Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[1991 sploder]

Anxiety for me. I can't drive without hitting neutral at every light just in case I see something so stupid I pass out...cant do alot of things...even grocery shopping is like gonna blow up on someone or hit the floor can still drive though. Don't sleep good either it's 4 am I'll be up by 7.

 

[Scotsman01]

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To be honest I've never operated a motor vehicle in my life Lmao



If I can't joke about it then I can't enjoy life

Sorry , have lttle to no knowledge of what you may go through, but I do know that a sense of humour can make life better. Keep laughing.

 

[CDW6212R]

For the loctite on the bolt threads, make it one drop of blue. Factory puts a lot of loctite on some bolts, and they are often hell to remove(rear drive shaft bolts). The red loctite is for super strong and tight bolts, do not use that. The blue is a mild strength, great for most all small bolts, but one drop is enough.

If the rear needs cleaning, you should do that before installing any parts. Do it after pulling the axles, use old rags etc, as needed, to push through to wipe the inner housing etc. Engine degreaser is helpful sometimes also for nasty grease that brake cleaner would need more of. Always finish with a brake cleaner product type, it evaporates and leaves the least residue behind. It doesn't have to be spotless, you just want all the loose metallic particles out, those will damage bearings.

You don't need to pack the axle seals, the bearings and seals do need a little oil(diff grease) on them, a finger applied amount is good. If you don;t touch the axle seals with the axle when putting them in, the seals will not be hurt. Once you get past the seal and through the bearing, the seals aren't any problem then. Just feed the axle into the diff, do the c-clips etc.

That center pin though, that should not need to be forced in. With everything cleaned, then test fit the pin, without forcing it. See if anything is impeding it's movement into place. If there's a burr or something that can be removed(filed smooth etc), do that before putting a little grease on it and pushing it in.

 

[Scotsman01]

For the loctite on the bolt threads, make it one drop of blue. Factory puts a lot of loctite on some bolts, and they are often hell to remove(rear drive shaft bolts). The red loctite is for super strong and tight bolts, do not use that. The blue is a mild strength, great for most all small bolts, but one drop is enough.

If the rear needs cleaning, you should do that before installing any parts. Do it after pulling the axles, use old rags etc, as needed, to push through to wipe the inner housing etc. Engine degreaser is helpful sometimes also for nasty grease that brake cleaner would need more of. Always finish with a brake cleaner product type, it evaporates and leaves the least residue behind. It doesn't have to be spotless, you just want all the loose metallic particles out, those will damage bearings.

You don't need to pack the axle seals, the bearings and seals do need a little oil(diff grease) on them, a finger applied amount is good. If you don;t touch the axle seals with the axle when putting them in, the seals will not be hurt. Once you get past the seal and through the bearing, the seals aren't any problem then. Just feed the axle into the diff, do the c-clips etc.

That center pin though, that should not need to be forced in. With everything cleaned, then test fit the pin, without forcing it. See if anything is impeding it's movement into place. If there's a burr or something that can be removed(filed smooth etc), do that before putting a little grease on it and pushing it in.

Thanks for the good advice. I have started to clean the axle tubes as first project, they are absolutely filthy with dirty oil scum.
As I was doing it I noticed that the neither of the metal strips (sliders in the manual) that are on the calliper mounts were missing . Have looked high and low and cannot find them. This was the brake the mechanic dismantled, but I found all the other parts but these slippers. Are they integral to the function of the calliper or can I do without them by greasing the mounts themselves. I seem to be taking two steps forward and one back all the time.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the good advice. I have started to clean the axle tubes as first project, they are absolutely filthy with dirty oil scum.
As I was doing it I noticed that the neither of the metal strips (sliders in the manual) that are on the calliper mounts were missing . Have looked high and low and cannot find them. This was the brake the mechanic dismantled, but I found all the other parts but these slippers. Are they integral to the function of the calliper or can I do without them by greasing the mounts themselves. I seem to be taking two steps forward and one back all the time.

Do you mean the stainless steel "sliders" that go on the caliper mounting bracket, there are two of them on each side? If so, you do need those, the caliper will be a little loose without them.

Those are to protect the caliper bracket, and are a wear item that comes with many new pads. So finding them or buying them separately may be interesting there. Check with parts stores first for the rear caliper hardware kit for the 95-01 Explorers. I've never bought those as a kit, but I think they should be available that way. Those SS small parts can be reused, if you had any other source from a used Explorer.

They sometimes fall off when the calipers are removed, so the mechanic didn't necessarily lose them or discard them. They are very easy to put on, by finger or a screw driver, they are flimsy thin metal.

If you are doing the rear brake calipers and pads yourself, go slow at installing the pads. There are four unique pads, there is a left versus right for each side. The difference is the shape of the pad backing plates, at each end. So look at each end of each pad, there are two end types.

One end is made to lock onto the caliper bracket(onto the SS slider). That one has two small tips that hook onto the caliper bracket. The other end of the same pad has only one tip, and that end has to go onto the caliper bracket last. So the caliper bottom end is set down, hooked onto the bottom caliper bracket/slider, and then the upper caliper end slides straight down onto the upper bracket. So the ends of each pair of pads when installed into the caliper, has to match(same end shape as other pad). Place the hooked end of each pad into the lower end of the caliper(lower as it's installed(caliper is vertical when installed)).

Looking at the pads you can figure it out. But without knowing something is different, it's easy to place the pads in the caliper without the ends matching the other pad.

 

[Scotsman01]

Do you mean the stainless steel "sliders" that go on the caliper mounting bracket, there are two of them on each side? If so, you do need those, the caliper will be a little loose without them.

Those are to protect the caliper bracket, and are a wear item that comes with many new pads. So finding them or buying them separately may be interesting there. Check with parts stores first for the rear caliper hardware kit for the 95-01 Explorers. I've never bought those as a kit, but I think they should be available that way. Those SS small parts can be reused, if you had any other source from a used Explorer.

They sometimes fall off when the calipers are removed, so the mechanic didn't necessarily lose them or discard them. They are very easy to put on, by finger or a screw driver, they are flimsy thin metal.

If you are doing the rear brake calipers and pads yourself, go slow at installing the pads. There are four unique pads, there is a left versus right for each side. The difference is the shape of the pad backing plates, at each end. So look at each end of each pad, there are two end types.

One end is made to lock onto the caliper bracket(onto the SS slider). That one has two small tips that hook onto the caliper bracket. The other end of the same pad has only one tip, and that end has to go onto the caliper bracket last. So the caliper bottom end is set down, hooked onto the bottom caliper bracket/slider, and then the upper caliper end slides straight down onto the upper bracket. So the ends of each pair of pads when installed into the caliper, has to match(same end shape as other pad). Place the hooked end of each pad into the lower end of the caliper(lower as it's installed(caliper is vertical when installed)).

Looking at the pads you can figure it out. But without knowing something is different, it's easy to place the pads in the caliper without the ends matching the other pad.

Yes that's the sliders I am talking about, as you said , obtaining them will be interesting. The pads on both wheels are fine and I have not dismantled them, so I can slide them back on. Fortunately I found a new set of shoes for the wheel that had the leak as the originals were thin and soaked with oil. As I said two steps forward one step back. Again thanks for the good advice

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear pads are not very expensive, here, about $40 for very good pads.

The parking brake linings you have noticed I'm sure, those are inside the rotors and often worn out. The parking brake will not work well at all if they are worn down a lot, and they have to be adjusted very very tight to work well. The parking brake pads are easy to do with the axles out, and hell with the axles in. So consider those if needed, and some have been as little as $25 here.

 

[BKennedy]

I used the newer orange thread locker from Permatex when I did some recent axle work. Its recommended by the manufacture for ring gear and carrier bearing bolts. Supposed to have red strength with blue removability.

 

[EB4X]

Anxiety for me. I can't drive without hitting neutral at every light just in case I see something so stupid I pass out...cant do alot of things...even grocery shopping is like gonna blow up on someone or hit the floor can still drive though. Don't sleep good either it's 4 am I'll be up by 7.

I use to have anxiety, coincidentally got a bit the other day after years of none (ut oh) ....anyway.... next time you get it take a tablespoon of honey...it will be GONE in 5 minutes. Also regular doses of walnuts / fish oil / oatmeal and mild dark chocolate (Hersheys) are good for it....SERIOUSLY.

 

[Scotsman01]

I use to have anxiety, coincidentally got a bit the other day after years of none (ut oh) ....anyway.... next time you get it take a tablespoon of honey...it will be GONE in 5 minutes. Also regular doses of walnuts / fish oil / oatmeal and mild dark chocolate (Hersheys) are good for it....SERIOUSLY.

As a scotsman I was brought up on porridge, went back to eating it every day 18 Month's ago, had no stomach troubles since.

 

[Scotsman01]

I used the newer orange thread locker from Permatex when I did some recent axle work. Its recommended by the manufacture for ring gear and carrier bearing bolts. Supposed to have red strength with blue removability.
View attachment 325821

Thanks for the info, will see if available here. So you bite them when you go on a date?

 

[1991 sploder]

I use to have anxiety, coincidentally got a bit the other day after years of none (ut oh) ....anyway.... next time you get it take a tablespoon of honey...it will be GONE in 5 minutes. Also regular doses of walnuts / fish oil / oatmeal and mild dark chocolate (Hersheys) are good for it....SERIOUSLY.

Ut oh haha I learned to avoid all triggers I'm going to pick up some honey [or atleast have someone grab it] I could see that working..medication doesn't do much. Now days I just tell people / usually not a problem probably 3 /5 attacks a week but during those it can get ridiculous sometimes it could last all day for no reason..dripping sweat.most times I'll just be unaware there's a trigger around (ut oh) I have hit the floor passed out get woken up... Usually because someone says something crazy like oh yea...surgery story or things don't go as planned...waiting in line is like automatic instant omg kinda works to my advantage sometimes like mega attention but just sucks. Like I know what I can and can't do depending on the day some days even going to the car wash alone is like...i can do this.. Yea

 

[1991 sploder]

Except honey lol

 

[Scotsman01]

Ut oh haha I learned to avoid all triggers I'm going to pick up some honey [or atleast have someone grab it] I could see that working..medication doesn't do much. Now days I just tell people / usually not a problem probably 3 /5 attacks a week but during those it can get ridiculous sometimes it could last all day for no reason..dripping sweat.most times I'll just be unaware there's a trigger around (ut oh) I have hit the floor passed out get woken up... Usually because someone says something crazy like oh yea...surgery story or things don't go as planned...waiting in line is like automatic instant omg kinda works to my advantage sometimes like mega attention but just sucks. Like I know what I can and can't do depending on the day some days even going to the car wash alone is like...i can do this.. Yea

I appreciate all your stress and I feel I am getting there. I have tried 6 Brake suppliers and two Wreckers to locate and purchase the Calliper "Sliders". The age, not a popular car and the lack of knowledge of it by the local mechanics, all meant it impossible to trace a supply. I found something on eBay but it was in a packet and had little description. New or used it does not matter, single or double does not matter.
You can see I finally have worked out how to transfer photos through my Android phone to my iMac and then to the Forum. The last picture is the metal slider on the holding platform for the calliper.
Unfortunately I have been informed that the calliper will not work properly without both sliders so without it I cannot complete the repair & installation of my Diff
I will gladly pay for a members time/part/ mail costs who can locate and purchase this item for me. A copy of the purchase invoice if applicable, an estimate of the cost to my address in Australia and a reasonable amount for the members time.
I will transfer the amount in US dollars thru my PayPal account to a nominated bank account in USA.
I do not know how to distribute this request to all members of this forum, so if someone can do it I would appreciate it

 

[Mbrooks420]

Abutment clips.

Why are those unusable?

 

[Scotsman01]

Abutment clips.

Why are those unusable?

Sorry, should have said that I was missing only one of the pair

 

[Mbrooks420]

Naw, it’s my bad, it says you need both very clearly.

I’d drop you a set but the shipping would kill ya. Probably be in the $50 range.

 

[Scotsman01]

Naw, it’s my bad, it says you need both very clearly.

I’d drop you a set but the shipping would kill ya. Probably be in the $50 range.

That's the other problem, 50 means 70 for me. But international eBay shows Au$ 20 to 60 on mail, so I guess you would be best to get a quote. Of course your location would affect it. Thanks for the offer

 

[swshawaii]

Brake "hardware kits" are inexpensive and usually stocked in most U.S. auto parts stores. Are Explorers that uncommon down under?

1997 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Disc Brake Hardware Kit | RockAuto

 

[Scotsman01]

Brake "hardware kits" are inexpensive and usually stocked in most U.S. auto parts stores. Are Explorers that uncommon down under?

1997 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Disc Brake Hardware Kit | RockAuto

Explorer has a nickname of. "exploder" here with mechanics, gives you an idea. We are pretty tough on our 4x4's here. Mine is 4litre 6 cyl manual.

Thank you so much for giving me the proper description to use . The minute I used that description in eBay an Ozzie supplier came up with a kit for AU$ 50 including express delivery from Melbourne Victoria. The magic word was "kit" and supplies new boots and sliders for two Callipers. Guys I am moving forward again, Thanks to you all