Technical Brake Question

[texplorer1994]

I am going to replace my brake calipers and last time I replaced my calipers I drained my master. Some friends of mine and my Chilton's or Hayne's manual indicated that the master should not be drained or it has to be bench bleed. Is this true and if so, after being bench bleed how to I prevent fluid from draining from the master after it has been bleed? Also, how do I prevent the loss of fluid when I change the calipers? Change them quickly? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[2001ExpSport]

Don't drain the master cyl, just use duct tape to seal the line or quickly connect the new caliper. Once you do that you can fudge around with whatever needs to be done. Don't forget to bleed the brakes when your finished. Any excess fliud that may be in the resevior can be removed with a chicken baister(preferably not your mother's..LOL)

 

[Jon_Herr]

If you get air

in to the ABS module then you have to have a diagnostic tool to bleed the system.

Things aren't as easy as they used to be.

Jon

 

[Jon_Herr]

Mistaken

I don't think your year requires a scan tool to bleed, only the bench bleed...

 

[texplorer1994]

I just want to make sure I have this right. If I let the brake line go and let the fluid drain, I am going to have to pull my master and bench bleed it? What about a complete flush...no I do not have an air compressor and I really don't have the money to buy a handheld pump. Any ideas? Thanks for all of the help.

 

[texplorer1994]

Okay...last question was ignored but that's alright. I replaced the pads, calipers and one rotor. I had been having problems with my ABS and I cleaned the sensors behind the rotor and tried to clean the sensor finned contact behind the old rotor. Hsa anyone had luck doing this?

I have bled the brake lines three times, yet the brake light remains lit. How can I solve this? I am going to try to reset that valve and then do another bleed all the way around. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help.

 

[dec322]

hey tex....i wish I could help but I can't ....I just have a question. how much did all the parts cost you and where did you get them? ok. thats two questions. Thanks and good luck.

 

[texplorer1994]

Autozone
Brake calipers $22-$10 core= $11 per caliper
brake rotor $40
O'Reilly's
brake pads-lifetime warranty $0
brake fluid don't remember $5 maybe

TOTAL $56

Next time I am going to replace the bearings and seals. Oh yea, and I am going to get the Warn hub kit with the allen/hex screws...I have manual hubs.

Can anyone help with the other problem? My ABS light has been coming on and I want to know how to fix it. I used to pay money to Ford for them to tell me nothing was wrong. Something is wrong!!!! Any help is appreciated.

If you want a good laugh, call Ford and ask them how much they want for their calipers.

 

[texplorer1994]

Again...simplified...
How do I test for the red brake light being on and how do I find out why the ABS light is on?

ANY HELP?

 

[Jon_Herr]

Code Reader

Dead Link Removed

You should be able to get one of these at your local parts store, like Autozone or Checker to read the ABS brake codes. But...

If your red brake warning light is on as well as the abs warning light then you've got or you had air in the system.

The red brake light indicates a pressure split between the front and rear brake circuits. You can turn this light on when you are bleeding the vehicle if you don't do the longest path first.

Do the RR wheel, then the LR wheel, then RF finally the LF. For reference, the RR wheel is on the passenger side.

Then...

To turn the light off:
The pressure warning switch is like a center off toggle switch and it resides in the 'proportioning' valve. To turn it off you have to create the opposite conditions that led up to the switch setting.

If you had a leak (bleeding) in the rear of the vehicle that set the light then you have to bleed the front to center the switch again.

Be aware that you can push the switch all the way from the existing setting to the opposite fairly easily and it you might get confused. Push the brake pedal gently while watching the light....

Bleed one of the front or rear wheels while watching the light. After a certain amount of fluid escapes from the front or rear the warning light switch should get pushed back to the off position.

Disclaimer: Brake systems are the most important safety item in your vehicle - if you don't feel comfortable doing the work safely then contract it out. Don't take your life in to your hands!

Jon

 

[texplorer1994]

Thanks for the helpful info...the books don't explain it like that.