Steering on solid axle swap

I am gathering all the nessicary parts for putting a dana 60 up front in my 2000 ranger. I am getting a dana 60 and all the suspension stuff off a 79 bronco, radius arms coil buckets ect. and the shock towers from an f250(fabritech is making an adapter for me that will use all this stuff on the dana 60.) I think I have all that ironed out. I am lost on the steering however. I will get the perfomance unlimited tie rod and drag link stuff as per the excellent solid axle swap post.
My question is what about the rest of the steering? I assume I will need the manual steering box from the donor bronco. But what about the pitman arm?
Also I dont know much about manual steering in general, I have always had power steering. Is it just manual box to ? to pitman arm to ? to the tie rod assembly?
Basically can someone please tell me what I need for a whole new steering setup. everything between the drag link/tierod deal to the box. Also what about the box to the wheel.
Thanks in advance!

 

[CoryL]

First off, unless the D60 was swapped into the Bronco, you don't have one. More than likely you have a D44. D60s never came standard in a Bronco.

Not sure on the steering for a newer Ranger. Might look to swap a power steering box from a pre-98 Ranger in there somehow.

Then you could get a pair of D44 hysteer arms and be done. Check out this link for a better idea. http://www.avalancheengr.com/parts/steering/high_steer_dana44_heim.htm

Also, you know how much lift you are going to have to run? It's going to be A LOT because of the fact that the frame pretty much runs straight back, unlike the pre-98s where it tapers up near the engine compartment.

Just letting you know!

 

[jaysend5.0]

Oops that was rather poorly worded wasnt it. the dana 60 is not from the bronco.
Hmm I was under the impression that this swap couldnt be done with power steering. too much stuff in the way, how would a pre 98 power box help? I dont think it is all that different from what I got now. Maybe I could just move the stuff I have.
As far as lift goes, I wont know for sure until I do a trial fit with the measuring tape. I want to do around 6" Do you think that is possible? I dont mind going higher, just not the preference.
Thanks CoryL!

 

[RFR2212]

Originally posted by jaysend5.0
Hmm I was under the impression that this swap couldnt be done with power steering. too much stuff in the way, how would a pre 98 power box help?

I'm pretty darn sure, that since ya got IFS up front, you also have rack and pinion steering. You'll have to get rid of that crap, and run a box similar to the 97 or earlier rangers, or 94 or earlier explorer setup. Then ya can do the pitman arm etc..
Pete

 

[jaysend5.0]

Oh I get it, rack and pinion doesnt have a box?.?
And thus nothing to turn the pitman arm.
So would it be as simple as getting the box and all the stuff down to the pitman arm. Will I need to change any wiring or any crud like that.

Also On the topic of the axle swap has anyone actually done a SAS in an IFS ranger? What do you guys think will be the smallest lift that I can get away with on it.

Thanks again
sorry about the questions, but I have to learn somehow.

 

[CoryL]

I reckon a 6" lift won't be enough.

I would imagine that 8" minimum with some decent fender trimming would work out alright. The problem is your frame. Take a look at yours, and compare it to an 83-97 Ranger, 91-94 Explorer or 84-90 Bronco II frame and you will see how much extra lift you will need based on the differences in frame height.

Now, what you may want to consider is going to a full hydraulic steering setup.

Most people will say NOT to do this on a street driven vehicle because orbital valves do not have a return to center feel. However, I found a thread on www.pirate4x4.com somewhere, where someone has orbital valves with a return to center feel which would work great! Then you don't have to run a steering box at all.

Now.

 

[jaysend5.0]

I have fiberglass fenders on so I hope 8" will work. My upper limit was origionally set at 10" I supose I could go higher and then keep the axles full length. I wonder how far out they would stick. As for the hydraulic steering, This is a daily driver so I am skeptical but I will definately look into that thanks.

 

[jaysend5.0]

BTW for those looking to this thread for help on there steering check here.
Dead Link Removed
This is a link that has everything you could imagine on the dana 44 steering from the pitman arm down.

 

[jaysend5.0]

Well I just crawled under my truck and the steering is retarded. Would it be possible to put on the older ps box and all linkage to pitman arm? would that work with my pump and all the rest of my stuff, or am I going to have to get every peice of the steering from the steering wheel to the tires?

 

[CoryL]

No one that I know of has put an earlier model box on a later model truck.

I know the frames are totally different, the boxes are totally different, and I would assume where and how the steering shaft attaches is different.

Not sure on the pump. I would think they would be the same, but with rack and pinion, the pressure and volume might be different. Might want to get a pump off of and earlier truck too.

So if you do decide to do it with a stock type setup, I would suggest getting a box with a pitman arm, tearing your old crap out and figuring out how to get the stuff to mount, line up, etc.

I have a feeling you are going to run into some clearance issues with the frame and possibly the engine crossmember.

I still think that if you want to do the SAS you would be best off to

1) find an older vehcile with a 4.0L for cheap and swap it into there and leave your DD alone. Trust me, I know all about having a highly modified DD. It wasn't all that great.

or

2) go with the full hydraulic steering with the orbital valve with a return to center. It would be cheaper and easier and work a HELL of a lot better.

 

[jaysend5.0]

CoryL or others, do you know a place to get a good complete hydraulic kit? This does seem like the best option. I havent ruled out the older truck set up. I wil probably get it from the donor vehicle I get the suspension and or axle from and try to make it work before going hydraulic. I am starting to loose faith in this option though.

 

[CoryL]

www.avalancheengr.com
www.westtexasoffroad.com

Those two off the top of my head.

However, I am still wondering why you are intent on doing this to your 2000 Ranger DD?

Why not buy an older used truck so you don't mind fawking it up?

 

[Randall]

You night also want to talk to Lizardtrac. He is adding a pitman arm steering box on a 98 explorer.

Dead Link Removed

 

[jaysend5.0]

Thanks!
I talked to someone that has an agr box and a custom borgeson steering shaft and that sounds like a pretty bullet proof set up!

 

[rpenner54]

Personally I don't think you need a large amount of lift. I think what is needed in a swap like this is downward flex. You will be limited to upward flex but that can be fixed with the right kind of bumpstops. With the way a solid axle works your right front will go up and hit that bump stop, the left front will be forced down and you will get proper suspension working. LOL Anyways I think you could do the whole thing with having maybe 5" of lift between the axle and the frame. Which may be a lot of lift but its really not if you place on running some bigger tires.

 

[jaysend5.0]

5" would be perfect.

I only need like 3" of up travel and then tons of down.

However with that low a clearance, would the coilovers and radius arms still clear?