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Speed Bleeders

bunyun76

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Joined
September 5, 2003
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City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 XLT
I had a question about speed bleeders. I am usually stuck working on my X by myself however i always have problems when it comes to bleeding the brakes. I was wondering if Speed Bleeders are actually worth the money and do they do a good job of assisting when bleeding the brake. Just curious before i purchase them for my vehicles. Thanks
 



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Never used them, but there is one problem I can see with them. If any rust particle were to flake loose and lodge itself under the check ball, it would prevent it from seating and make them useless.
 






I bought some when I was redoing my brakes. Unfortunately I never put them on. They are still sitting in my toolbox.:rolleyes:
 






If you have to bleed them alone, why not get a vacuum bleeder, or just use good ole gravity to bleed them (gravity is my bleeding method of choice)
 






Originally posted by VairKing
If you have to bleed them alone, why not get a vacuum bleeder, or just use good ole gravity to bleed them (gravity is my bleeding method of choice)

Please elaborate.
 






I second the recommendation on the vacuum bleeder. You should be able to pick it up at the local autoparts store for about $30-40.

I have used the SpeedBleeders. When they first came out, I ordered them direct from the company. I installed them on my 86 Full-size Bronco. They worked great, but I remember they were pricey. The vacuum bleeder is great because you can use it on all of your cars/vehicles (I use it on my motorcycle). Also, the vacuum bleeder can be used for other things (EGR testing, etc.)
 






WE have a nice vacuum bleeder at work but it is not perfect. There are times when it will not do the job. Speed bleaders are cool but I dont see dificulty in finding even a neighbor to pump the brakes for you.
 






Vacuum bleeders are either air (with an air compressor) or hand powered. You simply hook up the hose to the back of the bleeder valve, open the bleeder a little bit, and use the vacuum to draw fluid, until you think you have all the air out.

Gravity bleeding is where you open the master cylinder resivoir, make sure its full, and go to the wheel farthest from the MC first, and open it up a little until fluid comes. Let it run out by itself until you get a pretty good solid stream of fluid coming out, making sure to keep the MC full of fresh fluid. Once you have a good stream, close the bleeder and move on to the next farthest, and so on. Good luck!
 






You can't do the gravity method with one person though right?
 






Yes, you can...all you gotta do is wait for fluid to come out somewhat steady, and it wont drain the MC terribly quickly
 






In order to get anything to come out of the bleeders you have to depress the break though right?
 






No, as long as the lid is off the MC, and the bleeder is open, the fluid will drip out on its own. Hence "gravity" bleeding...
 






Hmmm OK I think I'm gonna use that method when I replace my calipers.
 






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I'm not sure about other X's, but I had my brakes done last week and the guy told me you do not have to bleed the brakes if you do not want to, there almost a full level when I got back in a few steps on the pedal and they were up.
 






UtahX said:
I'm not sure about other X's, but I had my brakes done last week and the guy told me you do not have to bleed the brakes if you do not want to, there almost a full level when I got back in a few steps on the pedal and they were up.
Correct..You only have to bleed the brakes if air gets into the system... During a normal brake job they never crack open a bleeder therefore no air will get introduced to the system.. So you only need to bleed the brakes whenever you open a bleeder, replaced a brake hose, line, caliper, or wheel cylinder. That and you should bleed them every 2-3 yrs to flush out the old brake fluid and fill it back up with fresh fluid. Brake fluid won't break down, but it will absorb moisture which will start corroding the bracke components from the inside out... Brake fluid is clear; it if looks dark then its time to flush it out.
 






Thanks, DeRocha
 






UtahX said:
Thanks, DeRocha
No problem... the #1 thing to remember is never ever let the brake fluid reservoir get too low.. This is only a concern when working on the brakes with an open line.. Every once in a while we hear about people starting brake jobs and just let the line drip into a can while they did the job.. Unfortunately they didn't pay attention to the brake fluid level in the reservoir and the master cylinder ran dry.. If this happens air will be trapped in the MC and will be a PITA to get out.. Often times requiring you to remove the MC and bench bleed it. So the moral of the story is keep an eye on the reservoir and keep it maxed out; otherwise you could be in for a long difficult bleed.
 









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I have a Motive Products pressure bleeder for my Focus, and it works great. Just fill it with fluid, pump it up and open the bleed screws until you've gotten all the air or old fluid out.
 






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