Time to give in to tranny?

[greg s]

First of all, thanks to Chris for all his help. 97 explr 5r55e My problem has been a delayed and harsh reverse. It doesn't happen everytime but has become more frequent. It is a very hard and loud shift that sometimes happens immediately sometimes after the truck has moved back 5-10 feet. It is so harsh that it split the end of the reverse servo. The trans performs great going forward, up shifts fine, good shifts, no flashing OD light no check engine light, no burnt fluid, no parts in the pan. The only other thing it does is when it is down shifting as I am coming to a stop I can hear it clunking at each shift. It is not loud, you have to listen for it. This is what I have done to date. Installed Ford separator plate and kit per bulletin, installed Superior shift kit with double lip reverse servo seal, purchased a used valve body from a 99 complete with all solenoids, and normal fluid and filter change, and replaced damaged reverse servo. The original gaskets and vb was tight and no torn gaskets. None of this has changed the problem but it probably shifts a little crisper. I have reached the point that I dont know what else to do and I am not in the position to remove the trans and work on it. If anybody has any other suggestions I would appreciate them as my only other choice is to take it to a trans shop.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Greg, sounds like you've already been through anything I might suggest......When you installed the Superior kit, did you drill out the two separator plate holes as per the Superior instructions?

Since you've replaced the valve body with no change in the symptoms, I tend to eliminate anything valve body related. That leaves the separator plate and servos......?

Have you tried adjusting the bands?

ROE

 

[greg s]

I did drill out the holes per the instructions. I have not adjusted the two front bands as I figured they did not have much to do with reverse. The reverse band is tightened by the reverse servo and has no adjustment. The other valve body came complete with all the solenoids that I tested with an ohm meter and they all checked out fine. I did not want to swap any of the originals to help rule them out.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Greg, I've read through some of your previous posts, and remember your problem. Since Glacier's suggestions didn't have any effect, I'm kinda stumped for sure.

One thing that stood out when I read the posts, was that you said there wasn't a spring for the low/reverse servo. I thought there WAS one in mine, but can't remember for sure, and I've misplaced my ATSM book. I'll look for it and try to confirm, unless Glacier or someone knows for sure.....

Another thing that comes to mind is the TPS. If you haven't already, I'd check it's output just to rule it out. It's signal is used by the PCM to time the shifts. When it bangs into reverse, is this after the throttle has been advanced? If so, that would lend more credence to a bad TPS signal.

This is a tough one.......

 

[Glacier991]

Certainly would be nice to hook up the transmission tester and see what effect (if) any) the computer might be having.

 

[greg s]

That is an interesting idea that I had not thought of. I had run on OBD II scan before I had started on any of this just because a friend had a scanner and loaned it to me. The truck's MIL has never been on nor the flashing OD light. The scan did not bring up any codes either. Would someone have the values and procedure to test the TPS? I drove it home last night and probably stopped 2-3 times which required me to back out of a parking space and it worked perfectly, today it will probably do it everytime! Thanks for all the help and Happy Thanksgiving

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Would someone have the values and procedure to test the TPS? I drove it home last night and probably stopped 2-3 times which required me to back out of a parking space and it worked perfectly, today it will probably do it everytime!

Greg, since the banging reverse is so erratic, I'd pour a bottle of LubeGard Red in the trans, and see if that changes anything. If a valve is sticking, the LubeGard might free it up. (I added a bottle when I did the trans work on mine; it's one of the few additives that really does work.)

The (97 SOHC) TPS has a three-wire connector, of which the center wire is the signal wire. The outside wires are the ground, and 5v reference wire. Disconnect the plug, and backprobe the outside wires to locate the ground wire with the key off (it'll have continuity with the engine block). Once the

ground is found, the other outside wire is the 5v reference.

Then probe the reference wire for 5v with the key on. Next, plug the wiring back in to the TPS, and backprobe the center/signal wire with a straight pin. Take the reading off the pin with the key on, and throttle closed. It should read 'about' 1v. Then advance the throttle with the key on engine off, and watch the meter. It should advance SMOOTHLY to about 4-5v at wide open throttle. This is best shown with an analog meter. If the movement is erratic, then the TPS is worn and should be replaced.
luck,
ROE

 

[greg s]

I will give the TPS a check. Noticed yesterday while I was driving that when I switched the overdrive on and off that the light did not come on. It performed the shift ok as it turned 5th gear off and back on. Later after the truck had been shutoff the light functioned fine. I wonder if it can be some type of intermttent connection or brocken wire? I have a bottle of lubeguard but was waiting to see if anything changed before I used it. Another day that it did not bang in reverse but I still notcied the thumping noise as it downshifts to a stop. Sounds like 4-3 and 3-2 are the most noticable.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Another day that it did not bang in reverse but I still notcied the thumping noise as it downshifts to a stop. Sounds like 4-3 and 3-2 are the most noticable.

Greg, if you hadn't already changed out the valve body, I'd say you had a sticking modulator valve. But since the valve is integral to the valve body, and you've changed it, I'm at a loss.....

If the TPS signal is bad (at closed throttle), that might possibily cause the rough downshifts. To be honest I doubt it, but I'd check the TPS anyway.

Did you use the trans thermostat blockoff spool that was included in the Superior kit? And does the rough shifting coincide with trans fluid temperature?

I have no idea about the OD light working/not working. These things are usually caused by a poor ground circuit, loose bulb, etc. You might try spraying the OD switch with some WD-40. (Duct tape and WD-40 will fix almost anything ).

No answers here, just throwing out some thoughts.....

ROE

 

[greg s]

I did install the temp blockoff part. The noisy downshift is all the time when its cold or hot. It went for three days before the reverse banged, then it did it twice in a row. Another odd electrical thing happened the other night. I left my wife in the car while I went into a store for about 10 minutes. The doors where locked and the car shutoff when the dome light came on, like when you lift up on a door handle while the car is locked, but she said she did not see anybody around. I am going to take a look around at the wiring and connections. If I cant find something I will probably take it to a trans shop and see what they can find.