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Spark Plug Replacement

rp23g7

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November 1, 2006
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City, State
washington
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 ford explorer
Hi Guys,

It is time to replace my plugs on my 99 Explorer. 1999 SOHC 4.0

I let the Dealer do it the first time.

I had them do a full fluid replacement at 30,000, 60,000, Oil/Trans/Diff/front and rear axle Spark plugs etc, covered under warranty, so didnt have to pay.

So at 106,000 I am doing the plugs and wires. I havent tried just yet, just looked at it.

Should I take the wheels off and get to them through the fenders? I can see how you can get to some of them from under the hood.
 



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For the passenger side i took my wheel off and the plastic cover. Driver side is just straight forward. At leas on my 4.0.
 






I did my OHV without going through the fender just get a universal and a few different extensions and a stool to get up in the engine bay you should be fine.
 






Drivers side on the SOHC is a piece of cake. It's the passenger side that is a PITA. Save yourself some headache and go through the wheel well...much easier than getting at it from above.

Make sure you replace your wires too . Use Motorcraft plugs and wires, avoid bosch plugs and autozone crap wires... Don't forget the dielectric grease either!
 






I agree it is a pain unless your 8 foot tall with an extra joint on your arms below your elbow!
In absence of the above- go through the wheel arch and save the headache-good luck!
 






Driver's side is easy. Passenger side is tight as hell. I was able to go from above but I'm also 6'5" :thumbsup:

I also removed my alternator (since I had to change it twice I became an expert at pulling it off in under 5 min ;)
 






Don't forget to check the gap on the new plugs (never trust 'pre-gapped' plugs) and use anti-seize.
 






Agreed with the above opinions. Go through the wheel well. I changed mine and my brothers and for me, I ended up with less cuts and bruises when I went through the wheel well on both sides.
 






I also removed my alternator (since I had to change it twice I became an expert at pulling it off in under 5 min ;)

Just did mine it failed coming home from the mall changed it out in less than 10min in front of autozone! lol
 












Ditto on the install

Side note, our O'Reilly doesn't carry Motorcraft wires, they're special order but the Borg-Warner are OEM quality work the same and are usually the manufacturer for OEM parts, good wires, not a single hiccup since I put them in with my Motorcraft plugs. Good luck.
 






DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE. That's the quickest way to rip the threads out of the head.

The system is designed with a specific torque spec selected to get the optimum clamping force on the joint as wella s resist loosening due to vibration. Anti-seize lubricates the threads, reducing the torque needed for any given clamping force. Reduced clamping force yields a reduction in the resistance to loosening.

Completely unnecessary, and not recommended by Ford. In fact, the service manual specifically states NOT to use any lubricants on the threads.

I did mine at 100,000 miles for the first time. I did them stone-cold. I had zero issues with the plugs being stuck in the heads.
 






I used Anti-seize!:eek:

But I also use it on my Bike and my car.
I cant recall ever having a plug come loose.
Can you explain how the threads will be ripped from the head?
 






Did mine last month , piece of cake! , did take the passenger tire off and got it done.
 






I used Anti-seize!:eek:

But I also use it on my Bike and my car.
I cant recall ever having a plug come loose.
Can you explain how the threads will be ripped from the head?

Yes, lots of people use it and don't have issues.... But that doesn't make it the proper way to do it either. back when aluminum heads were new, and spark plug coatings were inadequate to protect against galvanic corrosion between the two different metals, yes, using anti-seize was a necessity. Those days disappeared with the distributor cap.

Lubricating the threads can cause them to be stripped when trying to come to torque because the lubricant allows greater clamping force for any given torque. 50 ft*lbs of torque dry will result in a particular clamping force. 50 ft*lbs on a lubricated thread will result in a much higher clamping force. If the (softer than the steel plug's threads) Aluminum threads in the head can take the stress, then good, but that's not always the case, which results in stripped plug threads... Never a fun thing to fix.

Yes, lots of people do it for all the wrong reasons. But that doesn't make it right. (I mean, a hundred-thousand lemmings a year can;t be wrong, can they?? ;) )
 






Makes sense but I think it depends on the manufacturer as well some recommend it and I guess some dont.
 






Makes sense but I think it depends on the manufacturer as well some recommend it and I guess some dont.

Absolutely.... If recommended by the OEM, absolutely use it. Our Explorers are not one of them though.
 






For the passenger side i took my wheel off and the plastic cover. Driver side is just straight forward. At leas on my 4.0.

I second this approach. Take passenger wheel off. take splash guard panel off and you have a clear view and access. I have a socket wrench with a folding handle to bend in the desired direction ( a definite must have for working on the Ford).

BTW any opinions on which plug wires to use? Motorcraft are on the higher cost side but from what I read are considered mid range in performance. Don't trust the wires you find at kragen or autozone. Also don't want to spend more that $50 on a set. I have been able to find Motorcraft for about 50 from rockauto.
 






Look up

Borg Warner, the price is lower than the Motorcraft, but as was explained to me, they're basically the same thing. They weren't cheapo store brand, they're an OEM manufacturer. They looked a lot like the stock plug wires that came on my truck and obviously were in much better shape. I would just get those. They're easier to find in a local auto parts store as well. I would have had to wait days for the wires if I had ordered them and my plugs were shot.
 



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I used Napa gold wires I am not sure if they are any better or not but I was there picking up the air filter so I said why not they look much better made than the Bosch set they had at Autozone.
 






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