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Subs in the rear hatch

mrsteve

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I just thought of something. If you were pushing subs IN the rear hatch really hard that's a lot a vibration for the rear glass to handle and you run the risk of it breaking. Just something else to think/worry about.

Steve
 



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DarkFox1

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bah, man, theres too many complications to fitting them in the door, I think we all know now why ford opted not to do this themselves? ;) I think yer best bet would be to get the sealth box.. it would really solve your problems
 






mrsteve

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Yeah if you went with the stealth box I think it would save you some headaches. You could also do what I did. I mounted my amp where the stock sub was and then added a sealed sub box. When I need cargo room I take the subs out. Unless you need room back there all the time I would just get a regular box. It's gonna sound better and you won't have to worry about all that other stuff.

Steve
 






Skippman

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Ok, rear hatch install. Whats needed.

Dynamat
Alot of it. Over 12 Sq FT for proper coverage.
Cost- $120

Caulk
Need to seal whatever you make the "box" out of.
Cost- $15

MDF/Wood
To make the plate to bolt the subs to.
Cost- $20

Hydraulic Shocks
Needed to replace the already weak rear shocks.
Cost- Unknown est $50

Subs
The key piece here. Somthing like a Kicker Square or Boston Competator series. Rockford maybe. Somthing with a weak magnet and light assmebly. Definatly no Mac-Daddy's back there. I wouldn't go much larger than 2 8's.
Cost- Varies (at least $100 per sub)

Needless to say your looking at a good chunk of change. This topic was considered by myself back when I was looking into a Bronco II to replace my Wrangler. (Couldn't find one that wasn't a rust bucket. Thats when I got the Shadow) It was the general consensus of every installer and all the people on the board I talked to that it was a bad plan. If you do it, MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THOSE HYDRO'S!!! I cannot stress that enough. There's already been one recall on those things for breaking down and people getting hit on the head with them. Add about 50lbs and there ya go.

Just my 411 on the topic.


-Skip
"The guy who overformats his posts."
 






91xltTerd

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I think that for best results you should make a box inside the door that protrudes out into the cargo area a few inches to get a little more air space. As far as the box inside the door, you need to be good with fiberglass and willing to speed hours working on it. Sealed enclosures always seem to sound better to me. Also there are doorlock linkages that go across the middle of the door that would have to be pondered over. Just my 2 cents.

Chip
 






DarkFox1

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hey, this is kinda off the topic, but I have a bad hatch door rattle when my subs are goin, been thinking about using some expanding foam in the hatch to stop it, but there appears to be some sort of filter in the panel? and theres a vent on the bottom of the hatch door, what is this for and would I be causing any problems if I foamed inside the door? and would the foam even help the rattle? I have 2 subs firing right at the window in a wedge style box.. I beleive a picture of it is on this post.. I don't remember
 






91xltTerd

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I fixed most all of my rattle by taking the plastic trim off the hatch door and stuffing poly-fil all in there and then putting the soft side of velcro around the edges of the plastic where it touched the metal. I spread the pieces out about every foot or so and now my only rattle comes from the backing plate on my damn Rockford amps. Love the amps hate the rattle. I'm gonna take the backing plates off whenever I get the time to take my subs out so I can get to the screws holding up my amp rack.

Chip
 






DarkFox1

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good idea.. polyfill.. I might just try that.. that stuffs kinda cheap also isn't it? I mean. it just looks like a wad of cotton to me..

I know exactly what you mean subs rattlinbg.. I have a set of JLw0s.. they rattle BAAD yuou can hear the rattle from far away over the bass with the hatch door open.. I'm looking at some IDQ12s after christmas
 






91xltTerd

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polyfil is no more than a few dollars for a good sized bag. I think I used 2 or 3 bags I can't remember. I think the velcro did more than the polyfil but I did them both at the same time so i'm not sure.

Chip
 






expotrek

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i put 6x9s in the back hatch door of my 92 expo they work great! i used jensen 6x9's and the only problem i encountered was the basket fiting the irregular shaped holes behind the plastic door panel this weekend i'm putting a more expensive set of pioneers in and also 6x9s in the rear door and 6.5s in the front doors go with 6x9s in the back they look awesome
 






mrsteve

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I would only go with 6x9's in the back if you hooked a crossover up to them to only play lower frequencies. Otherwise you are gonna screw up your front sound stage. They may look cool but the imaging would be totally out of wack.
 






expotrek

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no really with the back seat up you can honestly not hear the highs just a good clean thump with the seats down you get a little messed up but still i wanted mine more for open the liftgate lets have a party theme they work frickin awesome for that!
 






Jefe

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Another thought before using the rear hatch for speakers:

Originally posted by DarkFox1
. . .there appears to be some sort of filter in the panel? and theres a vent on the bottom of the hatch door, what is this for. . .

I'm pretty sure that this is the exit for A/C / Heater so if you plugged it up you would have at least minor problems with air flow. That only leaves you half of the hatch to do something with.
 






lrbrown

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subs in rear hatch

I had 4 alpine zr 10's installed in a custom made fiberglass enclosure with a shitload of power to the subs and I had it sealed so nothing rattled outside but I took it out because of the weight of the rear door. I had beefed up struts holding it and they went out in six months. If you do this you might want to go with the lightest subs you can get and stick with just 2 10's the eights will not sound off as well.
 






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