2nd Gen "Custom" Anti Sway Bar Links, Cheap!

[kythri]

So, no issue with not having a ball joint on the end where these connect to the lower control arm?

I too have a Superlift installed in my '99.

My issue is that the bushings where the links fasten to the sway bar have eroded, and on the driver's side, the washer broke, causing the sway bar to clear the nut, clunking back and forth.

I've pulled the Superlift links currently, and am mildly worried that the ball joint in the links is needed.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I never had any issue, when I removed the lift, I shortened those same links and ran them till my wife totaled it. The ball flex thing just isn't necessary IMO, the IFS doesn't move that much.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool Evan, I remember seeing this thread back then. I had just finished collecting the parts I used to rebuild my front end.

There are many levels of parts quality. End links aren't complicated and this simple set up using threaded rod and pipe will work for most applications. I had used ES components several times before, first in about 1988.

I did discover this last time that some ES kits have large diameter bushings in them like I wanted, but most use the little stuff. I want big bushings and washers, they last longer. I mixed components from three sets, one that came with my Addco bar, an ES end link kit, and an older ES full kit(with frame bushings). Use what works best for you.

 

[kythri]

Ergh.

OK, so, going through trying to build these.

Turns out, nobody sells 3/8" pipe anymore - black or galvanized. Or, at least, nobody local to me does.

Nobody sells 7/16" pipe, period, it seems.

1/2" is the minimum.

Soooo....

The 9.8105R bushings are 3/8" ID. The 9.8103G are 7/16" ID.

It looks like I'm going to end up going with 1/2" all-thread and pipe to rebuild the end links.

At the moment, it looks like I'm going to need to make the 9.8103G bushings fit, which shouldn't be too much of an issue, but just curious if anyone knows of a 1/2" ID bushing, since I can't seem to find one on Energy Suspension's site.

 

[Turdle]

Try looking for "tube" instead of "pipe"

http://www.speedymetals.com/s-199-round-tube.aspx

Getting it on line might not be expensive as you think, once you consider all the gas it takes to chase down.

 

[CDW6212R]

Making them from close to home materials is cheap and can work well, but consider if your time is worth the savings. You can find a nice ES end link kit for about $20, often locally. The only tricky part is the same for any method, you need to figure out what length of end link you need, and identify the part numbers etc.

 

[kythri]

Haven't really been able to find anything 12+" on the open market, save for the stuff that came with the Superlift that they want $130 for a pair.

Got the new links in this weekend.

Went with 1/2" Grade 2 all-thread, Grade 5 fasteners (they were cheaper, for some reason), 1/2" galvanized pipe and the 9.8103G bushings.

Slightly modified the described install:

From top to bottom:

1/2" Nyloc
1/2" Lock Washer
1/2" USS Washer
ES Bushing
Sway Bar
ES Bushing
1/2" USS Washer
Pipe
1/2" USS Washer
ES Bushing
LCA and Spacer/Shim for the hole in the LCA (came with the Superlift kit, I think? 1/2" ID ring that fits into the hole in the LCA, was already on the Explorer)
ES Bushing
1/2" USS Washer
1/2" Lock Washer
1/2" Nyloc

I had originally intended to use jam nuts on the bottom, but things were being a pain getting them to go on the all thread along with the washers - the lock washers were probably overkill, but I felt more comfortable with them.

I used blue threadlocker on the stuff too, so I don't think anything will come off.

I really wanted to use the bigger bushings, which is why I ended up not going with 3/8" stuff - not to mention, not being able to find 3/8" pipe anywhere.

Would have LOVED to go 7/16" so the bushings would be an easy-on/easy-off were I to ever want to disconnect this quickly - the bushings are great, and held up to me stretching/twisting/flexing/forcing them over the 1/2" thread, but it was a relatively time-consuming process, all things considered.

Ultimately, I'm absolutely thrilled with the results. The Explorer drives like it did when I bought it 10 years ago - it's like a whole new truck! The popping and clunking is gone, it's on rails now. Absolutely fantastic.

I've got to admit, I was seriously considering getting rid of the thing - fixing up the problem items so that I could offload it for an Expedition, and concentrate on my F-250, but now? I'm in love again!

Many thanks to all for this thread, all of the posts, and all of the answers to my questions!

 

[Explodedford]

ive been looking to do this for a while and now going to order parts im concerned if the es 9.8103g bushinmg nipple is going to fit in the hole of the sway bar and lca. anyone have an issue with this ? it says the nipple Outer Diameter is 7/8 and im pretty sure the hole in the sway bar is not that big for it to sit inside it

 

[kythri]

Once you start tightening everything down, you shouldn't have an issue.

 

[239]

I’m getting a bad clunking and creaking sound when I go over bumps or turn the wheel. I’m definitely building a set of these links next weekend since my stock length links aren’t enough for the lift I got with leveling keys.