stuck on my box...

[Saleen_SR71]

i like that site, im estimating... about 7.5 cubes (shared)

i was looking for something in the line of... sq with the possibility of spl, as right now they sound SPLish, i need quality now

 

[Wagonized]

id go bigger with the box for sure. you could make a large port for SPL then have a plug for it that fits inside for SQ.

25 is hz is a great sq tune with monster lows...45+ is more SPL

 

[Saleen_SR71]

i would go bigger... but i didnt want to use the to much rear space, with my sketch, im looking at about... 25" depth wise (whole box).

its confusing, i hope i build it right, it shouldnt be too bad, especially if i make sure the dimentions of the port are correct.

im thinking either a 30 or a 35 hert tune

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

in an explorer, you want to tune around 40-42hz for SPL. You will end up peaking right around 51hz, which is where you want to be. you dont want to give the XXXs too little airspace either, id step it up to 4 cubes a piece if you can. give them ~60 square inches of port a piece and tune it to your taste. if you are looking for SQ, id go somewhere around 28hz. SQL, maybe 34 or 35 hz, if you want SPL id tune it at 41hz. like mentioned before, an interchangable port system may be nice for you.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

i think im trippen... or im actuall giving the subs more space than i thought!

well part of the box ive measured to be...

41.5 x 25 x 16 = 16600/1728=9.6cubic feet about? did i do something wrong there? or is that right?

if thats right i guess im giving them plenty of space.

either way i think ill go with 31hz or something... low 30's, high 20's

an interchangable system would be nice, but i kinda dont want to mess around with one since im going fiberglass on the front, and that would make 3times more work (for me) to do such a thing (even though i know how i would like to do it in my head).

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

that is only 7.88 cubic feet. externally it is 9.6 cubes, but once you take off 1.5" on those dimensions to get the inside of the box, it comes out to only 7.88. You also have to factor in .21 cubic feet PER sub, and however many cubic feet the port takes up. the port will probably displace around 1-1.5 cubic feet since its so large. internally you are looking for a volume that is around 10 cubic feet. externally its going to be probably 13ish cubic feet

 

[Saleen_SR71]

eh only off by a little (plus those were just about internal air space dimentions)...

dimentions including wood thickness,
16 x 40 x 25, thats still about 9.25+ cubes... plus i still go the airspace ill have from going over the wheel wells which is about another 1.8 cubes, so thats more than 10 internal... after sub and port displacement... 9ish?

im still good to go

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

since you are going over the wheel wells, i suggest you do one large port in the center of the box. Shoot for right at 8 cubic feet after all displacements and you will love it.

 

[Afboy143]

I didnt read all the posts but here is my $.02

My friend has 1 15" x.. powered by a hifonics 1500 amp and it bangs. Hes got it in a 2.4 cu ft box ported to 30 hz. Its louder than my setup but not as clean (SI D2 15" on a hifonics 1500 4 cu/ft ported to 28 hz)

I would say go ported. Why? x..'s shine in ported boxes. I did my homework back when I was deciding on what to buy and everyone said to port the x..'s. (www.caraudio.com forums)

Why spend all that money on the subs and amp when your not getting your full potential out of them? Also make sure you upgrade your battery AND/OR your alt. Everytime my bass hits on my new truck with the stock battery, it screams for mercy. On my old truck I had the yellow top and it ran fine. (This was with a 1500 hifonics and 400 2 chan hifonics.)

Also make sure you deaden the back of the truck. When the bass hits in his truck it sounds horrible of rattle, he has to turn the bass up higher to drain the rattle out. Elementel Designs makes a great product called eDead that is cheap and does the job right.

If your going to drop a lot of money on a system, do it right.

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

2.4 cubes ported is WAY too small for a x... I wouldnt be surprised if it sounded like complete junk in such a box.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

i just need another sheet of MDF and a lot of fleece and mat

 

[Afboy143]

2.4 cubes ported is WAY too small for a x... I wouldnt be surprised if it sounded like complete junk in such a box.

No it doesnt sound like absolute junk, it sounds pretty good. Hes too cheap and lazy to deaden his truck so he didnt put it in a big box to run it to its full potential

 

[Saleen_SR71]

right now im running them around 3.5 cubes each sealed...

 

[hydroxy]

Woah... I saw that template and thought to myself "Damn that looks familiar"...

This might be of some use to you:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101485

Has all the measurements of the cargo areas of 2nd gens.

Make sure to take lots of photos of construction...

 

[Saleen_SR71]

i have that picture... saved it just in case...

i dont know, for some reason its a lot different measuing it out than it is looking off the picture... (found it easier to actually measure it then and there)

as for pictures... if i still have my digital camera, and dont break it, ill have them

 

[Saleen_SR71]

alright i just bought some fleece, about to go buy some regular mat, how many layers of fleece will i be looking at? i think i got enough for about 3 layers, and i was thinking 2 layers of mat.

now should i do the top amp rack and the box face at the same time? or would be doing it seperately be just as good?

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

i would stretch the fleece over and use it to get your shape, 1 layer, maybe 2 if you need to in order to get the shape right. I would also do more like 8-10 layers of mat throughout.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

thats a lot of mat! i dont think ill need that much, as long as its about 3/4" thick when im done i think ill be satisfied.

what sucks is after some thinking, i was wondering how the heck am i going to adjust the amps (if needed) if i mount them in a fiberglass display... so now i got to thinking, i need to make a hidden door to get in to them. and since i have to add this hidden door, i need to cover it up with something (probably vynil).

but then i was thinking, why dont i just mount the amps on the back... then id have to recalulate the lengths of the box and what not. but it woudl be a lot better since i would be able to mount the caps on the back of it instead of not knowing where in the first place, but then that would sorta defeat my show display.

so much more thought!

*edit* i dont have the last components of my setup, im missing aftermarket doors, and a new deck. thats why i mentioned readjusting the amps

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

well the mat is what you should use to build up the thickness, not the fleece. if you want it 3/4" thick you are going to need a large amount of mat and resin to do so.

 

[Greg Cejka]

use mdf when building your box. its more stable then anyting else out there. also a sugestioin is to use a layer of mediam thikness felt to beef up the fiberglass part, it will be thiker and you can get it any collor you want that will show through if you sand it well enough. sounds great let us now how it turns out.