Spray paint

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Anybody have an Explorer with ingot silver, code UX? My 2011 is trusty but rusty even after meticulous waxing and washing.... searched for UX spray paint but not found any sites that sell...put PoR15 on all door jambs and 4 bottles touchup paint over the creases (aka supposed seams) last fall.... the 4 bottles took a crazy amount of time to paint, and was iffy at best.

Thoughts in where to get spray paint that is close in color?

 

[Jon M]

https://smile.amazon.com/PAINTSCRAT...ywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Harpy-Moto...8-5&keywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver

https://smile.amazon.com/FUSION-Ing...8-6&keywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

https://smile.amazon.com/PAINTSCRAT...ywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Harpy-Moto...8-5&keywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver

https://smile.amazon.com/FUSION-Ing...8-6&keywords=ford+touch+up+spray+ingot+silver

Thanks. Have you bought from those brands before? Limited number of reviews holds me back

 

[Jon M]

Thanks. Have you bought from those brands before? Limited number of reviews holds me back

No. I've found that no touch up paint gets good reviews. The ones I've used match well, but still only manage 3.5 stars. When it comes to sprays, you're kind of stuck with what you find.

Another option. This is the one I was considering.

PICK YOUR COLOR for FORD Automotive Touchup *OR* Spray Paint | eBay

 

[peterk9]

Anybody have an Explorer with ingot silver, code UX? My 2011 is trusty but rusty even after meticulous waxing and washing.... searched for UX spray paint but not found any sites that sell...put PoR15 on all door jambs and 4 bottles touchup paint over the creases (aka supposed seams) last fall.... the 4 bottles took a crazy amount of time to paint, and was iffy at best.

Thoughts in where to get spray paint that is close in color?

Have you tried a body shop? Years ago I had one mix up some paint for me but it wasn't a spray. Didn't ask about that.

Peter

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

No I haven't. Called a wholesale paint distributor and they wanted 90 dollars for a quart. I don't need a quart.... Good idea thou

 

[JAPeterson]

I think that the problem is going to be that no matter what you use you are not going to be satisfied with the final results. There is a art to blending the repaired section into the existing sections and it takes time to learn how to do it.

I have a couple of areas on a truck that I own that I am just going to do the whole area just so that I don't have that type of problem come up.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

I think that the problem is going to be that no matter what you use you are not going to be satisfied with the final results. There is a art to blending the repaired section into the existing sections and it takes time to learn how to do it.

I have a couple of areas on a truck that I own that I am just going to do the whole area just so that I don't have that type of problem come up.

Yep pick your poison: rust or slight color variations in the jamb. Sad this occurs after just a couple years, even with waxing the jambs etc.

 

[JAPeterson]

One problem with rust is that you really need to get rid of it and painting only hides it until it works it way through the paint. Without sanding or cutting it out there is no real way to get rid of it.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

One problem with rust is that you really need to get rid of it and painting only hides it until it works it way through the paint. Without sanding or cutting it out there is no real way to get rid of it.

Used Por15 on it. It's mitigation at best.

 

[domct203]

My running boards were a rusty mess. I sanded as much as I could, then coated them with a few coats of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, followed by a sandable autobody primer from a rattle can. I used spot putty to fill any rust creators between those primer coats, followed by automotive (Duplicolor I think) top/clear from a rattle can. I wet sanded between color coats, but not before the first clear. I again wet sanded between clear coats, finishing with a nice ‘wet’ last coat followed by a polishing compound after a week.

Granted they are just running boards, but they came out pretty darn good, way, way better than I expected. I would try this method on one of my body panels, but I would use a spray gun with my compressor for more even coverage over large areas with the color/clear coats.

Pictures don’t do it justice, but I’ll try to find some.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

My spots are like 1/4 wide by a foot long. My parents 10 explorer is almost rust free and they don't wax it.

 

[KayGee]

Most local paint supply shops (the ones that supply the collision shops in your area) should be able to mix up less than a quart and supply it in a spray can - prices will vary. I have a few in my area that are ~$30+ depending on color code. Standard colors are typically cheaper and specialty are more (and may require 1 qt min. - YMMV).

 

[15Limited]

I’ve used this paint on several vehicles and the match is pretty good...it won’t be perfect on your 2011 because of 8 years of sun/weather, but will be very close if you blend the area some.

Touch up paint | Touch Up Paint | AutomotiveTouchup

This will probably be your best option other than a good body shop mixing the paint for you.

 

[xlt03]

Try Finishmaster. There are over 200 locations in the US. They mix paint for body shops and in my area they can put it in rattle can. Of course you need the color base coat and the clear coat. You just need to provide them with paint code. Some stores will even use a optical scanner to read the paint to mix the paint. I had a 87 BMW 325 where they used scanner to read the paint. When I picked up the paint, the label read as mixed for Hyundai. It read the existing (faded) paint and came up with color that matches and produced formula. Yes, it did match the BMW.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Try Finishmaster. There are over 200 locations in the US. They mix paint for body shops and in my area they can put it in rattle can. Of course you need the color base coat and the clear coat. You just need to provide them with paint code. Some stores will even use a optical scanner to read the paint to mix the paint. I had a 87 BMW 325 where they used scanner to read the paint. When I picked up the paint, the label read as mixed for Hyundai. It read the existing (faded) paint and came up with color that matches and produced formula. Yes, it did match the BMW.

I have heard of them. I just need for the bottom inside portion of door jambs. I honestly don't care if the colors are a bit different, as they on the bottom of the car door where they are not very visible.

 

[KayGee]

I have heard of them. I just need for the bottom inside portion of door jambs. I honestly don't care if the colors are a bit different, as they on the bottom of the car door where they are not very visible.

If you don't care about color match, there is no need to go finishmaster with base/clear - just pick up a spray can of the dupli-color that is a close enough match - they may even have the exact code as UX silver is a pretty basic/standard color. You can order online or most auto parts stores should be able to order it for you.