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stumped on blowing fuses

Bigcheck1

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Marlton, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Nissan Xterra
I just wired a new set of driving lights into my Xterra. I have done this a few times before on the Explorer. I wired in the harness but I keep blowing fuses. The lights worked and then I turned everything off to wire loom it all up. Got done with that and now the fuse blows everytime I turn them on. I have power at the switch in the cab. that is wired into the ignition and grounded in the engine bay. I am using a relay as well.

Any ideas?
 



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Its a Nissan thats why. :D Have you tried hard wiring to the battery and see if it still blows the fuse? If it doesn't than more than likely your 12v constant on the ignition is can't handle the load.
 






So what your saying is, take the wire that comes from the switch and run that to the battery, instead of the ignition?

My current setup for the lights has the grounds from the lights going to a common engine ground with the ground from the relay. the power leasde form the lights go the relay. the power from the battery goes to the relay. the other terminal on the relay goes to the switch in the cab. that switch gets power from the fuse panel, (after the fuse blows, the switch still stays lit.) the fuse that is blowing is a 15 amp from the battery lead to the relay.

I'm still stumped
 






Make sure your relay isn't hooked up backwards.
 






That is not possible, the realy came with the wiring harness and is set up for a plug in type install. I usually have to make all the wiring myself but I had this APC light harness kit lying around. all the wire was pre cut, and tied in together. I can't figure out why my switch has power even after the fuse blows. I guees the switch gets power when the ignition is on and when I turn the lights on, the fuse from the positive battery lead blows. Should I just scratch the whole harness idea, and use my own wiring like I used to? Just a thought..is it wrong to run my ground leads to the negative battery termainl? should they be grounded to the truck and not the battery?

There has to be something wrong with this.
 






Bigcheck1 said:
Just a thought..is it wrong to run my ground leads to the negative battery terminal? should they be grounded to the truck and not the battery?
Yes, your lights should be grounded to the chassis, not the battery.
 






It shouldnt make any difference where the lights are grounded, battery or body. Unless you dont have a neg. ground system in the nissan. I would try putting the grounds on the battery & see if it makes a difference.
Usually its the hot+ wire comming in contact with the ground or another hot wire that causes a short and blows a fuse.
 






ok, i ripped out the harness that I was using. I made my own. Now i'm sure that it's my error.

here's the latest. I have a 2 pole switch (1 load and 1 acc.) I have the wires into the realy and the lights are grounded to the battery. The lights don't work with the switch, but if I touch a grounded wire (my test light run from the battery) to the load terminal on the relay, (85), the lights will turn on as the relay clicks over. Anybody have a wiring schematic for my type setup?

2 pole switch (non-lighted) and 2 lights.
 






There are links & a diagram in th FAQs at top of Lighting forum page.
 






Here is another wiring diagram with state table.
18205Hella_Wiring_WEB1.jpg
 






forgot to mention that they now work fine. With my stock headlights, stock fog lights and now these Hella's, the front of my truck is brighter than anything I've ever had. I could drive at night with just the new driving lights on they're so bright. this will be a real asset since most of my driving is at night anymore. thanks for the help.
 






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