, e-mail me and i'll be glad to help.

 

[tdavis]

another update..

After a night of putting the axle housing back together (we got burns, we got blisters, we got cuts), I got to finally get to fit the axle on the truck!

Ya hoo!

Check these out:

http://dweeb.lbl.gov/~tdavis/pics/solid/jun-16/solid-134.jpg

http://dweeb.lbl.gov/~tdavis/pics/solid/jun-16/solid-135.jpg

http://dweeb.lbl.gov/~tdavis/pics/solid/jun-16/solid-136.jpg

[ note - I purposely did not inline these images - they are huge! ]

Ok, the front end is supported by the red jacks under the axle. The front, yellow/white jacks are there for safety - and no vehicle weight is on them when I took those pics.

Only problem I'm having - the coils are kinda bent forward.. I'm not 100% sure it's right. I think part of it is my simple coil spacers adapters. You remove the stud from the TTB's, and get some 2"x4"x3/8" square tubing. cut, drill, bolt the stud in. It's flat, and I think that's the problem. But you know what? For what it cost.. I'm happy!

But, I like the axle position. The front driveshaft hits it dead on and is almost straight to the transfer case, there's alot of clearance, there's plenty of flex (I was jacking it up by the axle, and it took almost a foot of jacking to get it off the front frame jacks!)

We had fun - no trackbar, so you could push the truck side to side.

Only problem(s) left:

cutting trackbar, draglink, tie rods down to size. (tie rod - just cut 6-3/8" off.. the other two.. uhm.. got to measure three times, cut once..)

Then I start putting it all back together. Getting there - slowly, but surely!

Oh, and oknut - as for cutting down the axle - your correct, wider is better, BUT, some of the trails around here don't allow fullsize width vehicles on them. Also, I wasn't interested in replacing my rear axle with a full-size axle too. If was going to do that, I'd not cut them down.

Besides, cutting down an d44 axle housing is an experience you'll never forget. The damn axle tubes on 78/79 d44 are .030" larger than the holes they come out of! You really, really got to get the housing cherry red to get the tubes out and back in.

 

[Oknut]

looks great and keep up the good work..

What kinda coils do you have under it ?

where are you working on this thing ? There are mass axles in the background.. If you ask me, that's what heaven would look like... lol

You know full size rear axles come cheap.. even a dana 70.. and they are very easy to install.

 

[Derrick C.]

Yeah no doubt!!
You wouldn't by chance have another D44 laying around would ga? I'm guessing not but it never hurts to ask!

 

[tdavis]

studdex - I refuse to answer that question, simply because I don't have the time to retrieve any of the ones I know of.

Whoops, guess I answered it..

I know of where there's 4 different d44's; 2 are from 78/79 Bronco's (one complete, one semi complete, the semi complete I've seen, it also has everything else), one early 70's d44 (f100 4x4, drum), one early bronco d44 (drum).

If you want to do road trip, I can tell you where to go to get these.. I just don't have any time till after the 4th of july to do anything else.

oknut - they are the superlift 5.5" lift coils (the 450lbs/inch I believe). I'm working on it at a differential gear shop. The shop owner loves mustangs, and buys gear housings. He wants to also put a 302 in the navajo.. I keep telling him, let's get the solid axle done first.

He said the same thing about a d60.. and he's got a few of those laying around! (just no d44, pumpkin on the drivers side, HP, RC)

 

[Chad Summers]

Ok guys, what does everyone think of fabtech's solid axle conversion? (www.setstr8.com) I think its very pricy but eliminates all the other hastles from what I can see? (that and I already have a d44 and ford 9in from a 76 eb) I don't know what kind of travel this kit would have though. I'm only wanting to run 33's on mine.. (94, stock for now) also, how much trouble is it going to be to put in the tcase from this eb? (dana 20 I believe?) Any comments, suggestions, etc? Thanks

 

[tiessen]

"cutting trackbar, draglink, tie rods down to size. (tie rod - just cut 6-3/8" off.. the other two.. uhm.. got to measure three times, cut once..)"

In response, here is my steering setup.

Cut draglink 6 3/8" and rethread. Remove tierod end and adjusting sleeve from Dana35 TTB and use to bolt to pitman arm (the 79 bronco draglink end is larger). Cut and thread the 79 draglink to receive the Dana35 tierod end now on the pitman arm. Voila! Simple, yet effective (and you don't have to reim your pitman arm which is a bad idea).

You could also use your other adjustment sleeve and cut and thread your panhard rod to make it adjustable, just in case you swap coils, etc.

As for the coils, the mounts I made moved the coils back an inch to straighten things up.

 

[tdavis]

Hey, I didn't think about using the d35 tie rod on the pitman arm.. Great idea!

I'll have to do some looking around about getting the rods cut down, and threaded. Shouldn't be difficult to get done.

 

[A91EBexplorer4x4]

Ideas...

Keep posting all the ideas and the ways that you have done yours so it will help those of us about to do it. should start mine this month and finish some time mid july i think.

 

[Randall]

Hey Tom, I was looking at your coil spring curve, and it looks like all you may need to fix it are some 6 degree C bushings. Should help anyway. I have already ordered mine

 

[Joe93]

Its lookin Good So far. I can't wait to see the end result. Are you the first one on the site to do this to a two door?