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The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside...

got a little trim...ing done haha. I think it made a world of difference in the look of the rig, plus now i won't be rubbing fenders with tire, so performance wise its going to be a big leap forward

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I had developed a thump when I took off from a stop, I was pretty sure it was the drivetrain hitting the body somewhere which indicated to me that I had something loose or my trans cmember has some bad bushings. so I got under there and found I had left one of the trans mount bolts was loose. had to take the cmember out completely to fix it but I put in new grade 8 hardware all around. Good to be working the kinks out instead of doing hardcore fab. The very best thing about the working out kinks phase of a build is the fact that you are driving and wheeling the rig. Ive had a blast running around out at my dads house and especially bk I have my kid brother to go with, and show who is boss haha.

it started snowing today and I hope it continues, it will actually make the woods at my dads house interesting to wheel at. As is I can conquer any obstacle out there, I guess we need to get some of the concrete culverts and big rocks and make some more interesting obstacles, that would mean I need to fix my dads tractor with the loader on it though, might be kinda fun.
 






right now im rocking between 4 and 5 deg caster on my rig and its kind of a wanderer going down the road. I think this afternoon im going to go out and give it about 6 deg and test drive to see if the handling improves. as it is right now its not that comfortable to cruise down the road in bk youve got some crazy death grip on the steering wheel to control it. no death wobble or anything like that but there is def room for improvement.
 






got it dead on 6 and that really seemed to help, after I did that I didn't reset the toe though so I think that will probably help too. but at least it comfortable to drive on the road now.
 






im waiting on the mailman to deliver a new multi function switch for the steering column, im having weird issues with my tailights and all indications pointed to that switch shorting out. It pops fuses the second you put them in for the hazard/indicator so as a result ive had no turn signals and only one brake light, all the bulbs are fine so I took the chance and picked the switch up from rockauto.com, they had a closeout and the switch was only 14.99, far cry from the 50 that everyone else wanted.
 






horse wiring

Rookie just went through the multi-evil electron router/knee wacker stalk situation...I have a history (bad) with this better Ford idea & at the 1st. sign of another problem IT is history and I''ll be re-wiring & simplifying.

Really like the way your Bll is looking & sounds like the castor at least has improved it's road manners.
 






its just stuff to refine it now, I don't want to jump into another major phase of building like a larger front axle before I have all the kinks worked out of the current configuration. I really need to do more with gauges, I don't have any of the gauges hooked up currently except fuel, the thought being I was going to replace them with aftermarket gauges and possibly a custom dash. But at this point im impatient and want to drive it, and I need to have the standard gauges hooked up before I go to crazy.

I just went out and put the explorer speedo cable in, the bII one was slightly too short, so now I have speedo action. I think im probably going to run into the parts store and grab a oil pressure and a temp gauge in the analog variety, just so I can keep an eye on the engine, later in life they can be replaced along with the stock dash, should only run me about 35 bucks or so.
 






Got busy drilling the hole for the shortly upcoming ( and needed) doubler.

5" holesaw off ebay ( its a rigid) I think Jon payed less than 20 bucks. Drillpress, plenty of clamps and plenty of lube.

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He can post more showoff pics we went toodling around the woods after we got done.
 












Now thats using a large hole saw correctly & safely...now I can exhale.
 






Now thats using a large hole saw correctly & safely...now I can exhale.

yeah it became immedietly apparent that I was not going to be able to use that hole saw in my hand drill. I wasn't even sure the drill press was going to do it but it did perfect, it worked really well and now I have a 5" hole in my doubler plate. So if anyone needs a 5" hole saw ever let me know, ill prob never use it again haha. good thing is that it wasn't that expensive, I got it on ebay for 13.99 free shipping, they wanted 43$ at home depot or lowes, glad I didn't spend to much.

also got new plug wires on the bII, I had some bogging problems when wheeling esp when the radio was on, sure enough found a big slice in one of the old plug wires when swapping them over, runs like a champ now.
 






Nice flex. I don't think it's as much chebby Ford thing as it is all the work you did in getting your truck to do that. The back tire on the chebby is really off the ground plus yours is even higher up on the hill.
 






That's some nice flex which means a well done build. That Chebby looks like it would tip if it went up another inch.
 






That's some nice flex which means a well done build. That Chebby looks like it would tip if it went up another inch.


Naw not even close to tipping it. I have been close to tipping so many times I am very well aware of when danger is and that wasn't even close.

If Jon couldn't outflex that truck ( bolt on lift kit) I would be very embarrassed for him
 






Naw not even close to tipping it. I have been close to tipping so many times I am very well aware of when danger is and that wasn't even close.

If Jon couldn't outflex that truck ( bolt on lift kit) I would be very embarrassed for him

well honestly I don't think that jimmy would go any higher on that pile, open diff are a biotch. its always fun going out and playing in the woods, even if there isn't a lot of hard obstacles. yeah we all know you wheel more than you go to church so you know when your going to tip, you don't have to rub it in.
 






ive got a problem with my trans cmember, its flexing enough under acceleration to allow the tcase to hit the transmission tunnel. I took the cmember out and checked and it seems the 2 bushings at the framerails and the trans mount itself are all pretty worn out. im going to clearance the tunnel a little bit and then get new bushings, hopefully that stops the problem. I haven't been able to find bushings for the mounts on the framerail, im kind of wondering if I can use a bushing for suspension or a leaf spring or something on it, guess ill have to go measure it.
 






those bushings on the end of the cmember are not replaceable, so it looks like when I but a new trans mount ill just build one, probably out of 1/4" plate, and a matching one for the doubler when it gets built. also went out and took a grinder and hammer to the trans tunnel, it was hitting a reinforcement in the tunnel that is behind the drivetrain when stock, but since the drivetrain is now 3-4 in longer its hitting.
 






If it's hitting now just wait until the doubler goes in there. Glad you found that out.
I had to chain my engine down on both sides of engine. Shifting into reverse caused some conflicts also that's why I had to do the other side of the engine.
 






Transfers

Goes back to my PM about making shock insulated mounting brackets to prevent the doubler case from cracking out. Guys like Rookie (who fotunately didn't bust his Atlas) not trying to be funny Rick, & others who had the very good common sense to ease into new changes to their trucks drive train, get away with it. Many just tightener up and go till it blows. You sir felt, heard, sensed...whatever & started wondering and checked it out. With the weight and torque multiplication of a doubler out there the problem will be exponentially greater than it is now...so even if you "fix it for now" when you "double" what is good enough for now, won't be for then. Still got a link you can go to to see what happens when a D&D machine transfer doubler conversion kit blows (from what appears to be poor mounting design)... and it's not pretty!
 



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