spark plug replacement

[cfd911]

:fire: HI GROUP,

just wanted to add for you do it yourselfers, if your going to change spark plugs yourself as i did on my 2001 4.0l 70, 000 mi

do yourself a favor!!!! get plugs AND wires it will be much easier in the long run, i used motorcraft parts just to be sure $115.00

be patient and take your time, drivers side not bad , passenger side A BEAR TO DO some useful ideas that helped me ...

1. do 1 wire and plug at a time, AND don't insert the wires into the holders until all the wires and plugs are done...

2. spray your plug socket with alittle silicone spray inside.

3. only do it with the engine cold , my 2001 had aluminum heads you could damage heads if too hot when replacing.

4 you can put a drop of oil on the new plug threads or anti seize to help in installation.

5. un bolting the trans tube may help on passenger side.

6. remove the r frt tire ( it definatly helped me) getting that last plug done ,

AND TAKE YOUR TIME DON T RUSH and use hand tools to install the plugs!!!!!
good luck i hope this is helpful.......

 

[pfeffer1728]

thanks, should come in handy this summer...how'd the motorcraft work for you?

 

[ExplorerDMB]

antiseeze isn't for help in installation - it's to keep your plugs from rusting to your heads (which a few people run into)

-Drew

 

[cfd911]

not bad thanks for asking have a good one

 

[cfd911]

actually anti seize is used when installing components to prevent galling that s what it s used for ....

 

[cfd911]

actually anti seize is used when installing components to prevent galling that s what it s used for .... galling is when 2 metals bind together

ie steel threads from a spark plug and an aluminum head....

 

[Aussie Explorer]

It’s used for both, with stainless threads 7/10 times you will get them done up but the chances of getting them off isn’t good, and if it’s been siting in a engine for 70,000 miles you will have #### all chance of getting them out.

I work in the marine industry and nothing pisses you off more then when you go to replace/ repair stuff and the bolts have been put in without antisize and sure as **** the last one if not all of them sizes and it’s in a right C**t of a place and the next 2 hrs are spent trying to cut it out.

3. Only do it with the engine cold , my 2001 had aluminum heads you could damage heads if too hot when replacing.> You will also burn the chit out of you hands LOL

TAKE YOUR TIME DON T RUSH> Very good advices if you get pissed just take 5 and come back to it.

 

[cfd911]

thank you very much for your input i appreciate your response i do believe that EXPLOERE DMB and i are coming to the same conclusion just a different way of getting there.

i believe YES it is good to use anti seize , it will help in installation/removal of plugs,
i mean we ve all tried to install dry plug threads into a dry threaded hole right?

and it just doesn t go in easily some time so then we 2nd guess ourselves when we re struggling
IT DOESN T FEEL RIGHT, DID I CROSS THREAD IT? ECT ECT ,
MY POINT WAS TO GIVE ALITTLE ADVICE , NOT TO ARGUE THE FACT WHY TO USE IT,
MY POINT WAS IF IT HELPS USE IT ,

thanks for your input joe

 

[UtahX]

thanks, should come in handy this summer...how'd the motorcraft work for you?

Just had the plugs/wires (Motorcraft) replaced as well. Runs very nice.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

...Anti-seeze is just good to use - end of story

-Drew

 

[hal_94]

94 4.0 OHV Easy

The anti-seize seems to help when putting them in--little lubrication always is good.. and hopefully, when I go to change mine again in 50K, it'll be easy then too.

I just changed mine on my 94 4.0 OHV, 147K (and i think original spark plugs--but they were in really good condition).

All it takes on mine is a 5/8" spark plug socket, a very short (3 inch max) extension, and the ratchet. Oh, and pull the airbox out of the way--you can get to the passenger side easily from the top (though going in through the passenger wheel well can help when getting the boot off--just turn your tires left, and slide on in--no need to take the wheel well cover out!).

I'm not sure how long it took--no more than 2 hours, I guess--probably a lot less if I didnt have to put half of it back together again to start it long enough to turn the tires =)

 

[Abom]

This is my first V6 engine, and damn, I didn't think spark plugs were such a big deal !

Guess that's just my ignorance from owning an in-line 4 for so long

 

[Abom]

.... Ok, so I NEVER want to do that again.

 

[Alpha_Phlex]

Lol, I just did mine after replacing my + cable. I figured since I had the air box off I might as well do it and get it over with. What a PITA. The front drivers side was stuck solid. Wouldn't budge. Left it and moved on to the rest of the ones on the drivers side. These came out with minimal effort compared to the first one. After finishing those I went back and tried the first one again. Finally got it to break free.

Aside from all of the crazy contortions that I wasn't aware that my arm was even capable of the passenger side plugs came out with relative ease. None of them were stuck like the one on the drivers side. Made sure to use anti-sieze on all of them.

The plugs looked like they were never changed. But only one had oil on it. The truck has about 220,000 miles on it. I was actually amazed to see only one plug had oil on it. Replaced with Autolite platinums gapped 0.54.

I didn't have enough to replace the wires but I'll do it when I get paid, and than it's time to replace the Radius Arm bushings. [Sarcasm]Yay![/Sarcasm]