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gman1234

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So it took me about 6 hours (including time to take a trip to the parts store and lunch) to swap my rear end by myself. Donor was a 99 ex axle with 4.10s and discs. My rig is a 94, 3.27, drum brake unit. Using all the stock hardware for the e-brake cable was completely possible as long as no parts were cut along the way. I used all the stock stuff and it works just as it should. ABS sensor plugs in between those years, nice bonus. The brake line required a fitting between the stock 99 line off the splitter block and my extended s/s line I have for my lift. I ended up with a female to female situation for fittings. A quick trip to the far parts store (close one didn't have it) and 6 bucks later I was good to go. I chose to do the master cylinder push rod adjustment first to see if I like that, this option be free. If that proves ineffective I will buy a master cylinder from a 96 /wo cruise control and swap, this option be 100 bucks. While I was at this I got some beefy new u bolts to swap in as well, cuz like hey what not right? Those stock ones are so pathetic next to any real u bolts :p:



Dropped her on pavement this afternoon, test drive was good. No ugly sounds :P From 3.27 to 4.10 on 31 inch tires, wow, my truck likes me again. Just wanted to share my experience in case any one has a question later as I did while doing this swap.

Big Thanks to Tbars and Paul G. for help on this as well as Brett of the ranger forums. They helped me have the right knowledge for this PRIOR to doing it, mucho thanks to them. :salute:

:D
 



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Mean, so mean.:p:
Posted via Mobile Device
 












this is my next thing im going to do.good to here its an easy thing to do.man 3.27 to 4.10 bet you can tell a difference.you do your speedo cable gear also?
 






Very cool!

I am undecided on if I should go to 4.10's or not. I have 3.73's now, with a V8.

Nice mod!

Ryan
 






I havent done the speedo thing yet since I am running 31s and am most definately buying a new set of 33s right after I gear my front diff.

The difference is really noticable for sure. Used to be sluggish off the line. Now the power delivery feels proper again. Feels like it should :D
 






...I just seen this...Congrats on a job well done...I really like seeing someone follow thru on their projects...:salute:

...I just recently did this swap myself and will be posting pics soon...I didn't get the rear disc but I got an already installed Detroit locker...I will do disc on a future mod...
 






Mean, so mean.:p:
Posted via Mobile Device
Ahah I do applogize, I made this comment thinking you were the user "gmanpaint" - which of course you are not (which means you are not mean).
 






Congrats on a job well done!!-- I went from 3.27- to 4:56 and yep gearing makes a big big difference!
 






Good work!

My past two 5.0 Explorers had 3.73 LS rear-ends. I went out last night to check the code on my current 5.0 Explorer and it has the dreaded 3.55 non-LS, so I'm thinking about jumping 3.73s this time and going straight to 4.10s. Of course, I'll need to find a Sport donor. With that being said, this Explorer feels a lot peppier than the others... even down in the low-end, which is odd since it has 3.55s. Maybe I'm just going crazy.
 
























gman...and others
I did the rear-end swap to 4.10 LSD with discs (1999 donor) about a year ago. I opted to not change out the master cylinder and instead I slightly tuned the threaded rod located in the brake booster once the master is removed. After several tuning sessions I thought I had the brake feel/pedal pressure dialed in. Its been about a year, I dont't drive the explorer often, but when I do I have been experiencing severe brake drag coming from the rears, the rear pads are binding down onto the rotors, causing pads and rotors to wear quickly and it is severe enough where I need to stop the car once this begins to occur, seems to worsen the further I drive. Has anyone else experienced this? Would swapping out the master cylinder solve this problem (problem being unbalanced brake presseure). If so, I want to get a new master cylinder, do I get one from a 2nd generation explorer? I have rear ABS and cruise control, do I need to take this into consideration when purchasing a new master. Any input is appreciated. Will post new thread too.
 






I experienced this as well. I did not immediately swap the master cylinder and tried the pushrod adjustment, BIG MISTAKE!!! Do not mess with it. I ended up dragging my fronts so bad they were smoking hot! Buy a 96 ex master cylinder without AC. Direct swap in. The 94 cylinder has a preload in the rear loop to compensate for drums. Drums need this to respond properly when discs in front and the brakes are applied (even brake pressure) . When you put discs in the back that preload is too great and causes rear dragging (which I also experienced before swapping) without adjusting anything. Its the natural reaction from changing to discs on a drum system. I know I read some guys say they never had an issue but I don't think they were being very thorough or cared if it was right, just "works for me".

SO IMO swap it for a 96, put the adjuster back to stock (gonna be hard now if you adjusted it alot) and the problem should be gone. That is what I did. I put new rotors and pads in back, and parking shoes. Works like a charm and she stops on a dime, abs and all.

CHEERS!
 






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