Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

[CDW6212R]

What are the voltages, cold and off, idling with little on, and warmed up with more loads running?

I oddly had a battery issue myself yesterday, and I didn't make time to trace it today. I have the high amp(220) on mine now, and the pulley is not the small one like the original, so at idle my voltage is low. I think my battery is going, but your is likely going to be the alternator in some way. You need it to make above 13v with any loads on it, 14-14.5 for most normal load running.

 

[Samoflan]

I don't know if this will help but I got this pulley kit for my truck. Should work on all 4.0 SOHC engines.



I had it installed but I had to remove it, because the belt was falling off the A/C compressor pulley. I believe the Supercharger is slightly misaligned. I haven't gotten around to pulling the whole thing apart to slide the Supercharger back.

The upgrade would allow more wrap around your alternator, which is the original reason I got this. I also believe you may have a 95 Amp alternator which I think was barely adequate for the explorer. I believe my 2009 Ranger has 130 Amp alternator and so far it hasn't been a problem. I think they are all interchangeable with each other.

Ford Ranger Alternators

www.therangerstation.com

 

[donalds]

I do have this on the shelf
I ordered 1 1/2 weeks ago
Just came in today

High Output Alternator 220 Amp 4.0L Explorer 1997-2000 / 5.0L 1996-2001

Shop DB Electrical for a High Output Alternator 2000 5.0, including the 220 Amp 4.0L Explorer 1997-2000 / 5.0L 1996-2001. Great selection and low prices.

www.dbelectrical.com

What are the voltages, cold and off, idling with little on, and warmed up with more loads running?

I oddly had a battery issue myself yesterday, and I didn't make time to trace it today. I have the high amp(220) on mine now, and the pulley is not the small one like the original, so at idle my voltage is low. I think my battery is going, but your is likely going to be the alternator in some way. You need it to make above 13v with any loads on it, 14-14.5 for most normal load running.

 

[donalds]

I don't know if this will help but I got this pulley kit for my truck. Should work on all 4.0 SOHC engines.



I had it installed but I had to remove it, because the belt was falling off the A/C compressor pulley. I believe the Supercharger is slightly misaligned. I haven't gotten around to pulling the whole thing apart to slide the Supercharger back.

View attachment 331609

The upgrade would allow more wrap around your alternator, which is the original reason I got this. I also believe you may have a 95 Amp alternator which I think was barely adequate for the explorer. I believe my 2009 Ranger has 130 Amp alternator and so far it hasn't been a problem. I think they are all interchangeable with each other.

Ford Ranger Alternators

www.therangerstation.com

I did mod my belt system earlier in this thread
My 99 came stock with a 130amp Alternator
Post a link to the kit so others can find it please?

 

[donalds]

I do have this on the shelf
I ordered 1 1/2 weeks ago
Just came in today

High Output Alternator 220 Amp 4.0L Explorer 1997-2000 / 5.0L 1996-2001

Shop DB Electrical for a High Output Alternator 2000 5.0, including the 220 Amp 4.0L Explorer 1997-2000 / 5.0L 1996-2001. Great selection and low prices.

www.dbelectrical.com

@CDW6212R that pulley smaller than stock

The new pulley is 6-GROOVE PULLEY 59mm OD

 

[CDW6212R]

I have had a DB Electronics alternator, 170 amps for about that price. It only lasted about two years with minor driving, maybe 15k miles. I wasn't happy about that, and when I had it serviced by a local shop, they said there wasn't anything really special inside of it. That's all i know about them, I wasn't planning to buy another.

The one I bought last is the same that Tim has on his truck(blown 347 Sport), it was about $260 from Summit. I have high hopes for it also, but like most big amp units, they need a little more rpm(small pulley), to make the rated amps at a desired low rpm. I have a stock alternator that has a smaller pulley on it than the 220A unit, so I need to swap those around now.

The high optioned Explorers had 130 or 140amp alternators, those should be good enough for most people. It's when you add things that add 40-50+ amps at idle which can cause an issue.

 

[Samoflan]

I did mod my belt system earlier in this thread
My 99 came stock with a 130amp Alternator
Post a link to the kit so others can find it please?

All the information is in the youtube video description, but I'll put it here to.

"follow up video after 5,000 miles or more acquired on kit. Idler pulley bracket available for sale contact me at soupercooper at hotmail dot com, price for brcket only is $175 plus shipping, all other parts your required to acquire to complete kit, I will guide on how to complete the kit."

 

[BrooklynBay]

What kind of battery do you have? What kind of condition are the terminals in? Do the terminals have an antioxidant coating? An AGM high current battery from Odyssey is recommended.

 

[donalds]

Battery is less than a year old duralast gold
Biggest bat I could fit
Terminals are brass soldered
To the wires

 

[CDW6212R]

That's good, the terminal ends are weak points where corrosion eventually grows. Hunt for new cables if you ever have spare time, they have been obsolete for 10+ years. I've looked and planned to find some other application to swap with, we need to.

 

[Blown]

Ohhh my noisy little alternator pulley...........................180 amp alternator solved my problem (running 6 electric radiator fans)................but the belt slips on that little pulley when she revs-up quick. I want to sandblast the pulley or something to make it grab better without tearing-up the belt.

 

[donalds]

I installed the new alternator
Key off 12.7
First start 14.2 v settled at 13.8 v over 1 min
At idle 650 rpm With everything off 13.2 everything on 13.5v
No matter what speed or load 13.3-13.8 v
I turned everything on 13.5 v wth
will it self adjust?
I went to AutoZone to have the battery tested =100%


Oh at about 850 rpm 13.8 v
14v @ 2000 rpm

Now the ecm is reading exactly .4 v lower at any rpm or load checked with two scanners and two meters
I tested from many ground and battery alternator

 

[Blown]

That's good! Just so you are not seeing greater than 14.5 volts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are good figures. I'd keep an eye on the main wires and terminals, for any other hiccups like dimming lights etc.

 

[donalds]

Ok so I'm wondering
Why is the pcm pid on the forscan and sct
Read .4 lower than battery voltage
Always .4v lower at the pcm

I checked my data logs for the first and second tunes
Checking like 6 different logs
Same readings I'm at now

Lasoda even said its low but of course I checked at the battery and dismissed it then

I'm getting 13.45v at the pcm with a scanner
And 14 at the battery

Btw cold start the pcm pid is 14v
Till it idles down


Anyone have a pcm pin out ?? Maybe @J_C has it
So I can check power at the pcm pins

 

[BrooklynBay]

The long, thin factory wiring has resistance so the voltage is lower at the PCM than at the battery.

 

[Blown]

Check the resistance of the old grounding cables from the battery to the body and battery to engine.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i as well as 2 others have the same sort of problem but with v8 trucks.
mine at the battery, 14.3, at the obd port, 13.3.
dono's old truck the same
ahodges truck, same.
i had a v8 limited a couple of years ago that was bone stock and wanted to see if it was doing the same thing. nope. 14.3 at the battery and obd port. it drives me nuts. at a stop light at night i can see the lights in the dash dim, and can watch the volt gauge drop.

 

[CDW6212R]

I was hoping those were very isolated instances. I'm not as familiar with the engine harness(PCM and trans all in one), but the ground circuit would be a good place to begin a trace for that main PCM voltage. In most older EFI Fords(late 80's), the wiring wasn't nearly as good as the 2nd gen Explorers and newer. In those they typically had a separate ground wire(or two together), running from the battery to radiator support, and then back through the engine bay wires, finally to the PCM inside, and to the kick panels.

I would tack where the main PCM ground goes first, that ones easy to test at any point, comparing it to the battery ground. If any main connector or ground point has a poor terminal connection, or corrosion in the wires/terminals etc, that would absorb some voltage. The ground is shared heavily, but the power path is often separate for most things.

 

[CDW6212R]

Another thought, check the main battery cables closely. At this age, corrosion inside the cables, on the copper surfaces, that reduces current flow. I had one on my 91 Lincoln that I replaced at about 15 years of age, with a custom large one from a local wiring business. That cable I replaced a few years later, with a spare low mileage 302 Explorer cable. There was enough corrosion in the two prior cable to cause it to be slow cranking the 302 engine. Those Lincolns likely have some constant current draws which accelerate corrosion in the wiring. These late 90's Fords also may have that kind of old age issue.