Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I feel your pain brother, I went through the same thing with our '91 Ranger 4X4 when replacing the rear spring mounts. Our truck was bought for a play toy, it came from Philly and the rearmost mounts were totally rusted away.
I thank God every day, that I don't live in the Rust Belt.
I just did my shackles and ran into this problem. Even my oh so amazing air hammer didnt touch it. I end up grinding the bolt head off. Drilling about 6 holes in the rubber surround and air hammered the sleeve with the bolt out. Put the other end of the bot in the vice and split the sleeve wide open with the air hammer at its split. Made it round again and hammered it back into the rubber and bolted the shackles. This is just a temporary thing as it was Sunday and the part stores did not have anything and I needed my vehicle. Worked great for this week.
I went to install Warrior shackles today on a 2001 X Sport. 2 bolts were easy, 1 fought me a little but I got it.....the fourth bolt (top bolt in the frame mounted upper bushing) completely frozen to the inner sleeve. I drilled into the cut off bolt and then drove the sleeve/bolt out of the rubber part. I got the rubber sleeve out as well. Here is MY question. I called the dealer and ordered the new bushing but parts could not tell me if it is just the rubber piece with the metal inner sleeve or if it is the out metal sleeve (which is pressed into the frame rail) with the rubber and inner metal sleeve all together. Can anyone confirm how the new bushing will show up?
Well when my new shackel and spring eye bushings came as a kit it was pretty straight forward.. there is one more step though... after all the PIA of removing the shackels, and spring hangers the new bolts came with out the little welded on tab! At least Ford had the fore site to have them on there OEM, but LMC, Energy Suspension, and even the Ford Dealer don't offer the bolts with the tab welded on so there some guess work to get it threaded behind the spring hanger!
You also have to cut out the OUTTER MOST RING/SLEEVE from the leafs to get the new bushings to fit. I used a sawz all and pliers. The new leafs are in and I feel much better and safer!
Now I just need to find out where to get replacement rear upper shock stud/hangers (yep that snapped too)
Best 70 bucks I ever spent. The guys(in a spring repair shop) suffered with it for over an hour(30 min or so each side) with powerful air tools. This was after I spent 2 hours on it. One guy held an impact on one side the other held an air chisel. Remember that the rubber is absorbing some of the blows. Many shops said they don't touch that!
The rust expands and cold welds the metal together. It also creates a high friction interlocking surface.
I'm thinking a ball joint press AND and air hammer may help while its under compression. But depending on the age and level of rust there is no surefire quick answer.
LOL...same here. I resorted to the shop as well. Threw em a little cash and had them blow the bolts out. I worked on mine for like 3 days before I gave up.