Tools for removing front AWD driveshaft? (for towing)

[JoshT]

Hello, I'm going to be looking at a couple of potential 1999-2001 AWD donors in the near future, even if these fall through hopefully I'll find something within the next year. Running or not I'm flying solo, so my best option for getting a potential donor home will be towing behind the F-250. I know ideal would be loading it in a trailer, but ideal isn't always available. I may be limited to a two wheel tow dolly which would necessitate removing a driveshaft.

I don't have an explorer here to check, so can anyone tell me what tools are needed to remove a front AWD driveshaft?


Alternatively could remove the rear, but that leaves the transmission open for fluid to pour out.

 

[crunchie_frog]

8 mm closed end wrench and or 8 mm socket with extension and ratchet to remove the 6 bolts connect the drive shaft to the transfer case, t30 torx bit and ratchet and extension that connect the drive shaft to the front differential. I would take a small hammer as well to tap the driveshaft loose at both ends. Chocks to put behind rear wheels when you have it up on the two wheel tow dolly (or you can use ramps) so you don't accidentally run over yourself. You may need to put it in neutral and roll the vehicle/drive shaft to make it easier to access some of the bolt heads.

A lot of these will already have the front drive shaft removed either due to transfer case issues, bad CV joint or bad U joint and owners just keep running them this way after they remove the drive shaft.

 

[410Fortune]

Removing the rear d shaft does not leave the transfer case open to leak, these trucks do not use a slip yoke transfer case, they have a flange and the slip yoke is in the rear d shaft
Removing the rear shaft is the best approach

12mm 12 point impact socket, wobbly extension and good impact I can have rear d shaft out in minutes
Jack to get rear axle up in air makes things easier

 

[JoshT]

8 mm closed end wrench and or 8 mm socket with extension and ratchet to remove the 6 bolts connect the drive shaft to the transfer case, t30 torx bit and ratchet and extension that connect the drive shaft to the front differential. I would take a small hammer as well to tap the driveshaft loose at both ends. Chocks to put behind rear wheels when you have it up on the two wheel tow dolly (or you can use ramps) so you don't accidentally run over yourself. You may need to put it in neutral and roll the vehicle/drive shaft to make it easier to access some of the bolt heads.

A lot of these will already have the front drive shaft removed either due to transfer case issues, bad CV joint or bad U joint and owners just keep running them this way after they remove the drive shaft.

Thank you.

Sounds like this one still has the front driveshaft since AWD and a bad front axle shaft is mentioned in the listing. Bad axle is part of the reason I'm planning to tow instead of drive, the other part being that getting a second driver can be difficult on spur of the moment.

If not, I probably won't be buying it since that is definition of the major parts I'm going to need.

Removing the rear d shaft does not leave the transfer case open to leak, these trucks do not use a slip yoke transfer case, they have a flange and the slip yoke is in the rear d shaft
Removing the rear shaft is the best approach

12mm 12 point impact socket, wobbly extension and good impact I can have rear d shaft out in minutes
Jack to get rear axle up in air makes things easier

Yeah, I wondered about that not long after posting.

When making this thread I was picturing the 2WD Explorer transmission I have that uses a slip yoke. Realized later that I was talking about one with a transfer case and it might be bolt in.

Figured it's probably the same as my 99 4x4 Ranger. Knew it was 12 point 12mm on the axle end, couldn't recall how it attached on the transmission end. Due to medical restrictions it'll be tomorrow before I could crawl under there and look, and they are calling for storming all weekend.

Being bolt in, removing the rear is definitely preferred option. Be better than dragging it in neutral and hoping that it stays there. Hell, even if it was slip yoke, still probably better to disconnect from rear axle and tie up rather than having to worry about transmission.