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Sputter/Stutter and Loss of Power

So I am looking on Rockauto and they do not list a fuel pressure regulator for a 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC. Does this truck not have a fuel pressure regulator? If not, when I test for fuel pressure and if it fails, what would the problem be? If the truck does have one, where’s it located?
 



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So I am looking on Rockauto and they do not list a fuel pressure regulator for a 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC. Does this truck not have a fuel pressure regulator? If not, when I test for fuel pressure and if it fails, what would the problem be? If the truck does have one, where’s it located?

I see why,I do not have this motor and have never worked on one but here is a link to an article on the regulator.It says it is under the upper intake manifold.

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/zapi-the-fuel-pressure-regulator-on-my-99-explorer-4-0
 












Sorry I haven't posted recently. I'm cleaning the EGR valve right now. As for your tune/exaust/intake, I don't think thats the problem because my exaust is stock, tune is stock, and my intake is mostly stock.
But I have the 4.0 ohv, so we have different problems. Oh and I'm still getting about 17-18 mpg, which is normal for me.
Good luck
 






Fuel pressure test kit

Thanks for the tips sir! I saw you check the fuel pressure by buying a special tool on 2000HotRod's useful threads list. How do you check the fuel pressure regulator?

Your fuel pressure regulator is in the tank. If your pressure is good at the test valve then your regulator should be good.

. . . If the fuel pressure is off, this would cause excessive fuel consumption?
. . . Hotrod- is this the tool you used?
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

Fuel pressure problems usually result in low pressure instead of high pressure. I doubt that excessive fuel pressure is causing your high fuel consumption. Yes, that is the kit I purchased to perform my fuel pressure test.

What size is your C&L MAF sensor?

Was your Bamachips tune for the C&L MAF sensor?

When you "detuned" because of high fuel prices did you revert to a stock tune for a 55mm MAF sensor?

If you're running a tune for a 55mm MAF sensor and have a larger diameter MAF sensor installed then your PCM will "think" the airflow is much less than actual. The load calculations will be erroneous and the fuel mixture and spark advance will be wrong. The O2 sensors will detect a lean condition and the PCM will attempt to correct by adjusting the fuel trims. You may have pinging which will be detected by the knock sensor and the PCM will retard the spark timing.
 






Your fuel pressure regulator is in the tank. If your pressure is good at the test valve then your regulator should be good.



Fuel pressure problems usually result in low pressure instead of high pressure. I doubt that excessive fuel pressure is causing your high fuel consumption. Yes, that is the kit I purchased to perform my fuel pressure test.

What size is your C&L MAF sensor?

Was your Bamachips tune for the C&L MAF sensor?

When you "detuned" because of high fuel prices did you revert to a stock tune for a 55mm MAF sensor?

If you're running a tune for a 55mm MAF sensor and have a larger diameter MAF sensor installed then your PCM will "think" the airflow is much less than actual. The load calculations will be erroneous and the fuel mixture and spark advance will be wrong. The O2 sensors will detect a lean condition and the PCM will attempt to correct by adjusting the fuel trims. You may have pinging which will be detected by the knock sensor and the PCM will retard the spark timing.

well Im going to run that kit tomorrow thru the fuel pressure spout. I will post my results.

I will also be changing my fuel filter and performing various tests in your useful threads page

Yes, when I detuned it I reverted it back to completely stock. It's been detuned now for a while with no problems. This just started recently.
 






A few more things I noticed while driving to work. When slowing down to a stop light, the truck kind of fights me to stop- like the truck still wants to go. Ive had this happen to me in the past when my radiator rusted out and wasn't allowing water to flow properly through the motor. But differently to that, the truck idles at 500 rpms at a stop light once I do get her stopped. This differed from when I had a overheating issue because it would then idle at 1000RPM

The shifting is also a little delayed or rougher. I expect this since the truck isn't running like it should
 






The regulator is part of the fuel level sending unit...

I see why,I do not have this motor and have never worked on one but here is a link to an article on the regulator.It says it is under the upper intake manifold.

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/zapi-the-fuel-pressure-regulator-on-my-99-explorer-4-0

So I am looking on Rockauto and they do not list a fuel pressure regulator for a 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC. Does this truck not have a fuel pressure regulator? If not, when I test for fuel pressure and if it fails, what would the problem be? If the truck does have one, where’s it located?

There seems to be a lot of misinformation on this fuel system and the "books" in question are the service manuals written by 3rd party companies...Or Ford mechanics who apparently have not seen this 10+ year old system...

Look at the arrow in the picture below; this is the fuel pressure regulator in the Ford returnless fuel system...There is no vacuum line to this unit...Ford does include a pulse damper which DOES have a vacuum line to smooth out the pulses from the fuel pump going to the injectors...

And this is the case no matter what engine is used in the 99 Explorer...
 

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Guys I believe I found the problem. Ranger7ltr posted the following when I asked about this same problem in another thread

"Since our vehicles have metal fuel tanks and a lot of these vehicles have sat for extended periods with fuel in them rust is one of the many problems that comes to mind...

My truck sat for 2.5 years with a half tank of something you could call fuel in it but it would start to restrict the fuel filter within days of changing it...

If the fuel filter has rusty/dirty looking fuel in the inlet side when you change it, the tank is the problem here... When I started driving my Explorer, I thought the truck had gotten a watered load of fuel... The engine would not accelerate briskly, if I feathered the throttle I could get to 60- 70 mph but I couldn't speed up quickly; even the cruise control would put too much demand on the engine to keep up with a set speed...If I tried to spped up moderately quickly and didn't back off the throttle, the engine would sputter and eventually die if I held the throttle...I installed my fuel pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure and, to my amazement, watched as the pressure would decrease and then increase if I backed off the throttle...Oh and I would get the P30xx codes intermittently, letting me know that I was dropping fuel volume to the engine...

Of course I changed fuel filters; hell, I should have bought stock in the company...I couldn't go more than 2-3 months without changing a filter if I wanted to drive the truck at all and keep up with traffic...

This is what my filter would drain out the inlet side...And this is right before my 2nd fuel pump died...The "filter" on the pump is not there to actually filter small particulate but to keep out the big chunks...All of the rusty crap came through the fuel pump strainer, the fuel pump, and the fuel line supplying the inlet side of the filter... Fortunately the filter kept the lions' share of this mess inside the filter but it did cause a restriction that led to lousy driveability...And changing plugs and stuff helped to improve the performance some but it would drop off quickly...

My final solution was to buy a new tank and replace the pump since the new tanks arrival just happened when the pump decided to not run anymore; And this pump was 4 months old and brand new...BTW I am still using the same fuel pressure regulator I replaced from another sending unit last year... The original one would eventually leak fuel back into the tank at any pressure above 20 psi..."

After I replaced the fuel filter, she ran fine again. No lack of power, cruised fine. My concern is the inlet part of the filter was leaking a rust color fuel. I am afraid I might be running into what ranger7ltr did, rust in the tank. Even though it's been my DD, I guess after 11 years of having fuel in it, rust is coming up from this metal tank. Take a look at the filter. I cut her open with a hack saw. Does this look normal or is it dark from being stained from rusted fuel?

67080987.jpg


Ranger7ltr: To replace the tank, should I replace the fuel filter as well? I have a feeling it might have stuff in it as well. Also, you mentioned you replaced the FPR when you did. Where'd you find it?
 






drove it all day- seems to be good. Seems to be a little slow- but that could be in my head. Overall I think it was a clogged fuel filter but now I am concerned the tank is full of rust. I will perform more tests tomorrow

On these trucks, how good are the transmissions? Back when I got it, I installed a B&M cooler and secondary filter that uses an oil filter. So far no probs knock on wood. Truck has 128k miles
 






You know mine was doing the same thing, had bad lose of power, it would sputter and sometime die on me, sounded like it was missing and all that stuff. I did the same as you, replace the fuel filter first but later came back, replaced the O2 sensors, throttle position sensor, clean my maf, intake, airfilter, everything I could think of but it all ended up being my fuel filter. Bought one off of ebay for 22 dollars with free shipping and ran like a new car after. Oh and when I dropped my tank I didnt have any rust, the pump screen was real dirty though.
 






You know mine was doing the same thing, had bad lose of power, it would sputter and sometime die on me, sounded like it was missing and all that stuff. I did the same as you, replace the fuel filter first but later came back, replaced the O2 sensors, throttle position sensor, clean my maf, intake, airfilter, everything I could think of but it all ended up being my fuel filter. Bought one off of ebay for 22 dollars with free shipping and ran like a new car after. Oh and when I dropped my tank I didnt have any rust, the pump screen was real dirty though.

So you replaced the fuel filter, but the problem came back, then you bought an ebay $22 fuel filter and it solved all the problems?? What was this fuel filter called
 












Ah very nice. The explorer is running nicely but hell $22 isn't bad to install as "preventative" maintenance. Is all the hardware included or did you have to buy something extra
 






All hardware was included, I couldnt belive it either, I made a thread not to long ago asking the same question you did and ppl said it was the fuel but I keep buying all that **** but it ended up being the pump and another member showed me where I got get it cheap. Got to love ebay.
 






Well thank you sir I appreciate it. I will pull the trigger on this. I haven't pulled out the haynes manual yet but can you tell me where on the truck the pump is located?
 






Well thank you sir I appreciate it. I will pull the trigger on this. I haven't pulled out the haynes manual yet but can you tell me where on the truck the pump is located?

The fuel pump is inside the tank. You will either need to drop the tank or cut an access panel in the cargo floor to access it.

I believe there is a thread in the useful thread section on how to make cut the access hole.
 






The fuel pump is located...

Well thank you sir I appreciate it. I will pull the trigger on this. I haven't pulled out the haynes manual yet but can you tell me where on the truck the pump is located?

Look at the purple arrow...The pump is attached by a hose to the outlet side of the tube going out the top of the fuel sending unit...And here is the link to my pump purchase... And the electrical connections, fuel filter sock, hose, and clamps are included... All for $ 22 and change with free shipping...

Dropping the tank is not difficult; honestly I can drop mine in less than a hour since I have done it for sooo many times...I can do a procedure if you would like since we have the same truck.. You are working on a 99 Sport yes?

And the dirt on the filter sock in the tank had to come from somewhere...You might see any dirt but the garbage did not get there through the fuel so where did it come from?
 

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Look at the purple arrow...The pump is attached by a hose to the outlet side of the tube going out the top of the fuel sending unit...And here is the link to my pump purchase... And the electrical connections, fuel filter sock, hose, and clamps are included... All for $ 22 and change with free shipping...

Dropping the tank is not difficult; honestly I can drop mine in less than a hour since I have done it for sooo many times...I can do a procedure if you would like since we have the same truck.. You are working on a 99 Sport yes?

And the dirt on the filter sock in the tank had to come from somewhere...You might see any dirt but the garbage did not get there through the fuel so where did it come from?

Hey Ranger,
sorry for the delay. I didn't see this response. You said "here is the link for my pump purchase..." where's the link? :)

Do you think I should just swap the tank out or what? I agree, how did that garbage get there? Being it's a 11 year old truck, I am guessing rust! Can't think of anything else. And yes, I am working on a 99 sports 4.0 SOHC. If you could, making a procedure would be fantastic. Let me know the link for your pump. I plan on getting a tank ordered from rockauto.com maybe
 



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