cherrybomb
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- April 1, 2005
- Messages
- 255
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Southern California
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '99 EB 5.0L (R.I.P)
UPDATE: Traction-Lok Rebuild/Upgrade
***UPDATE: I went ahead and rebuilt the diff with the +1 clutch "mod". Ended up not needing any shims, even with the .025 shim in place, it was too much.
In dis-assembling it, I did find a single clutch where one of the little "ears" which keep them from rotating with the side gears was broken, so it's a good thing that I rebuilt it, if only to fix that problem.
Because I have the 3.73 it made re-installing the "S-spring" difficult, so I left it out!
I filled it with 3 full quarts of 85-140 Dino oil for the 500 mile break in of the clutches.
When I go back in, if I feel I need to, I may re-install the "S-spring".
For sure though I'll be replacing the pinion seal, installing a Trick Flow diff cover/girdle, and filling it with 75-140 synth oil.
Impressions:
Overall, it feels pretty much like it did before the rebuild/upgrade. I can notice a slightly more positive "lock-up" of the diff when downshifting at freeway speeds, but it's only a slightly exaggerated version of what it did before.
This tells me one of the following.
1) My stock setup was still working pretty well
2) The S-spring is really required to enhance the function of the diff
I'll likely go with a more serious gear based LSD later on, but for now, I'm happy with the ~$40 dollar fix/upgrade.
/***UPDATE
I recently discovered my wheel bearing/seals are leaking, so it's time to replace them. See this thread. I figured while I was in there, it may be a good time to see about rebuilding/upgrading my traction-lok limited slip.
I think I'd like to upgrade it as well, by adding some friction disks. As I understand it, this should increase the longevity of the system, as well as give me a bit better traction.
I've found a couple articles like this one and this other one which completely describe, or at least mention the proceedure for rebuilding and adding clutches.
Has anyone here done this before? I've done a fair amount of searching, and cannot seem to find a write-up.
Both of the above articles show the carrier being rebuilt on the bench, but I'm considering doing this with the carrier still in the axle, so I don't have to worry about re-setting backlash and such. Not sure if this is possible or not though!
Any info, thoughts?
As with my bearing replacement, I'll probably do a writeup for this as well.
***UPDATE: I went ahead and rebuilt the diff with the +1 clutch "mod". Ended up not needing any shims, even with the .025 shim in place, it was too much.
In dis-assembling it, I did find a single clutch where one of the little "ears" which keep them from rotating with the side gears was broken, so it's a good thing that I rebuilt it, if only to fix that problem.
Because I have the 3.73 it made re-installing the "S-spring" difficult, so I left it out!
I filled it with 3 full quarts of 85-140 Dino oil for the 500 mile break in of the clutches.
When I go back in, if I feel I need to, I may re-install the "S-spring".
For sure though I'll be replacing the pinion seal, installing a Trick Flow diff cover/girdle, and filling it with 75-140 synth oil.
Impressions:
Overall, it feels pretty much like it did before the rebuild/upgrade. I can notice a slightly more positive "lock-up" of the diff when downshifting at freeway speeds, but it's only a slightly exaggerated version of what it did before.
This tells me one of the following.
1) My stock setup was still working pretty well
2) The S-spring is really required to enhance the function of the diff
I'll likely go with a more serious gear based LSD later on, but for now, I'm happy with the ~$40 dollar fix/upgrade.
/***UPDATE
I recently discovered my wheel bearing/seals are leaking, so it's time to replace them. See this thread. I figured while I was in there, it may be a good time to see about rebuilding/upgrading my traction-lok limited slip.
I think I'd like to upgrade it as well, by adding some friction disks. As I understand it, this should increase the longevity of the system, as well as give me a bit better traction.
I've found a couple articles like this one and this other one which completely describe, or at least mention the proceedure for rebuilding and adding clutches.
Has anyone here done this before? I've done a fair amount of searching, and cannot seem to find a write-up.
Both of the above articles show the carrier being rebuilt on the bench, but I'm considering doing this with the carrier still in the axle, so I don't have to worry about re-setting backlash and such. Not sure if this is possible or not though!
Any info, thoughts?
As with my bearing replacement, I'll probably do a writeup for this as well.
