How to: The Comprehensive Brown Wire Mod Thread

[huntersteve61]

I posted in the xfer case thread of my 4hi cycling on any acceleration and was curious if I simply do this brown wire and leave it off... it should stop the 4hi from cycling correct? that would be much cheaper then buying w/e electrical component is shot right? I dont' intend on spinning my tires off I just was curious if this would solve the problem

 

[mahonj]

Do the door jamb...

This is a great post, but I have to tell you... accessing the wire at the door jamb was a breeze and certainly easier, I think, than ripping dash apart...

The door jamb moulding just pulls away, no tools, as does the left-side moulding near the driver's left leg with one clip. For the switch, you'll also want to take the under-dash plastic panel down by removing a couple of screws. Don't take the seat out - not necessary. Lift the rug, and as someone stated earlier, carefully cut the outer wrap on the LEFT HAND harness and the brown wire will pop out at you.

Cut the brown wire, attach each end to separate wires, and run them thru the wire conduit on the floor, and up to the dash to your switch. I chose a lighted switch, which will have 3 connectors: 2 for the brown wire connections, and one ground that you just connect to a metal bolt or screw closeby. I put the switch on the little panel just behind the turn signal lever, so my son wouldn't inadvertantly hit it with his knee getting in and out of the vehicle. This switch required a 1/2" hole to be drilled.

Put it all back together in a few minutes and took it for a ride. Sure enough, in the on position, the switch lights dimly, using the current from the brown wire, which indicated to me that all connections were good. Then spun the rear tires briefly with the switch off. DONE! Thanks!

 

[chris_nether]

Hi,

I had a problem with my 1997 Ford Expy Control Trac 4WD. While deeply turning either left or right at low speed, there were a repeated noise coming apparently from the front and a vibration that almost shakes the vehicle and you can feel it in the weel.

I've read maybe in this or other forums that it could be a bearing or something else in the suspenssion, or a failure in one or both differentials, or different diameter tires installed in the front end. I also read in other thread that this behavior could be related to a bad sensor and when turning to left or right the GEM reads a slippage in wheels and engages the 4WD.

So I basically did the brown wire mod as a start point to figure out what is happening with my truck:

1.I did a drive test, did some deep turns and the vibration and noise were there.
2.I cut the brown wire under the driver's seat.
3.I did a second drive test. The vibration and noise were gone. I'm happy.

Now, I have some questions to all of you, more experienced Explorer owners:

While it can be a workaround, I don't want to have this brown cable mod installed. I want to fix the problem and let the truck work as it was intended to. So I can't figure out what the signals are telling me. What component is not working properly? Torque On Demand relay, Transfer Case Clutch Coil, GEM, other?

Please advice.

Sorry for my english.

I am having the exact same problem with my 96 Ltd. Ed. Explorer - i.e. turning left (more so) or right at low speeds gives a binding wiring noise like the 4x4 is kicking in and you can feel the resistence in the front wheels. I also have the 4x4 lights on the dash blinking periodically. I had the tranfer case rebuilt at a huge cost and no thanks to my mechanic the Explorer is still doing the same thing.

He told me it was the GEM controller and I also noticed that my drivers side window will not go down - controlled by the GEM.

How did your situaton end up? Did you reconnect the brown wire?

Can anyone suggest whether I should just buy a new/used GEM contoller and install it or should I attempt the BWM? Does the BWM stop the 4x4 light flashing on the dash when in 2WD mode?

 

[TB]

Another successful brown wire mod on an 01 XLS. I chose at the door jamb and put a small switch in between the drivers seat and center console. Completely out of the way and it's only me that would find it.

 

[gijoecam]

I am having the exact same problem with my 96 Ltd. Ed. Explorer - i.e. turning left (more so) or right at low speeds gives a binding wiring noise like the 4x4 is kicking in and you can feel the resistence in the front wheels. I also have the 4x4 lights on the dash blinking periodically. I had the tranfer case rebuilt at a huge cost and no thanks to my mechanic the Explorer is still doing the same thing.

He told me it was the GEM controller and I also noticed that my drivers side window will not go down - controlled by the GEM.

How did your situaton end up? Did you reconnect the brown wire?

Can anyone suggest whether I should just buy a new/used GEM contoller and install it or should I attempt the BWM? Does the BWM stop the 4x4 light flashing on the dash when in 2WD mode?

I would suggest you start a new thread in the Transmissions, Transfer Cases, and Differentials section of the forums. You'll get a better response, and it will keep this thread focused on the topic at hand.

Thanks!

 

[austinmob]

My BWM works fine. If your going to fix the total problem, start with some research. Ford released a TSB for a recall to re calibrate a sensor which appears to cause the problem. Yes this prob has been around for a while. From what i read, its a simple reprogramme.

With this in mind, a worn front end, ball joints bushes, control arms etc will contribute significantly to the symptoms that Ford did the recall for.

If your window is not working then you have looked at the wrong brown wire. There are two, you need to access the one that goes directly from the transfer case, up through the floor under the seat. US models is under the drivers seat. if you disconeccted the wiring plug behind the passenger side kick panel then you switch off a whole stack of stuff including the window.

You should find the TSB somewhere on this forum.

 

[chris_nether]

Bwm

Thanks Austinmob. Will definitely do some more research.

Did the BWM today works great! Another satified customer

Thanks Gijoecam!
Great pics lead me all the way...
Well had to do everthing back-to-front, as Austinmob would know, having the righthand drive conversion we recived in Australia. GEM was on the right and upsidedown.

4x4 lights are still flashing on the dash though

 

[austinmob]

My lights dont flash anymore. Dont know why yours do. Maybe you did the wrong brown wire but recieved the same result going in through the other side of the GEM.

 

[dmathews]

I did this and everything worked great but when I spin a tire it jerks alot, is that normal?

 

[Diemondrio63]

Hi Joe...
I have a lighted switch with three blades. The middle one sticks out past the rest. Could you please tell me where each wire should be hooked in relationship to this switch. I have a 95 X and just want to do the 4 HI mod.
Thanks...
Mark

 

[Diemondrio63]

Anyone?

 

[EBexplorer95]

i did the mod for my 95 this weekend. it worked great. my front axle aint banging and clunkin anymore when i try to go offroad.

 

[EBexplorer95]

Hi Joe...
I have a lighted switch with three blades. The middle one sticks out past the rest. Could you please tell me where each wire should be hooked in relationship to this switch. I have a 95 X and just want to do the 4 HI mod.
Thanks...
Mark

hey man. i did it for my 95 EB with a three blade switch. all i did was cut the brown wire, wired both ends of the brown wire to the middle blade, it should be the acc blade, run a ground and a hot to the other blades. thats all i did. piece of cake bro.

 

[Diemondrio63]

hey man. i did it for my 95 EB with a three blade switch. all i did was cut the brown wire, wired both ends of the brown wire to the middle blade, it should be the acc blade, run a ground and a hot to the other blades. thats all i did. piece of cake bro.

Hey man... Thanks. I shall take your advice, I'll keep ya posted!

 

[lvis82]

hey guys, newbe here. love this site. anyway,joe,got a question for you.i have read this thread over a couple times and understand it pretty good, but here is where im confused. in the original post you said (for the 95-96) "connect both brown wires to the center terminal." in post#35 v dub had a drawing where the two brown wires were not connected to the same terminal.
Please help.

 

[eguiyab]

Okay,

This is going to be a really stupid question, but i haven't been on the forum for a few years.

Does this mod help fix the flashing 4wd lights issue at all?

sorry for the noobness.

 

[Xplorer82]

did the BWM today and it was simpler than i thought. seems to be working great. no complaints and oh boy did it feel good to roast them tires (only twice) . not going to make that a habit. i only plan to drive in 2wd on dry pavement and in the rain/snow i'll just set it to auto so i dont feel froggy when its slippery out and tear up my transfer case.

anyway, just wanted to say thanks for the write up it was pretty dang simple once you get into it.

also hit 200k on the clock today, so that made the "roasting" feel that much better haha. Good 'Ole Fords .


thanks.

 

[96 Sport]

Ok guys... I too hated the jerking and clunking from my 96 and found this mod! I went with the door jam and I did remove the seat but I agree it's not needed... I ran my two wires up the kick panel to the dash by the fuse box. You wanna use a SPDT on/on switch.. Single pole dual throw will allow you to hook it up properly.. Yes, you can use a lighted on/off switch and T it in or run both browns to middle and it will work but you will be sending 12 volts the other way also and you dont wanna do that.. You have the brown wire to the transfercase as the output of the switch in the middle and 2 power sources on each side, one is the other end of the brown wire that comes from the truck originally and on the other end, an ouside 12v source, I tapped into the fuse box with some thing that was switched with the key and ran a fused power wire to be safe! Now switched one way it operates as normal... The other way and it applies 12v to the transfercase locking it in and it cant feed power backwards damaging any electrical (if it would?).. I been out playing in the mud all day! I gotta tell ya the fact of not being able to have a locked in 4 hi and the clunking jerkyness was a added reason to try to sell my ride.. I think I may keep it now, pulled the signs out the window and gonna start fixing up my X, I don't know why I joined the forum and not read any posts lol! Thanks guys!!

 

[deernet]

I just read through this entire thread, what can I say, I was bored, and I've gotta say, gijoecam, you have much more patience than me. Replying to everyone's questions like you have, I don't know if I could have handled it.

"I've got a '96 5.0, can I do the bwm?"
"Will I magically get better gas mileage by splicing in a switch?"
"If my front diff is screwed, will the bwm fix it?"
"I'm a master technician, been working for Ford since you were in diapers, boy. You'd best not contradict me when I say I know which transfer case in in a '96 Explorer"

I give you major props on this thread. I was wanting to do it so I could do donuts without 4wd kicking in, while fully understanding the risks of burning clutches in the transfer case, and now I think I've got a full understanding of it. Well, I did after reading the first post, but I got a few laughs anyway.

I plan on doing it next week when I put in my new Alpine. I'll post to let everyone know how it goes, although I don't know how I could go wrong with the detailed instructions you've provided.

Thanks gijoecam!

 

[lvis82]

yeah i would have to second that thought of gijoecams patients. i also read the entire thread and thought the same thing. and is very knowledgeable too. go joe