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Suspension: shocks, anti-sway bar, links...

Oh god, the more i look into this "improving handling thing" the more i find thing to replace/fix :dead:

*Body mounts. I checked mine and lets just say they are way gone and if i really want to get best results from all my investment i need to get this done too... But this job i don't think i can do it myself, i just wish i had a garage and a 2 car. So i will be shopping around for estimates.
 



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So far this is what i'm getting, all from rock auto;
shocks:
RANCHO Part # RS999185
RANCHO Part # RS999229

control arm:
MOOG Part # CK80068
MOOG Part # CK8708T

bar bushing and links:
MOOG Part # K700542
MOOG Part # K80080

... when i'm done i'll show you guys some pictures, for now this is my beauty, 207.000+ miles original owner
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thank you
 






I think it's suggested to get an alignment after ie. Uca. And to make it easier for adjustment, since you are already removing the stock bolts/cam washer thing, it might be a good idea to buy/install a camber kit.

I bought raybestos for price and 2 1/4 degree but moog has some also, I think 1 3/4 degree.
 






I think it's suggested to get an alignment after ie. Uca. And to make it easier for adjustment, since you are already removing the stock bolts/cam washer thing, it might be a good idea to buy/install a camber kit.

I bought raybestos for price and 2 1/4 degree but moog has some also, I think 1 3/4 degree.

Yes, i was planning to get the alignment. But honestly, i have no idea what a camber kit is, the guy in the video did mention that.
I will start my research for this but if anyone can provide any info on how to install i will really apreciate.

Thanks
 






The camber kit is the 2 bolts that attach the UCA to the frame.

Ford designed the X with minimal camber adjustability. The bolt kit allows more adjustability.

I think I paid around $50 for mine.

MT
 






Look in the suspension section at rock auto for camber kit, you'll see it- 10-20$ per side. You need 2 kits
 






Ok, was looking to add the cam bolt kit but i see moog has 1-5/8 degree, but raybestos has 2-1/4... is raybestos better?
 






Not necessarily better, just more range of adjustment. Unless you plan on lifting or lowering, 1 5/8 degrees is more than adequate to set the camber and caster to spec. The stock camber bolts allow no adjustment and even for stock height vehicles the camber kits make it much easier to align. General rule is 3/4 degree for every inch of ride height change. Be aware removing the stock drivers side camber bolts can be very difficult due to hard line clearance, some even cut the bolts for removal. One camber kit required for each side. Beautiful Trac BTW, amazing for over 200k. :thumbsup:

How to: Install camber adjusters 2nd Gen Explorer
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191742

REVISED PROCEDURE FOR ADJUSTING ALIGNMENT ON ALL SUSPENSIONS - NEW RIGHT HAND UPPER CONTROL ARM DESIGN FOR TORSION BAR FRONT SUSPENSIONS
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=126634

Ford Truck Upper Control Arm Replacement
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf
 






I have the Moog in my 00 currently.

With the 2" lift in the front, the shop had no problem aligning the front. I just had it done about 2 weeks ago.

The passenger side is a breeze, the drivers side front bolt is tight, but I was able to wiggle it out.

With the right tools you should be able to do both sides in about 1 1 1/2 hours.

MT
 






I bought mine from Advance Auto.

You can go online and buy your parts then put TRT 30 in the apply codes box, and get 30% off.

Then just go to the store and pick up your parts.

MT
 












thank you guys:thumbsup:


I bought mine from Advance Auto.

You can go online and buy your parts then put TRT 30 in the apply codes box, and get 30% off.

Then just go to the store and pick up your parts.

MT

30% off :eek:... damn, i need to start a new search, i was ready to hit "order now" with rock auto. i will give that a try


update:
Nop, rock auto still much cheaper. but i do buy stuff from advance auto so i do apreciate the code. thank you very much
 






Parts ordered, and shipped! :party:

Now on to buying some other goodies, will be stoping at freight harbor to get better tools, floor jack, jack stands, breaker bar, etc, etc... Told my wife that i was saving like $1500 doing all this myself so it's like christmas in june!:party: ... But it's actually true!

If i let a mechanic shop do all ths shopping for parts+labor+fees and taxes i was going to be down like $2000, (maybe more) and parts only cost me $400 including the $106 mail in rebate from rancho.

Now, i need to prep my ST for the job. I need to spray those bolts and nuts, so i will spray the crab out of them a week before i start wrenching. It's "pb blaster" the best for the job? What would you guys use or do before you start wrenching?
 






Best- don't know but that will do or any other penetrate, for most nuts and bolts. I actually have read diy test results with kroil being the best (store bought) unless you count making your own with atf/acetone (which was far better)

This has helped in a pinch for that 1 stubborn bolt, at least what options you have http://addto.it/Remove-Broken-Stripped-Rounded-or-Damaged-Bolt-Heads-and-Nuts
 






SeaFoam Deep Creep

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...eep&vehicleIdSearch=42575&searchedFrom=header

This stuff is just amazing.

When I changed out the springs the bottom bolts had to be cut out.

I sprayed the top bolts with deep creep and about an hour later they slid right out.

Has your ST been a FL truck it's whole life?

Mine has, and it makes a world of difference.

I see some of the pictures and the horror stories some of the guys have up north with the rusted bolts. And I'm so happy I haven't had to deal with that, other than the leaf spring bolts.

Any advice you need, or if you run into something you need to ask about, my number is 5612103399.

MT





Parts ordered, and shipped! :party:

Now on to buying some other goodies, will be stoping at freight harbor to get better tools, floor jack, jack stands, breaker bar, etc, etc... Told my wife that i was saving like $1500 doing all this myself so it's like christmas in june!:party: ... But it's actually true!

If i let a mechanic shop do all ths shopping for parts+labor+fees and taxes i was going to be down like $2000, (maybe more) and parts only cost me $400 including the $106 mail in rebate from rancho.

Now, i need to prep my ST for the job. I need to spray those bolts and nuts, so i will spray the crab out of them a week before i start wrenching. It's "pb blaster" the best for the job? What would you guys use or do before you start wrenching?
 






Thanks guys great info.

Thanks MASTequila, i think i got this, but if not i will give you a buzz.
 






Looks like my front left upper ball joint is busted... One more project, lucky me :D
Now i'm going to replace both control arms
I just saw a video on how to replace the whole control arm and looks pretty straight forward. any tips for that job? :scratch:

Get the cambers bolts, if you don't have them already.

You're gonna do the same work, may as well replace them. You'll likely need them for a good alignment.

MT
 






Get the cambers bolts, if you don't have them already.

You're gonna do the same work, may as well replace them. You'll likely need them for a good alignment.

MT

Yes, i did get the camber bolts :thumbsup:

Btw, yes, my ST has lived in south florida it's whole life
 



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Then you're ahead of the game.

It should come apart fairly easy.

MT
 






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