SSBC disk brakes

[RON COX]

I'm looking into the rear disk brake conversion from SSBC. Does anyone have this? Rotors are from a t-bird modified to fit the X. I'm not to keen on having something that if need to be replaced that I need to go back to them. Pads are stock Ford parts. Is it worth $600 bucks? Thanks.

 

[SteveVB]

How about $379.00

Why spend the 600, you can get the rear Explorer brake kits from Currie, or Randys R&P for less than 400- 379.00 I think, and you can get a discount through Randy with this site, so even lower.

It is a Ford product so it uses stock parts so replacements wont be hard to find and the kit is complete, sans e- brake cables.

Have fun.

 

[CoryL]

There is no point in buying the stuff from Currie either when you can find it in a junkyard.

All you need are the disc brake backing plates, the rotors, pads and the calipers and some new brake lines.

You could get the brakelines and backing plates from the junkyard for easily under $75.

Then new pads, rotors and calipers from your favorite autoparts store.

 

[RON COX]

I was told the axle flanges and the way the bearing was retained were not the same and that it wouldn't work. I found a complete 8.8 but the yard wants $800! They are such a rip off.

 

[CoryL]

There is a write up on how to do this in the Tech area of this website I believe.

 

[Alec]

Yup, there's both an axle swap article as well as a brake conversion article. Use the middle pull-down menu at the top of every forum page to go to "explorer tips", then use the menu there.

 

[410Fortune]

If you have an 91-94 Explorer with rear drum brakes you can bolt on rear discs from a 95+ Explorer.

Read Brett's article posted here on how to do it.

Thats it!

VERY effective.

The reason a good 3.73 or 4.10 disc brake 8.8 goes for $700+ at the junk yard is because they are in high demand (Jeep's & us) and the yards are trying to make back the $2500 they had to pay at auction for that totalled Explorer.


There are some "issue's" regarding the proper porportioning for rear discs.
You can "Adjust" the pushrod that goes into the brake booster (comes to the master from the pedal) by turing it in and out, out will send more pressure to the rear.
This is covered in the article.

Now the way hydraulic pressure is sent to drum brakes is different from the way it is sent to discs. If you do not have them adjusted right you can lock up the rear (or activate the RABS) too easy and put yourself in serious danger in a panic brake situation.

I have rear discs (entire rear axle from a 97 AWD) on my 88 BII. I had to back off the amount of pressure going to the rears after the conversion because after my initial adjustment they were locking up too easy.

It has been rumored that you can simple use the master cylinder from a rear disc braked Mustang or Explorer in order to get the correct proportioning and pressure. I have not tried this yet, the rear disc Explorer's have 4WABS which will not work with my truck (without mod's) The master from a Mustang might be just the ticket.

Ford Motor Sports sells and adjustable proportioning vavle just for this purpose.
This is the route I think I am going to take...just a little pricey.

There is some VERY interesting information about rear disc conversions on some of the Toyota Off road boards (thanks LC crowd!!!!!) I just cant find the link....

 

[RON COX]

I must have overlooked Brett's article. Thanks.