this rust is better than a weld!

[jgilbs]

ok, so im tryin to remove the hardlines to my rear drums so I can replace them since the bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders are so rusted theres no way in hell I can open them. I try to soak the harlines in PB Blaster at the splitter fitting on the axle, but it doesnt work. I've used vicegrips, line wrenches, and the things still wont budge. I am destroying the splitter rather than the hardlines! How do you people get really stubbornly rusted on parts off? I swear, I would have had an easier time getting these off if they had been welded on!

 

[woodychitwn]

I usually use WD40 on rusted parts. If it's really bad, I spray it on, wait an hour try again and repeat. Eventually I leave it overnight and try again in the morning. But that's worst-case, Usually you can spray it and it works in a few minutes.

 

[jgilbs]

WD40 has never worked for me, neither has PB Blaster(all the parts on my car are just so rusted on!) I would try to heat it - but its just so close to the gas tank I wouldnt want to chance it, not after what happened at Koller Dodge last summer....

 

[SVO]

S-OK, green can white lettering

 

[EMG7895]

Just get a new splitter fitting because the rubber line that connects to the hard line probably isnt in very good condition.

 

[Premier]

I use liquid wrench usually.

 

[jgilbs]

yea, but the fitting that connects the hardline from the RABS valve to the master cylinder is rusted too. It's like if I want to get this done, I'm going to have to replace every component from the master cylinder on down, because everything is so rusted. I want to keep the splitter(rubber hose going to it looks pretty new) but toss the hardlines. I dont care If i have to cut the brake lines at the wheel cylinder to get the cylinders out because I'm replacing them, butif at all possible, I dont want to replace anything before the splitter.

 

[EMG7895]

I would recommend replacing the lines because chances are if everthing else was that rusted your hard lines are going to be pretty bad too. I did a search on the lines and most seem to have broken at the bend right before the hard line threads into the rubber hose.

 

[jgilbs]

well where can I get the proper size brake lines and splitter? napa never gives me the right brake lines(the end fittings are all different)

 

[EMG7895]

Dont get the prebent they will just be harder to install. Go to napa and get a 25ft. coil of 3/16" steel tubing and you need to bring the two different size fittings so you can get new ones. You will need a tubing flarer that accepts 3/16" tube. To install it just take the old lines from the splitter and bend new ones and put the fittings on and flare the ends(all of this cost me $28 with tax). Then to run the line from the engine compartment uncoil the tubing and slide it along the inside of the frame rail and bend it into place in the engine bay (save the clips from the old line) also make sure that you run a bit extra to the engine compartment because it gets full of junk so just cut it off.
If you need any help just ask, i did this a week ago.

 

[EMG7895]

Also the splitter youll have to get it at the dealership (about $45) and on the bracket wher the hard lines conect to the rubber tubing, just cut the hard line and use a screwdrive and small hammer to take the clip off the botton (you may have to hit the bracket a few times to knock the rust off). And the best way to remove the old lines is to cut them and pull them out.

 

[jgilbs]

yea, i think im going to try to just cut the flex hose and then cut the tubes from the splitter to the wheels so I can take the splitter off and put it in a vise to try to remove the old line fittings. you said napa carries coils of brake line?

 

[EMG7895]

Napa carries the coils and with the 25 footer you will have about 2 feet extra. Do not cut the flex hose if you dont plan on replacing the splitter, the hose is built into the splitter and cant be replaced

 

[jgilbs]

is this the flex hose i would need if i cut the flex hose?http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...r=23473764&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=85962648

also, I looked at the brake line from the RABS valve. It looks impossible to remove without removing the driveshaft. also, would i need to drop the tank to run the line?

 

[jgilbs]

SUCCESS!! ok, well only sort of success....
I couldnt get the brake lines from the wheel cylinder(was gonna replace anyways) so I just cut them off about 1/2" past the fitting with my trust Harbor Freight angle grinder(best $20 i ever spent ). also cut the hose between the splitter and the wheel cylinder, leaving about 1/4" of pipe sticking out from the fittings at the splitter(was as close as i could get) so i soaked the fittings with PB then I somehow managed to get my ratchet with 3' breaker bar(read: 3/4" conduit) up and gave it a hard yank and POP! it came free! looks like i dont have to pay that $300 to get it fixed maybe this nightmare will be over by tomorrow's end(knock on wood) best part is i didnt even break the tab that holds the splitter to the pumpkin!(i used a flare wrench as a lever while unbolting the lines, so it took stress off of the tab)

 

[EMG7895]

Im not sure about the RABS valve as i dont have one but you dont have to drop the tank just uncoil the line and push it along the inside of the frame rail, then bend it into place, install the clips and cut and flare the ends.