The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside...

[janderson4010]

ok I got the doubler together, here is a little run down in pics on how to put it together, first you put the clocking plate on your back case,

then stand the case up and put the doubler case on it, I had preinstalled the doubler plate onto the case, it is straightforward and bolts together, here is the case standing up,

clock to your desired position and install the bolts, I drilled holes in the shift fork for easier access to the 2 bolts underneath it, shouldn't comprimise strength,

then assemble the components of the doubler case together from the front and tighten the bolts down, I used ultra Grey silicone this time instead of parts store brand, I hope it doesn't leak,

 

[blazinzuk]

Best tool you can get to put this doubler together is a 3/16 allen wrench with a ball end.

Should be lots going on to the bdos here in the next couple weeks

 

[janderson4010]

Best tool you can get to put this doubler together is a 3/16 allen wrench with a ball end.

yeah good call on that, instrumental in getting it put together. If I had used a regular allen wrench id probably still be out in the garage trying to put that thing together.

 

[Kirby N.]

I cut down the short end of an allen so it would be low profile enough to go in there under the shift fork.

 

[janderson4010]

I cut down the short end of an allen so it would be low profile enough to go in there under the shift fork.

yeah duffy himself told me to drill holes in the fork, kind of wish I hadn't wasted my time bk I used an allen that had a shorter end on it to get the one screw most of the way down. probably could have done it without drilling the holes, well actually I most certainly could have since you did haha, its been a long day.

 

[janderson4010]

it runs, it drives, goal for today is to get the shifters built.

 

[Kirby N.]

The only thing I would do different on mine is to make the lever end on the other side of thepivot point from the shifter longer so that the actual shifter wouldn't have to move as much to shft it in. It was hard to keep a boot ob my shifters because thet moved wso far. I cut down the pivot sleeve on my stock shift linkage to fit twp shifters. Then I built the andles out of1/2" rod and tubing for sleeves so I could bend it up and tweek it until it was perfect.

it runs, it drives, goal for today is. to get the shifters built.

 

[janderson4010]

this is what ive got so far, I am going to put the linkage above the pivot so that it is tucked up and out of the way,

this way they will go forward and out of the way when im in double low. good info on keeping the throw short, I hadn't thought of that, it probably would have ended up ok bk I have limited space to go up. but the way I was going to do it the throw on the shifters would have been different from each other, and that just isn't aesthetically pleasing haha.

thanks for the feedback Kirby, btw what trans are you using in your explorer? this m5od has a pretty tall first gear, id like to go to an auto but I can't find a c5 around here. Even with a doubler I can tell that im not geared low enough. once I get going on the dana44 for the front im going 5.13's, and prob 37's or 38's.

 

[Kirby N.]

I was running the M5OD. I went through 2 a4lds and couldnt keep them together, so I swapped in the M5 and it lasted well. I toasted a clutch before the doubler and went to a centerforce. I always said a clutch was easy to replace compared to an auto tranny. I was running 4.56s and 37s. It was a bit tall, but doable with the doubler and it was really nice on the hwy at 85 mph.

Having your linkage above the pivot changes everything! Idk how that will affect throw, but easy enough to experiment. I used little 3/8" heims and allthread for the links between so I could fine tune them. I also wished I would have eliminated the detente for 2hi in the front case, which would have been simple when I had it apart. I planned on that the next time I had it in pieces.

Here is mine:
Double low:

Double high!:

The inside shifter is off a 1350. I just unbolted the handle and cut off the end. The outside one is out of a 1354- same drill. The 1354 shifters are bent out and that gave me enough clearance to run them on top of eachother. The pivot tube on both were like 1.5", so I cut them down to just under .75".

2x4:

4x4 Doubled:

Hope that helps!

 

[janderson4010]

yeah that's my thing is I don't want to run a a4ld, at least not without about 1500 bucks to put in and beef it up haha. Well the above the pivot idea is not going to work, it just to steep of an angle to the shifters, especially to the back case. Kirby you haven't mentioned but have you ever had any trouble with the cases popping out of gear? I'm going to shim the shifters with a few washers to put some pre-load on them, I'm hoping that will be enough.

I didn't get them built, cleaned out the garage and got a few other things done on the bdos, but I didn't make much progress. hoping to turn some wrenches today

 

[rookieshooter]

When I had a 1350 case in my B2 it would pop out of gear. Found that it was in the shifter gate. Once I cut out the stop about a 1/16" further to let the shifter travel further it solved the problem.
Another problem, not that I'm familiar with doublers but somewhere I read that if the cases are not exactly in alignment that it can cause the gears to jump out.
I believe it was in the same post that when the guy started tearing it apart that there was some kind of bind cause the shifter handle suddenly pushed in further once tension was relieved

 

[janderson4010]

quick little vid showing the action on the doubler shifter,

here is the unit itself, kinda ugly but it works pretty well.

and I was working on the shifters for the back when this happened,

kinda wondered how long that little vise was gonna last, guess now ill have to hook it onto my tailgate for trail repairs, it won't swivel but it will at least be there for ujoints and stuff like that.

 

[janderson4010]

looks like the doubler needs to come back out, I've got a couple minor leaks, but more importantly I can clock this thing up at least 6 degrees, and in fact will have to to make the front driveshaft fit in there. no big deal there is still a lot of work to do on it and now that I've driven it a little and did a slow burnout in my garage I'm back ready to continue making it function properly. these things take time.

 

[rookieshooter]

Try sealing with the product called "The Right Stuff". It's the best. Plus I like the way it swells up while curing. It fills all the nooks and crannies ha ha.

 

[janderson4010]

yeah ill look into using that stuff, the main prob was that I didn't wait before torquing it all down, so its just paper thin in there. need to really take my time and wait an hr or so before torquing. the biggest leak is actually coming from the drain plug in the doubler plate, I didn't seal it so ill put some thread sealant on it while I have everything apart.

 

[rookieshooter]

I've used it for a few years and nothing is better. Do exactly as the instructions says. I even use it on my intake manifold for the front and rear gaskets instead of the cork or rubber ones that always leak at the corners.
It's way better then that squeez tube RTV crap.

 

[janderson4010]

where do you pick that up at? auto parts stores?

 

[rookieshooter]

where do you pick that up at? auto parts stores?

Absolutely

 

[janderson4010]

got the cases apart and im in the process of siliconing them and putting them back together, this time im following the instructions to a T. I had a bunch of grey left over or I would have gone and got some of the "Right Stuff".

 

[blazinzuk]

got the cases apart and im in the process of siliconing them and putting them back together, this time im following the instructions to a T. I had a bunch of grey left over or I would have gone and got some of the "Right Stuff".

Jon overestimates