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To cam or not to cam? 4.0 OHV

Really? I thought 95 and 98 had the same combustion chamber. Doh!
Not much I can do about it now. Be another $500.00 to change heads.
 



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Really? I thought 95 and 98 had the same combustion chamber. Doh!
Not much I can do about it now. Be another $500.00 to change heads.

OPPSS SORRY FORGOT THAT YOU HAD 98,YEA THEY ARE THE SAME:rolleyes:you would have to change pistons.yea you can shave them but dont think it will make much difference for the cost of doing it and price of rods
 






Thanks JD. Im just exploring options since I'll have both heads off again anyway.
Here is what a side by side looks like on my lower intake. I've included a pic showing how the upper part doesn't really need much work. I did touch up the unside though, without blowing thru the walls and epoxying. Way to much work for me.
 

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Thanks JD. Im just exploring options since I'll have both heads off again anyway.
Here is what a side by side looks like on my lower intake. I've included a pic showing how the upper part doesn't really need much work. I did touch up the unside though, without blowing thru the walls and epoxying. Way to much work for me.

damn man you did a good job:thumbsup:yea the upper really doesnt need much if any.you should port the one that comes off the truck and sell it.you going to smooth it out any.did you just port match it or did you do the whole runner?
 






another thing,what tb&maf you running?and this is off subject but your running projectors with hid in a stock housing?thats on my list of things to do
 






The Maf is stock.
The TB is stock with the half shaft mod.

I did a buy from the same guys that did the group buy almost 2 years ago now. Full housings. I really need to take a picture of my X and post it.

I made it up the runner about 2 inches from the bottom, then I touched up from the top. I really didn't want to blow thru the outside wall. Im sure its not as thorough a job as you have, but way better than it was. Took about 4 hours. My compressor isn't really up for the task so there was wuite a bit of wait time.
 






after you measure for pushrods any youre sure you have it correct. if its 5.525", i have a set of them, smithbros.

new are $95, ill take $75, i only had them in for 100miles trying to figure out my issues that ended up being the forgotten coolant plug in the head and valve stem seals lol
 






The Maf is stock.
The TB is stock with the half shaft mod.

I did a buy from the same guys that did the group buy almost 2 years ago now. Full housings. I really need to take a picture of my X and post it.

I made it up the runner about 2 inches from the bottom, then I touched up from the top. I really didn't want to blow thru the outside wall. Im sure its not as thorough a job as you have, but way better than it was. Took about 4 hours. My compressor isn't really up for the task so there was wuite a bit of wait time.
what did you buy?yea i was going to say do the tb mod and might wanna do a 5.0 maf.yea you did a great job man looks real good,biggest place is near that injector and bottom runners.with that porting and new valves you should feel a little difference in power;)i still would have done the 422 cam though,way more power.have you measured the pushrods you have?if they are 5.525 or shorter you can get away with shaving your heads and use the same rods.even if they are 5.550 they would work but your lifters wouldnt have much or any play in them,any larger the valves would stay open
 






ooo dang it again i forgot you have a 2000 nevermind,im going to do projectors in my fist gen lights hahah
 






I'd have done the 422 cam if I could have brought up my compression to a reasonable level. I just couldn't see how to do it without pulling the motor and dropping different pistons in. With the auto tranny and low compression, it just didn't make sense for me.

I think I'll pull the heads, install the new valves myself, and then take them to the machine shop to test for leakage areound the valves (Apparently they have a machine for bench testing). At that time I'll inquire about shaving.

Also, on the push rod issue, Delta did tell me I could use the factory length push rods with their cam. They did recommend longer rods though.

I have the longer Delta rods(currently using), and a set of new factory length already.

Hmmmm...........What to do, what to do.....
 






There is no possible way you can use stock rods.i don't k.ow why the tell people that.they are morans! !!in order to make a cam they have to start with a lobe that is .050 smaller witch means the rods will be around .050 short.so many threads out about bow they tell people stock will work and then it doesn't
 






I wonder if I could have push rods rushed in. Hmmm.............
My new head just showed up. No si valves yet.

Im tempted to pull the valves off the head this weekend and lightly round the casting around the valve hole. I understand in basic porting techniques this is easy to do and nets a good gain.

Then the one head is ready for the si valves.
 






Wish I knew what Delta shipped with their F40 kit and cam for push rod length. That would tell me for sure what I need if I shave my head.
Maybe I'll try calling/emailing them.
 






after you measure for pushrods any youre sure you have it correct. if its 5.525", i have a set of them, smithbros.
I won't be measuring. I don't have confidence in my ability to do that.

If I can get info on what I currently have, and yours will work for me, Ill defintely purchase from you.
 






So, Delta sys their oversized push rods are 50 over stock. Stock push rods are 5.475.
So that means the Delta's are 5.525. Correct?

That would mean with shaving .020 off the heads, the new length required would be 5.505

Geez, I feel like I'm splitting hairs.
 






This is where it gets tricky.by spec yes they should be .5.525 buttttt most motors need 5.550 to **** them up.i would not go any shorter,pretty sure i run 5.525 with my shaved heads.you can search and there is a really good thread with pics on how to port the heads.you can port just about anything out of them just be careful not to touch the seats.ps there is a difference in 98 & 95 heads in stock form the 95 have larger exhaust ports and flow better.take and port match yours to what gasket you will be running.
 


















what is 'shaving heads'? taking off a thin layer of the bottom of the head(headgasket surface)? or is it something else?

Yep
 



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what is 'shaving heads'? taking off a thin layer of the bottom of the head(headgasket surface)? or is it something else?

Exactly. You shave some material off the bottom of the head. This makes the combustion chamber smaller, raising your compression ratio.

Yes, I knew the exhaust exit ports were smaller, but as I read it didn't seem to be a huge deal. I guess I was wrong. I think I will take the time to port match, and do a basic port job outlined in the document you posted the link to.

It wouldn't take long at all to smooth off the rough edges that cause the most flow restriction. Specially since the valves are coming off anyway.
 






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