Stranded! Ignition Problems (Key spins freely)

[MNVikesFan]

Was out fishing yesterday when the 2001 sport decided to act up. With the boat still on the water, I went to start the explorer to pull the boat out and nothing happens other than my keying spinning freely in the ignition. Won't start or even acknowledge that I'm turning it, it's just loose in the ignition w/ no resistance whatsoever. Accessories also kicked on, it's almost like its stuck in the "on" position. I had to disconnect the battery to avoid a dead battery.

Well here I am now with my boat 50 miles away from me parked at the access. Had nowhere to tow it yesterday, so Im hoping that I can fix whatever it is on site to save myself some money.

Did some searching and think it might be the ignition lock cylinder? I did see a write up on how to do it, but am unsure if ill need keys, or need to bring it to a locksmith or what. Any input is greatly appreciated. THANKS!

 

[waskly]

the ignition cylinder broke... you need a new ignition cylinder.

you can probably buy a pre made cylinder key, with a new key. just swap it out and take the broken part out.

 

[MNVikesFan]

Any ideas what tools I should bring out, and if a novice can do this???

 

[waskly]

Any ideas what tools I should bring out, and if a novice can do this???

phillips, a nice pick set, small head flat head long, a magnet, cant remember if the ignition is magnetic, a needle noise long.

once you take the 3 screws off from around the steering colum. you can take the ignition out, a pin you push with a pic, while key is in the on position.

the fun part is you have to remove the broken peice in the picture and it only comes out one way.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...n-switch-came-out-steering-colum-img00112.jpg

 

[Blee1099]

Was out fishing yesterday when the 2001 sport decided to act up. With the boat still on the water, I went to start the explorer to pull the boat out and nothing happens other than my keying spinning freely in the ignition. Won't start or even acknowledge that I'm turning it, it's just loose in the ignition w/ no resistance whatsoever. Accessories also kicked on, it's almost like its stuck in the "on" position. I had to disconnect the battery to avoid a dead battery.

Well here I am now with my boat 50 miles away from me parked at the access. Had nowhere to tow it yesterday, so Im hoping that I can fix whatever it is on site to save myself some money.

Did some searching and think it might be the ignition lock cylinder? I did see a write up on how to do it, but am unsure if ill need keys, or need to bring it to a locksmith or what. Any input is greatly appreciated. THANKS!

Just to make sure I understand, your keys spins freely but you have the accessories like radio, etc kick on when the key is in the on position? Does the theft light flash rapidly? Hate to say it but either way your gonna need to hire a locksmith or get it towed cause of the PATS issue with the 98+ ignitions and the other half of the pats being at the ignition lock ring.

 

[MNVikesFan]

Just to make sure I understand, your keys spins freely but you have the accessories like radio, etc kick on when the key is in the on position? Does the theft light flash rapidly? Hate to say it but either way your gonna need to hire a locksmith or get it towed cause of the PATS issue with the 98+ ignitions and the other half of the pats being at the ignition lock ring.

Its almost like it busted while it was in the "on" position. Me turning the key does nothing, it spins freely from backward to start position w/o any resistance while turning. When the battery is disconnected my accessories kick on. I had to disconnect the battery to shut the accessories off. I dont believe the theft light is flashing right now.

This is what I picked up at oreillys here a bit ago...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LOC0/LC61770.oap?ck=Search_lc61770_-1_-1&keyword=lc61770

I know nothing about the PATS system. I was told these keys have the transponder or whatever in them? I just need to know if I will need a tow or locksmith cause im literally 10 miles from any city, am being dropped off there in the morning, and need to have some sort of plan in place. Thanks!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

just like blee said. you will need to tow to a locksmith, or dealer so they can program the PATS in your truck. if you try to use the new cylinder and new key as they are, the truck will just turn over, and the theft light will flash, but it will not start.

 

[budwich]

well IF your vehicle "thinks" its ON... are your able to use the shift selector??? (and move the steering)???? IF it is unlocked... THEN put it in neutral, get some wire (or something) and jump the starter solenoid (at the starter) to start the vehicle (of course make sure it is blocked and have an assistant to stop it from "running away" if necessary). Drive it home and fix it accordingly.

 

[MNVikesFan]

well IF your vehicle "thinks" its ON... are your able to use the shift selector??? (and move the steering)???? IF it is unlocked... THEN put it in neutral, get some wire (or something) and jump the starter solenoid (at the starter) to start the vehicle (of course make sure it is blocked and have an assistant to stop it from "running away" if necessary). Drive it home and fix it accordingly.

By on, I just mean that accessories and stuff are on (so radio, blowers etc work), however, I dont think it thinks its "started", just halfway turned on or w/e so radio can still play. I am able to shift it into neutral but am unsure if i can turn the wheel. Will that jumping trick work if only accessories are on? Also is this doable on an 01? Im looking at a $100+ towbill just to get it to the dealer, then god only knows what for the pats programming, and ive called 2 locksmiths that couldnt help me with it.

 

[budwich]

IF your theft light isn't flashing fast, then the system has recognized your key and therefore it thinks everything is "honky dory".... basically, if your energize your starter to start your engine, away you go... assuming that your steering wheel is unlock or that you can drive "straight" home.... ))))

PS. "start" is just a "state".... for energizing the starter temporarily... the REAL state is "ON".... which it sounds like your are in.


PS. I needed to refine this... your theft light should be out totally, then it has recognized your key... just like normal when you are driving.

 

[MNVikesFan]

IF your theft light isn't flashing fast, then the system has recognized your key and therefore it thinks everything is "honky dory".... basically, if your energize your starter to start your engine, away you go... assuming that your steering wheel is unlock or that you can drive "straight" home.... ))))

PS. "start" is just a "state".... for energizing the starter temporarily... the REAL state is "ON".... which it sounds like your are in.

And the safest way to do this is?! Thanks a ton, you saved me quite a bit of money!

 

[budwich]

Probably doing exactly what the start position on the switch does... put 12v temporarily on the starter relay coil which gets energized and then causes power to go to the starter solenoid which then pulls up and causes the "BIG" power to go to the starter motor along with engaging the pinion gear to the flywheel.... and away you go. Remember to remove the power on the relay as soon as the engine starts.

I originally indicated the your can also "jump" the connection at the starter carefully with a screwdriver or wrench... but you may have difficulty getting at the terminals and you need to know which is which. I think the starter relay might be easier. People go to starter directly usually when they are having wiring issues ... and that allows them to get around all that.

Ultimately, when you replace the ignition switch (or dig into why it is acting the way it does), if you have to replace the switch, I do believe that a "good locksmith" can set the "tumblers" up for the existing key and therefore you won't have to get anything reprogrammed.... of course, "resetting" the tumblers does cost something. I haven't had my ignition switch "retumbled" but I have had a door lock replaced / retumbled... it was $60 extra cause they use a "kit" to reformulate the "fingers".


PS. A further check of your system... is... is your check engine light ON... if it is, then this is kind of telling you that your vehicle is ready to start... just give me juice...


PPS... sorry about the add ons... the easiest way to jump start... is probably just pull the starter relay and run a jumper across the pins that represent the contacts that would have been operated (closed) on the relay when it is "pulled up" by the coil.

 

[waskly]

just put the pats key next to the transiver, get a bullshit ignition for like 20 dollars, and start the car. ffs dont make a project out of something simple.

if you want once the bottom is down the transiver is disable just duct tape it to it.

 

[Mo3gsm]

Need Clarification

phillips, a nice pick set, small head flat head long, a magnet, cant remember if the ignition is magnetic, a needle noise long.

once you take the 3 screws off from around the steering colum. you can take the ignition out, a pin you push with a pic, while key is in the on position.

the fun part is you have to remove the broken peice in the picture and it only comes out one way.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...n-switch-came-out-steering-colum-img00112.jpg

In the picture, which piece is the broken part? We removed the old ignition cylinder. When comparing it to the new cylinder, they look exactly the same. However, when the new cylinder was placed, we still have the same problem of freely spinning ignition and vehicle accessories on. Could something else be broken? Thanks for any input.