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Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

I'm gonna check grounds and battery cables
Tomorrow
If I can't find anything oh well

But I am going to give it a good once over
Hope I figure it out
 



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It's a new issue for cars that get very old, you have to deal with some things that you don't with newer cars.
 






Bad grounds are a common problem across many brands and models. The 4th gens have ground issues quite often as do the S197 Mustangs. GM vehicles do also.
 






Ok y'all I can't find any bad grounds but I did remove and clean them anyway
New problem
Driving along and the truck shutdown and turned back on causing a bit of bucking
I had the sct out monitoring battery v
It did it again
but the sct said no com so the pcm is losing power intermittently my best guess
Took a look at the relay
20210605_145017_kindlephoto-180366793.jpg

I have a bag of spare relays
Its now testing .2 v instead of .4 v difference between battery and pcm pid

Not sure if I found the pcm losing com problem im not sure what it is yet
 






Bam, that's another good weak link to replace, the major relays. I started collecting some NOS relays a few years ago. I'd like to replace all of them in keeper cars, but the relays aren't always a cheap deal.
 






I'm having a hell of a time getting my supercharger back off. I'm trying to realign it so all the pulleys are square. Do you have a secret to getting the top and bottom plenum separated? Mine seem like they are welded together.
 






I'm having a hell of a time getting my supercharger back off. I'm trying to realign it so all the pulleys are square. Do you have a secret to getting the top and bottom plenum separated? Mine seem like they are welded together.
Yes ill make a quick vid for you its simple

Edit:

I forgot to say the video
Go slow when prying on stuff
Even pressure until it pops do just yank on it lol
Any ?s just ask ill respond as fast as I can
 






I'm working on that bottom plenum now. I got everything else off in one piece. I'm going to try that wood handle trick. It's been driving me mad. If that doesn't work I am going to re attach the top and pull it all off together since it's all unbolted. Which I ended up using a bottle jack for.

IMG_20210611_195141.jpg
 






re attach the top and pull it all off together since it's all unbolted
Don't the bottom plenum have its own 12 bolts
Recessed large alien bolts

Oh I get what u mean bolt it back together for leverage

The hammer handle will work I've had that thing apart a few times now

Hammer handle and pry hard
 






Btw. I love the bottle jack trick
 






Couldn't find any place to leverage the hammer handle, the timing chain tensioner was in the way. Ended up putting the charger back on and using bottle jack again. Popped right off. I love hydraulics. Got a good understanding now for how powerful they are, for the small amount of effort they require.

Now the tedious process of cleaning all the old silicone off.
 












Alternator story continues...
I ordered a smaller pulley $24 48mm stock was 58mm
When I went to install it it did not fit
The aftermarket high amp alternator front case half was wrong
The opening for the pulley shaft was just a little to small

I ended up using the ford front case half
Ford regulator ..a remain directly from a local rebuild shop ..
He gave me a new set of skf bearings as well
All for $30 ...he thought the truck was cool and the fact that I could build my own alternator

I also installed a volt and amp meters
Not sure if I'm gonna keep em
What y'all think?
20210614_185029-2.jpg


Cold start
20210614_185551.jpg

Idle hot
20210615_100755.jpg

Driving with AC on
20210615_095018.jpg

Idle with basically everything on
20210615_100055.jpg

Amp meter Hall effect sensor
20210615_113249.jpg

Thoughts??
I think its good .
 






I like that, I'd love to know the current being used under various conditions.

You are handy with all kinds of various projects, here's one I've love to see pushed forward; Find a small aftermarket instrument gauge for coolant temp, voltage, oil pressure, and fuel pressure if you want to do them all for me. I want to find those with an internal output circuit, which will feed a common LED display. Find a small(very small volume size) LED display for the simple short size needed, and rewire the gauge to tap into the output, wire it to the new LED panel. Do that, verify it works, and then install the LED panel behind the stock gauges, behind a cut out slot in the OEM gauge face. I want to have those four pieces of information visible within the stock gauges.

I'm sure fitting a tiny LED in behind each OEM gauge face will be the hardest part.
 






I like that, I'd love to know the current being used under various conditions.

You are handy with all kinds of various projects, here's one I've love to see pushed forward; Find a small aftermarket instrument gauge for coolant temp, voltage, oil pressure, and fuel pressure if you want to do them all for me. I want to find those with an internal output circuit, which will feed a common LED display. Find a small(very small volume size) LED display for the simple short size needed, and rewire the gauge to tap into the output, wire it to the new LED panel. Do that, verify it works, and then install the LED panel behind the stock gauges, behind a cut out slot in the OEM gauge face. I want to have those four pieces of information visible within the stock gauges.

I'm sure fitting a tiny LED in behind each OEM gauge face will be the hardest part.
Indeed

I had the volt meter laying around
The amp meter was $20 on Amazon 0-400a
I got that amp meter because it matches the volt meter and color scheme of my current gauges
 






Good stuff!

I think that's the same squeaky pulley I am running, smooth, machined nicely, and slippery, squeaky. Did I say it's slips under high acceleration and squeaks? I hope you do not have the same. I got to fix it.
 






Good stuff!

I think that's the same squeaky pulley I am running, smooth, machined nicely, and slippery, squeaky. Did I say it's slips under high acceleration and squeaks? I hope you do not have the same. I got to fix it.
It was singing like a newborn bird

The pulley is a power master 115

I had too install a 1\2 inch shorter belt
Thinking of your post
Problem solved ...for now...
 












I started reading this thread yesterday and just finished. I thoroughly enjoyed it! I commend Donald for taking the time to document his boost installation and other forum members for offering advice and encouragement. It was an inspiring Father/Son team project fitting to read on Father's Day weekend.
On my boost project even with only about 5 psi of boost the PCM pulled a lot of advance timing due to high IATs and knock sensor detection. My intake air comes from behind the front grille and the headlight opening. I use a high flow air filter - no longer available - that fits the stock filter box base. I desensitized knock sensor retard.

2INLETS.JPG


AirFilterBase.jpg


AirFilterCover5.jpg


AirFilterCover6.jpg
 



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I started reading this thread yesterday and just finished. I thoroughly enjoyed it! I commend Donald for taking the time to document his boost installation and other forum members for offering advice and encouragement. It was an inspiring Father/Son team project fitting to read on Father's Day weekend.
On my boost project even with only about 5 psi of boost the PCM pulled a lot of advance timing due to high IATs and knock sensor detection. My intake air comes from behind the front grille and the headlight opening. I use a high flow air filter - no longer available - that fits the stock filter box base. I desensitized knock sensor retard.

View attachment 332918

View attachment 332919

View attachment 332920

View attachment 332921
Thanks for the kind remarks
My son and I have had tons of fun with this build
Learned a lot to

I've used TONS of your threads for repairs
The detail and info is invaluable on this forum
 






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