Solved What wheel bearing grease to use

[Lee's Automotive]

Hello i am doing a full brake job on my 99 2wd what wheel bearing grease should i use and does it matter if its gm or ford spec?

 

[410Fortune]

I use Lucas Oil sticky red grease
OR
A good marine wheel bearing grease

 

[J_C]

I usually use Mobile 1 Synthetic (red, not moly).

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Also, how much torque does the spindle nut need?

 

[cober]

mobil blue is good

 

[funwithbono]

Hello i am doing a full brake job on my 99 2wd what wheel bearing grease should i use and does it matter if its gm or ford spec?

Red Line CV2 is the very best!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I run Red and Tacky. The nut should be around 175-200lb ft for a AWD/4wd.

 

[RangerNutt]

Hello i am doing a full brake job on my 99 2wd what wheel bearing grease should i use and does it matter if its gm or ford spec?

Also, how much torque does the spindle nut need?

Since it's 2wd, and assuming you're asking about front spindles, it's "finger-tight." Few guidelines if you haven't done this before:

• Torque down on spindle nut before backing off and pinning (eliminates possible play)
• If the castle nut lines up w/ the cotter pin hole at finger-tight and any play is felt, go to the next hole (even though it may seem more than finger-tight)
• Be sure to pack the grease into the bearing cage until it flows out the other end
• Exclude all contaminants (dirt, etc.)

Not a comprehensive list -- maybe watch a few videos?

On the grease, that's like asking which is the best gun cleaner/lube in a firearms forum; get ready for lots of answers. All recommendations here are good, I think. Personally, I selected Mystik No. 2 years ago and have never had a problem on any vehicle.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Since it's 2wd, and assuming you're asking about front spindles, it's "finger-tight." Few guidelines if you haven't done this before:

• Torque down on spindle nut before backing off and pinning (eliminates possible play)
• If the castle nut lines up w/ the cotter pin hole at finger-tight and any play is felt, go to the next hole (even though it may seem more than finger-tight)
• Be sure to pack the grease into the bearing cage until it flows out the other end
• Exclude all contaminants (dirt, etc.)

Not a comprehensive list -- maybe watch a few videos?

On the grease, that's like asking which is the best gun cleaner/lube in a firearms forum; get ready for lots of answers. All recommendations here are good, I think. Personally, I selected Mystik No. 2 years ago and have never had a problem on any vehicle.

How much torque and do I need torque wrench?

 

[RangerNutt]

It's not an exact science so no torque wrench needed, roughly 50-70 ft-lbs. (Others may prefer a higher or lower torque range.) Note this is only to guarantee the re-seat of inline components (read: bearing races) before backing off completely loose and then setting/pinning at finger-tight (to achieve a small axial preload on the bearings, never any play).

The practice comes from the days when more lax (or absence of) quality control allowed spindles released to production with loose (out-of-spec) bearing race seats. (There should always be interference, roughly 0.0005 - 0.001".)

So it's a safeguard against a bearing race that may have moved during handling, cleaning, installation of new seal, etc., and against a replacement race that may not be fully seated.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

It's not an exact science so no torque wrench needed, roughly 50-70 ft-lbs. (Others may prefer a higher or lower torque range.) Note this is only to guarantee the re-seat of inline components (read: bearing races) before backing off completely loose and then setting/pinning at finger-tight (to achieve a small axial preload on the bearings, never any play).

The practice comes from the days when more lax (or absence of) quality control allowed spindles released to production with loose (out-of-spec) bearing race seats. (There should always be interference, roughly 0.0005 - 0.001".)

So it's a safeguard against a bearing race that may have moved during handling, cleaning, installation of new seal, etc., and against a replacement race that may not be fully seated.

Oh ok the factory workshop manual says 17 ft lbs

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh ok the factory workshop manual says 17 ft lbs

For the 2WD front spindle nut, that would be too much torque to lock into it. That's intake bolt tight, which is a lot of pressure on the bearings.

That's about all it needs to seat them, spin the rotor by hand and tighten the nut gently with any ratchet, 10+lbsft or so. Then back it off loose, and by hand gently turn the rotor while snugging the nut to remove all of the play from the bearings. That usually only takes about 5lbsft at the most, then you work at lining up the castle nut holes, and cotter pin. When done the wheel should spin almost freely but not have any looseness, or wiggle of the bearings. Newer bearings need to be slightly tighter than used bearings that are reused(not old and changing a rotor, or just checking it etc).

 

[Lee's Automotive]

I went with Lucas red and tacky and so far, everything is perfect thanks everyone