Spark plug replacement - 2010 Eddie Bauer 4.6L V8 3 valve

[firemanvin]

My 2010 Eddie Bauer now has around 106,000 miles on it and despite the fact that the engine runs as sweet as a nuclear reactor on a submarine, I probably need to change the sparkplugs; whereas they should have been changed at 90,000. I normally get rid of my vehicles by this point in time, but I just can't bring myself to part with this truck. Sounds weird, but this old gal has become a good friend to both my wife and I. Anyway, here's my questions;

- I've been hearing some horror stories about the 4.6l v8 3V having deep plugs that get stuck due to carbon buildup on the extension portion of the plug. I have been reading about all kinds of monkeying around to get the plugs out and the proper way to replace them. However, it seems like a lot of what I am reading goes to 2008 with regard to the problematic 4.6l v8 3v engines. Is this still an issue with the 2010, or did Ford do something to remediate it by 2010? I'm asking because I normally work on my own vehicles to the extent I can, but If the risk of breaking even one plug is imminent, then I really don't want to be bothered with the whole process of having to buy the extraction tool and go through the gyrations to get the stuck bottom half (halves) out.

- Provided I do the plugs myself, any recommendations on the best replacement plugs? What is the gap? What are the new plugs torqued to?

Thanks.

 

[94Eddie]

The early 4.6L 3V engines had two piece spark plugs. By 2010 Ford replaced them with a one piece design that doesn't have the breaking issue of the two piece design. I would use the Ford OEM plug for your model year as a replacement.

I understand the attachment to your Explorer. IMO, it is the last model of Explorer that has some serious off road capability while being utilitarian, well appointed and has a robust drive line with a V8. Also, 2010 was the last year the Explorers used a version the F150 chassis and drive train. I opted to buy a 2010 Mountaineer over the 2011 and up 5th gen models for these reasons.

 

[firemanvin]

The early 4.6L 3V engines had two piece spark plugs. By 2010 Ford replaced them with a one piece design that doesn't have the breaking issue of the two piece design. I would use the Ford OEM plug for your model year as a replacement.

I understand the attachment to your Explorer. IMO, it is the last model of Explorer that has some serious off road capability while being utilitarian, well appointed and has a robust drive line with a V8. Also, 2010 was the last year the Explorers used a version the F150 chassis and drive train. I opted to buy a 2010 Mountaineer over the 2011 and up 5th gen models for these reasons.

Thanks for the quick response. Nice hearing from someone that understands where I'm coming from. What you are saying is exactly my point. It's the very last year that the Explorer is actually a real truck; a true SUV and not a CUV. Back in 2010 I bought it with the class III/IV trailering package with the anticipation of buying a travel trailer, but due to one family issue after another it never happened. Ten years and 106,000 miles later I finally ordered my 20 foot 5,000+ pound 2021 Jayco TT and a new Explorer just is not going to cut it. And living on Long Island, there are plenty of outer beach opportunities. Technically, crossovers really don't belong on the outer beach (you need to be able to switch into full 4WD high or low). The Explorer does great on the beach without a trailer. I'm hoping it can hold it's own pulling the trailer out too. I'm also hoping she'll do well on her first long trip with the trailer; 250 miles from Long Island to Lake George.

 

[shucker1]

Ford Tech Makuloco does an excellent video on the 5.4.

You should be able to find one for the 4.6

 

[94Eddie]

One thing I strongly recommend is doing a pan drop, drain, filter replacement and refill of the transmission if you haven't already. Then do another pan drop and refill within 5k miles. This will replace about 75%-80% of the transmission fluid. Then do a pan drop and filter change about ever 40k miles thereafter. This is especially warranted if you are now towing a 5k+ lb trailer. Don't flush the transmission as this can cause more issues than a pan drop. Also, the 6R80 transmission has a temperature sensor that won't circulate the transmission fluid to the cooler or radiator until it is full up to operating temperature. Doing a flush on it without the transmission being fully up to operating temperature will not exchange the transmission fluid at all. It will just dump the new fluid directly into the waste bucket. Also, don't blieve Ford when they say transmission fluid (or any fluid for that matter) in any of their vehicles is "lifetime." All this does is assure a steady stream of repair work for them after the warranties are expired.

You should also change out all your fluids that haven't be replaced recently. Coolant, transfer case, front/rear differentials, brake fluid and power steering fluid. This will greatly decrease the odds of failure for these components and systems as the miles rack up. Especially so since you will now be towing a heavy load. It might not be a bad idea to replace the radiator cap from the 20 psi OEM part with a 16 psi one. Many here have done this and I don't recall anyone having issues from doing it. The theory for doing this is that the lower pressure puts less strain on cooling system components and this, in turn, helps prevent things like radiator failure etc. I have been running a 16 psi cap for several months now with zero issues. After this summer I will know for sure if there are issues with doing the swap. I am keeping the old 20 psi cap in the console for the summer just in case I do have an issue. I wouldn't be surprised that running such a high pressure is why the OEM style radiators in the Explorers/Mountaineers fail so often.

 

[Bazz270]

Hi

2 years ago replaced (Acc. ford workshop manual and Spark plugs TSB-step by step document) spark plugs and ignition coils too (just for a case).used OEM motorcraft parts only from local dealers and from rockauto.
Bought motorcraft carburetor cleaning liquid and anti seize paste acc. to ford TSB...

I believe there is another options for carbon cleaning liquids but i like to use manufacturer recommended tools and materials only


You will need 9/16' deep socket and torque wrench (cant remember exact torque value).

Also....There is no gap to adjust.


Zero problem with my 4.6 X today...

 

[Explorer_PL]

you don't need to look for 4.6 tutorials. The heads are the same, just watch the 5.4 videos.
But on 2010 you should be ok.

 

[ThunderbirdSport]

Always a good midea to check gap on new plugs.

After '08, somewhere in there, the 3v plugs are all 1 piece. Just use Motorcraft suggested replacement for your model year. When I did mine I dabbed a wee bit of antiseize on the plugs and then ran em down by hand, and got 'em just right. The only ignition issues I had since was when the cheap **** coils went bad and I then bit the bullet, replaced 'em with Motorcrafts, all 8. Ouch...but it runs strong as hell now though.