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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
If you're not planning on going through the fender wells, I highly recommend it. Just remove the rubber splash guard and you'll have great access to the plugs.
If your truck is a GA truck (like mine are) there shouldn't be a rust issue to deal with. I prefer to jack the front wheels off the ground as high as possible and support the truck on safety stands. Then remove the front tires and splash guards. This way I can work comfortably. The spark plugs shouldn't take very long to change (30mins maybe). Changing the spark plug wires will take some time. Do them one at a time and be sure to route then the same way the old ones were routed. That way you wont get mixed up and you'll keep the wires away from the hot exhaust headers.
Thanks, that doesn't seem too hard for an old man. I had a code, #7 plug misfire, a few weeks ago and I broke the boot and had to use an impact gun to remove the plug.
An impact is actually a pretty safe way to remove stubborn spark plugs w/out breaking them. The rattling back and forth is better than applying a lot of torque. Just don't use an impact to install the new plugs. Screw them in by hand and apply about 20 ft pounds of torque to tighten them. I also like to put a dab of anti-seize on the plug's threads, though with steel plugs in a cast iron head I guess it's not technically necessary. Be sure to use dielectric grease in the plug boots to seal out moisture and to prevent the boots from sticking to the plugs in the future.
Tip: Always twist a boot before trying to pull it off to prevent from tearing it.