The right wheel bearing grease

[arseatea]

Putting new wheel bearings on one front wheel of this 04 Sport trac and just finished. But, now I think I used the wrong grease. I was looking for my wheel bearing grease and found a tube that just said "bearing grease for farm machinery, construction machinery, cars and trucks". So, I used it. Then after putting everything back together, I found my jar of wheel bearing grease and those 5 little words 'high temperature for disc brakes'. I'm not sure if I should take it all apart, clean the bearings, and start over of just leave it alone. Is there a good easy way to clean grease from wheel bearings?

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could use brake cleaner spray to remove the old grease, then use the new grease. They also make synthetic grease.

 

[ptf18]

IMHO.... I'ld redo your work. UNLESS you can find about the lube you did use. Was there any more info on that container? SAE number or a mft number that you could "google".

THe hardest part of doing the bearing is removing the old lube. Again IMHO I would use a proper solvent, then a "final" wash with brake cleaner r the like before repacking them with NEW proper grease (grease is cheap)

 

[koda2000]

AutoZone sells Valvoline hi-temp wheel bearing grease labeled specifically for Ford disc brake use. IDK that Ford, Chrysler or GM grease would make any difference, but the hi-temp disc brake part does. Personally, I'd redo the bearings as I doubt tractor grease is rated for hi-temp.

BTW - Why are you just doing one side? The bearings on the other side are probably just as worn.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd repack the bearings also. But avoid the brake cleaner in the bearings. I'd simply repack them, the common way, big glob of grease in one hand, and push the bearing into it. The old grease comes out the other side. It takes some time, maybe a minute or so for each bearing. Use plenty of new grease to pack them, which means you are pushing out the old grease.

A tiny amount of old grease in the bearings will not harm anything, the large percentage of new grease is the goal. But using any solvent will leave some destroyed grease(broken down by the solvent) behind. Any bad grease(by the brake cleaner) left behind is much worse than a small amount of the wrong kind of new grease.

The only right way to use a solvent is to bath the bearing in it, dissolving(removing) all old grease, and blowing out with air. It's not necessary to spend that much time on it, just repack the bearings with the proper grease. If you have a parts washer, great, that would make it simple to completely clean bearings.

 

[arseatea]

Good information. I had convinced myself that because the bearings are in a basically sealed container and the grease could not come out unless the seal failed, it would be ok. But, now, I will spend the time, and redo the whole job. Do it one time right instead of several times wrong. I generally do things twice anyway. One time for learning the wrong way and one time for getting it right. Thanks for all the info and responses. arseatea..

 

[arseatea]

AutoZone sells Valvoline hi-temp wheel bearing grease labeled specifically for Ford disc brake use. IDK that Ford, Chrysler or GM grease would make any difference, but the hi-temp disc brake part does. Personally, I'd redo the bearings as I doubt tractor grease is rated for hi-temp.

BTW - Why are you just doing one side? The bearings on the other side are probably just as worn.

The other side seems to be ok, but I will check it thoroughly.
A

 

[arseatea]

Good repair information for this particular truck (2004 Explorer Sport) is hard to come by. I thought it was a Sport Trac, but that is not on the title. It just says "Explorer Sport". I picked up a book at the library for a 2002-2010 Explorer and Mountaineer but it has zero info on my particular wheel bearings. I think it might be the same as the 2004 Ranger, but not sure. All the videos I have seen are about replacing the hub and bearing assembly which I do not have. This 2-wheel drive is old school with a simple rotor with 2 sets of bearings and removable races. But, that too is the problem. How do you remove the races when there are no lips that I can get to hang a punch on and how tight should I make the large 28MM bolt that holds it all together? These are questions I have yet to find an answer. One guy on YouTube who was working on a Ranger said to just re-use the factory races as they are probably still good. Mine do feel good as there are no worn places that I can find. So, I plan on just re-using them if I have to. The bearings and races and seal from a Ford dealership with employee discount is nearly $100 per wheel, so I need to do this as right as I can before putting it on the road.

 

[koda2000]

The Sport is most like the Gen II ('95-'01) 4 door Explorers. Most all the mechanical parts should be the same as the SOHC V6 4 door. Any auto parts store can look up the parts on their computer, provided you don't call it a Sport Trac. The RockAuto on-line catalog will also be helpful.

Don't buy your parts at Ford if you can help it. Check out RockAuto for mail order, or go to any auto parts store. Timken are a quality bearing. Don't replace bearings w/out replacing the bearing race (will come with a new bearing). Timken bearings will run you around $20.

I've never had any real problem removing old bearing races. They have a small lip that you can get a drift on. For installing the new races, borrow a bearing installer kit from the auto parts store.

The axle nut on the 2WD should not be very tight at all. I tighten them down to snug after installing newly greased bearings, spin the rotor a couple of times then back off on the nut and just let the weight of my wrench drop from the 1:00 position. When installing the new cotter pin, if you find you have to turn the nut to line up the holes, loosen rather than tighten the axle nut a little (too loose is better than too tight). There is a torque spec, but I've never bothered with it. A little loose is required because the rotor and bearings will increase in size a bit once they warm up/get hot.

 

[arseatea]

The Sport is most like the Gen II ('95-'01) 4 door Explorers. Most all the mechanical parts should be the same as the SOHC V6 4 door. Any auto parts store can look up the parts on their computer, provided you don't call it a Sport Trac. The RockAuto on-line catalog will also be helpful.

Don't buy your parts at Ford if you can help it. Check out RockAuto for mail order, or go to any auto parts store. Timken are a quality bearing. Don't replace bearings w/out replacing the bearing race (will come with a new bearing). Timken bearings will run you around $20.

I've never had any real problem removing old bearing races. They have a small lip that you can get a drift on. For installing the new races, borrow a bearing installer kit from the auto parts store.

The axle nut on the 2WD should not be very tight at all. I tighten them down to snug after installing newly greased bearings, spin the rotor a couple of times then back off on the nut and just let the weight of my wrench drop from the 1:00 position. When installing the new cotter pin, if you find you have to turn the nut to line up the holes, loosen rather than tighten the axle nut a little (too loose is better than too tight). There is a torque spec, but I've never bothered with it. A little loose is required because the rotor and bearings will increase in size a bit once they warm up/get hot.

Good information. I do wonder about a Haynes manual. I want to buy one that will work, but those at the parts store are always sealed in plastic. I do a lot of mechanical stuff, but without a manual giving me specs, it is hit or miss..

 

[swshawaii]

Good repair information for this particular truck (2004 Explorer Sport) is hard to come by. I thought it was a Sport Trac, but that is not on the title. It just says "Explorer Sport". I picked up a book at the library for a 2002-2010 Explorer and Mountaineer but it has zero info on my particular wheel bearings..

Are you certain it's a 2004 model? Second generation TWO door Sports were only made from 1995 to 2003.

Per Steve M (EF Sport Trac Moderator)

The 01-03 Sport has EXACTLY the same front end as the 2001-2005 Sport Trac .....NO difference.

They are totally different from the regular 4-door Explorer.

Wikipedia refers to Sports as three-doors.
Ford Explorer - Wikipedia

 

[koda2000]

Are you certain it's a 2004 model? Second generation TWO door Sports were only made from 1995 to 2003.

Per Steve M (EF Sport Trac Moderator)

Wikipedia refers to Sports as three-doors.
Ford Explorer - Wikipedia

I stand corrected.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good repair information for this particular truck (2004 Explorer Sport) is hard to come by. I thought it was a Sport Trac, but that is not on the title. It just says "Explorer Sport". I picked up a book at the library for a 2002-2010 Explorer and Mountaineer but it has zero info on my particular wheel bearings. I think it might be the same as the 2004 Ranger, but not sure. All the videos I have seen are about replacing the hub and bearing assembly which I do not have. This 2-wheel drive is old school with a simple rotor with 2 sets of bearings and removable races. But, that too is the problem. How do you remove the races when there are no lips that I can get to hang a punch on and how tight should I make the large 28MM bolt that holds it all together? These are questions I have yet to find an answer. One guy on YouTube who was working on a Ranger said to just re-use the factory races as they are probably still good. Mine do feel good as there are no worn places that I can find. So, I plan on just re-using them if I have to. The bearings and races and seal from a Ford dealership with employee discount is nearly $100 per wheel, so I need to do this as right as I can before putting it on the road.

Yeah, you have a 3rd gen Explorer. The 2WD front bearings are simple like all older Ford 2WD's. The nut should be only about 1lbsft tight, relatively loose. You can reuse the old races if they look good. Typically the rotors are replaced more often then the races in them need to be.

When the bearings/assembly are all in place, tighten the big nut gently while turning the rotor by hand. A mild torque like 10lbsft is plenty to seat the bearings etc, so that when backed off, there's no slop left. Loosen the big nut and very gently snug it until there is no play in the bearings. It's a delicate tightness, you want the wheel to spin freely, but with new bearings only a hint of dragging. If it's left too loose, the bearings will wear fast, too tight and it gets very hot and will score the races, blue them, heat check etc.

Try to start with the side you haven't touched yet, notice how tight the big nut is before you loosen it.

 

[arseatea]

Are you certain it's a 2004 model? Second generation TWO door Sports were only made from 1995 to 2003.

Per Steve M (EF Sport Trac Moderator)

Wikipedia refers to Sports as three-doors.
Ford Explorer - Wikipedia

Here's what I can tell you. I checked the VIN and it is correct. The title calls it a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Maybe the lady just did not add the "Trac" when she copied the title info for me. The original window sticker with all the options calls it a 2004 Sport Trac XLT prm 4x2, 126" wheelbase, 4.0L Flex Fuel eng, 5-speed automatic O/d trans. The decal inside the drivers door says it is built in 8/03 which would make it one of the last 03's or the first 04's.

I stand corrected.

 

[arseatea]

Here's what I can tell you. I checked the VIN and it is correct. The title calls it a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Maybe the lady just did not add the "Trac" when she copied the title info for me. The original window sticker with all the options calls it a 2004 Sport Trac XLT prm 4x2, 126" wheelbase, 4.0L Flex Fuel eng, 5-speed automatic O/d trans. The decal inside the drivers door says it is built in 8/03 which would make it one of the last 03's or the first 04's.

It does have 4 doors, and a short short bed, little more than 4 ft. It is actually a truck with open bed and not a SUV.

 

[arseatea]

Here's what I can tell you. I checked the VIN and it is correct. The title calls it a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Maybe the lady just did not add the "Trac" when she copied the title info for me. The original window sticker with all the options calls it a 2004 Sport Trac XLT prm 4x2, 126" wheelbase, 4.0L Flex Fuel eng, 5-speed automatic O/d trans. The decal inside the drivers door says it is built in 8/03 which would make it one of the last 03's or the first 04's.

Sorry, when re-reading this, I added the word "Trac" to the title info. It only calls it a Ford Explorer Sport.

 

[swshawaii]

If you have a 2004 four door with a bed it's a Gen 1 (2001-05) Sport Trac. Here's the correct Haynes (36024) manual.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/156392591...80b6-367144ad159c&ie=UTF8&qid=1527182658&sr=2

disc-removal-and-installation.pdf | Manufactured Goods | Vehicle Technology

Ebsco help

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have a 2004 four door with a bed it's a Gen 1 (2001-05) Sport Trac. Here's the correct Haynes (36024) manual.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/156392591...80b6-367144ad159c&ie=UTF8&qid=1527182658&sr=2

disc-removal-and-installation.pdf | Manufactured Goods | Vehicle Technology

Ebsco help

Ditto, you have an 04 Sport Trac, the other paperwork is wrong. The clerical error will cause issues as long as it's called just a Sport. Remember to call it a Sport Trac, the 04 Sport is nothing like your truck.

 

[koda2000]

It does have 4 doors, and a short short bed, little more than 4 ft. It is actually a truck with open bed and not a SUV.

Then always buy parts for a Sport Trac and always refer to it as a Sport Trac and not a Sport. I have an '01 Sport Trac and I find there are unique differences with some parts. My Sport Trac registration and insurance card just say '01 Explorer, which is confusing for me because I also have an '01 Explorer Eddie Bauer, which is also just called an Explorer on my paperwork.

 

[arseatea]

Thanks for all the constructive comments. I went to Advance and got a cheapie $6 bearing greaser, a tube of Valvoline Ford Wheel bearing grease, and a new seal. Cleaned up the bearings as much as I could, and mounted it in the greaser and applied air to my grease gun and forced all the old grease out with new grease. Installed the bearings, and seal and mounted it back on the truck. Tightened the large nut to 10 ft pounds while turning the rotor, then backed off the nut 1/2 turn, and retightened finger tight. Tire is on and I am taking it for a test straight to the shop to have it aligned because I noticed that the inside tread is showing wear. Thanks again..arseatea