Thumping noise in front end at low speeds...

[breshi]

Just ask them to look at the lower control arm bushing. That fixed my problem, pronto. I had the same sound , especially when driving over a rocky parking lot.

Man, I sure hope you get it fixed soon because that noise drove me crazy.

The front control arm bushing can be purchased as a separate part. A good brand (such as Moog) is around $67 at a parts store.

 

[breshi]

If you can believe this, I've had two dealerships and one independent look the entire front end over. They found nothing. At this point, the struts & strut mounts, wheel bearings, drivers axle, sway bar bushings and sway bar end links have all been replaced. I have to laugh - there just isn't much left up there!

Do you happen to have the part numbers for what they replaced? I see online you can replace the entire right front control arm for $105 and then the rear mount for the arm is $65. Replacing the entire arm allows me to replace the control arm bushing itself, but the ball joint, too, as it's included in the arm. It appears to be all plug n play.

For $170 in parts, and likely at least that in labor, I'll give it a try. I'm just curious what parts were replaced on yours, specifically. Once that's done, I just don't know what else it could be. There's nothing left!

Thanks,
Shumax

Just a warning about cheap parts. I've used a cheap aftermarket control arm before. The ball joint became loose in about 6 months. I ended up having to replace it. I paid more and used a good brand such as Moog.

 

[breshi]

I just bought a pair of moog bushings and couldn't get the old ones off. Has anybody replaced the lower control arm bushings themselves?

 

[breshi]

I replaced the lower control arm bushings today with Moog bushings. The thumping is gone. Problem solved.

 

[SHUMAX]

How many miles do you have on the vehicle? Did you replace the lower control arms, only, or the rear hydro bushing (the LCA mounts to this) too?

 

[breshi]

How many miles do you have on the vehicle? Did you replace the lower control arms, only, or the rear hydro bushing (the LCA mounts to this) too?

My Ex has around 45K miles. The thumping actually started around 25K miles. I replaced the rear bushings only. It was a PITA doing the bushings only. they are pressed on. Replacing the entire LCA would be easier. I could definitely tell that the Moog bushing was stiffer than the OEM.

 

[SHUMAX]

Thanks. The rear bushing looks straight forward, no? Two bolts and it comes off and put the new one on. Am I missing something. Was it tough to get the arm out of that bushing or did it slide off?

 

[breshi]

Thanks. The rear bushing looks straight forward, no? Two bolts and it comes off and put the new one on. Am I missing something. Was it tough to get the arm out of that bushing or did it slide off?

Not really. Had to take the entire arm out which was easy. the bushing is pressed on the LCA. I used a bushing removal tool which wasn't an exact fit tool for this. A press would be best. replacing the entire arm would be easier just more expensive.

 

[SHUMAX]

Not really. Had to take the entire arm out which was easy. the bushing is pressed on the LCA. I used a bushing removal tool which wasn't an exact fit tool for this. A press would be best. replacing the entire arm would be easier just more expensive.

I thought I was following it, but now I am not so sure. I looked at a picture online. The front bushing appears to be pressed in. The rear looks like it has a prong/arm that slips into that rear bushing that mounts to the sub frame. So, I could see that FRONT bushing that's part of the LCA being a PITA to get out. The rear arm/prong that slips into the rear bushing? I would have assumed that slid right in and would be straight forward to get out. No?

Is the ball joint on these a pinch style in that a bolt/nut pinches the ball joint into the knuckle, or is it the type that you have to "pop" out with a separator?

I replaced the LCA's on my wife's 2007 Edge and it had the pinch type for the ball joint - loosen the nut/bolt and the ball joint basically dropped down. From there, unbolt the front bolt into the LCA. Remove the two bolts on the rear bushing and the LCA almost fell out.

My 2011 is what caused all the drama listed above. In the end, I got rid of it; however, I suspect the thumping I had was related to the LCA and/or the rear bushing as they were eventually replaced. The thumping and shimmy went away, but a loud clank developed over bumps at low speeds, which I believe was the front sway bar links. Never found out as I got rid of it.

My 2014 Sport has new struts and strut mounts in the front at 38k as the struts were leaking at 38k - wow! It now has 42k. Every once in a while, I get a knock in the front end, low, that sounds like the sway bar links loosening up. I'm also gun shy about thumping and shimmy after having dealt with the 2011 for months on end. Before long, I'm sure I'll be faced with that and plan to just replace the LCA's, rear bushings and the sway bar links all at once. They aren't that expensive and it's nice to have that new car feel back.

Thanks again for the input.
Shumax

 

[breshi]

I thought I was following it, but now I am not so sure. I looked at a picture online. The front bushing appears to be pressed in. The rear looks like it has a prong/arm that slips into that rear bushing that mounts to the sub frame. So, I could see that FRONT bushing that's part of the LCA being a PITA to get out. The rear arm/prong that slips into the rear bushing? I would have assumed that slid right in and would be straight forward to get out. No?

Is the ball joint on these a pinch style in that a bolt/nut pinches the ball joint into the knuckle, or is it the type that you have to "pop" out with a separator?

I replaced the LCA's on my wife's 2007 Edge and it had the pinch type for the ball joint - loosen the nut/bolt and the ball joint basically dropped down. From there, unbolt the front bolt into the LCA. Remove the two bolts on the rear bushing and the LCA almost fell out.

My 2011 is what caused all the drama listed above. In the end, I got rid of it; however, I suspect the thumping I had was related to the LCA and/or the rear bushing as they were eventually replaced. The thumping and shimmy went away, but a loud clank developed over bumps at low speeds, which I believe was the front sway bar links. Never found out as I got rid of it.

My 2014 Sport has new struts and strut mounts in the front at 38k as the struts were leaking at 38k - wow! It now has 42k. Every once in a while, I get a knock in the front end, low, that sounds like the sway bar links loosening up. I'm also gun shy about thumping and shimmy after having dealt with the 2011 for months on end. Before long, I'm sure I'll be faced with that and plan to just replace the LCA's, rear bushings and the sway bar links all at once. They aren't that expensive and it's nice to have that new car feel back.

Thanks again for the input.
Shumax

You are correct on what you are seeing. the rear bushing does slide on to the LCA which is a square prong. the issue is that it is such a tight fit, it takes a special tool or a press to get it off/on.

the Ex's LCA is basically the same as your Edge. the ball joint is basically a bolt (no pickle fork needed), one through bolt for the front bushing and 2 bolts that sandwich the rear bushing bracket into the sub frame.

Replacing the entire LCA would be an easier route. just more expensive.

Boy, that's crazy that your struts were leaking so soon. I can't help on the loud clanking. I hope I don't ever get that.

 

[SHUMAX]

You are correct on what you are seeing. the rear bushing does slide on to the LCA which is a square prong. the issue is that it is such a tight fit, it takes a special tool or a press to get it off/on.

the Ex's LCA is basically the same as your Edge. the ball joint is basically a bolt (no pickle fork needed), one through bolt for the front bushing and 2 bolts that sandwich the rear bushing bracket into the sub frame.

Replacing the entire LCA would be an easier route. just more expensive.

Boy, that's crazy that your struts were leaking so soon. I can't help on the loud clanking. I hope I don't ever get that.

I agree. I was shocked to see them leaking oil (badly) after 38k. The dealer acted like it was almost common! Ugh.

Glad the LCA bushings solved your issue...

Shumax

 

[NWFury]

Ok, after reading, I've been chasing this same rattle for weeks on my 2013 Ex Sport. I know this thread is old but if someone like me finds it, I hope it Helps....

The rattle/hollow sound happens when I go over small bumps or a dirt road.

I've replaced everything on the front end and it's so quiet now, it made the sound I've been chasing more prominent.

Here is the list of parts I replaced prior to finding this issue.
- Lower Control Arm + All Bushings
- Sway bar bushings
- Sway bar Links
- Full Springs and Strut assembly
- Driver side CV Axle
- Inner/Outer Tie Rods

- Rear Sway bar links
- Rear Shocks
- Rear Wheel Hub/Bearing(for noise, not this issue)

I just found while replacing the driver side inner tie rod that a bushing/seal just inside the steering rack, under the boot around the inner tie rod, had worn out and split in half. It's a busing with metal washer on the outside, a rubber inner core and another metal washer. It goes around the lateral arm of the rack an pinion steering system... the threaded part that links to the steering column... There was crusted/crumbled rubber all over the inside of the boot

The outer wash(which should be flat) was concaved and is probably the source of my ping i get when turning hard to the right. the washer getting caught in the vertical steering rod grooves and then popping loose with more tension...

After finding issue, I started playing with the steering. I can hear the same hollow clunking sound when I turn the steering wheel back and forth abruptly(with the car on and doors closed) as when drive over small bumps or a dirt road when.

This is not a part that you can buy or replace from what I can tell and Ford says you have to replace the entire steering rack... Manufacturer won't sell this part to you direct...

SO, replacing the steering rack is next on the list but I won't be sure until I swap it out... I'm 98% sure this will fix the hollow rattle, but that's what I told my wife about the other $900 worth of parts I put on her car so we'll see....

 

[peterk9]

^^Welcome to the Forum.
Please keep us updated on this. Thanks.

Peter

 

[mguy13sport]

Rock Auto has rack assembly for 800. No clue on shipping.

2013 FORD EXPLORER 3.5L V6 Turbocharged Rack and Pinion | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Do you have the auto park assist?

Also may need to program the new unit using ForScan

 

[peterk9]

Rock Auto has rack assembly for 800. No clue on shipping.

2013 FORD EXPLORER 3.5L V6 Turbocharged Rack and Pinion | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Do you have the auto park assist?

Also may need to program the new unit using ForScan

It also shows Out of Stock.

Peter

 

[mguy13sport]

It also shows Out of Stock.

Peter

They had one in stock last night.. otherwise i wouldn't have posted it. Wonder if he bought it haha

 

[NWFury]

Ok, after reading, I've been chasing this same rattle for weeks on my 2013 Ex Sport. I know this thread is old but if someone like me finds it, I hope it Helps....

The rattle/hollow sound happens when I go over small bumps or a dirt road.

I've replaced everything on the front end and it's so quiet now, it made the sound I've been chasing more prominent.

Here is the list of parts I replaced prior to finding this issue.
- Lower Control Arm + All Bushings
- Sway bar bushings
- Sway bar Links
- Full Springs and Strut assembly
- Driver side CV Axle
- Inner/Outer Tie Rods

- Rear Sway bar links
- Rear Shocks
- Rear Wheel Hub/Bearing(for noise, not this issue)

I just found while replacing the driver side inner tie rod that a bushing/seal just inside the steering rack, under the boot around the inner tie rod, had worn out and split in half. It's a busing with metal washer on the outside, a rubber inner core and another metal washer. It goes around the lateral arm of the rack an pinion steering system... the threaded part that links to the steering column... There was crusted/crumbled rubber all over the inside of the boot

The outer wash(which should be flat) was concaved and is probably the source of my ping i get when turning hard to the right. the washer getting caught in the vertical steering rod grooves and then popping loose with more tension...

After finding issue, I started playing with the steering. I can hear the same hollow clunking sound when I turn the steering wheel back and forth abruptly(with the car on and doors closed) as when drive over small bumps or a dirt road when.

This is not a part that you can buy or replace from what I can tell and Ford says you have to replace the entire steering rack... Manufacturer won't sell this part to you direct...

SO, replacing the steering rack is next on the list but I won't be sure until I swap it out... I'm 98% sure this will fix the hollow rattle, but that's what I told my wife about the other $900 worth of parts I put on her car so we'll see....

So after taking the car to the ford dealer and telling them what was wrong, they confirmed that the steering rack was the issue and needed replacement. They said $1600 for the rack and $1150 for installation & alignment but the part was out 3 weeks.

I ended up ordering a steering rack from CarID, which is simply a remanufactured stock unit by Vision-OE (which is actually reman'd by BBB Industries)... The unit was $1150 w/ tax & Shipping w/ a $300 core charge.

I received the unit and delivered to my Ford Dealer who installed it and then their software couldn't program the new unit. I worked with the tech and we tried everything we could think of and we couldn't get the unit to program...(Even after plugging in the power cable which they mysteriously left disconnected)... I took screen shots & pictures of their installation and sent to CarID which immediately approved a return.

Ford still said 3 weeks for a new unit which I'm still waiting for and my Return is due back to Car ID by 10/1... Still not fixed but this is the update so far. more to come!

 

[peterk9]

I don't know what kind of warranty a remanufactured unit has but keep in mind that an OEM unit is warrantied for 2 years, unlimited mileage.

Peter

 

[NWFury]

Parts finally showed up at the dealership where the explorer has been sitting for the past 7 months. New steering rack is installed and the sound is gone. Between no clunking and new suspension, it's like driving a brand new car.

Good luck everyone!

 

[peterk9]

Parts finally showed up at the dealership where the explorer has been sitting for the past 7 months. ......................................................

Good luck everyone!