Transmission trouble

[JohnH55]

My explorer is an 01 sport at 260k with the 5r55e. It has a big bad slip between 2-3, and the fluid is burnt. My question is, is it worth throwing a shift kit, and servos at it or should I just ride this thing to the bitter end and do a full rebuild? It's no longer my daily but I still use it enough were I would like it to function correctly.

 

[C420sailor]

260k on the original trans? That’s a fantastic run.

 

[JohnH55]

260k on the original trans? That’s a fantastic run.

Yes, original transmission and all the original timing chains and guides. Definitely not made on a Monday or Friday.

 

[rustylugnut]

I would not throw parts at a transmission with 260k on it. If the fluid is burnt then so are the clutches. Time for a rebuild.

 

[JohnH55]

I wanted to add a bit more info. So when I start in "1" then go to "2" then go to "D" the transmission has no shift flare/slip. But if I start in "D" the 2-3 flares/slips, what's the difference here I would have expected it to slip either way.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

260k on the original trans? That’s a fantastic run.

I have 262,500 on my 99 explorer with original trans and engine but I do have the chain rattle

 

[drdoom]

2001 models should have the bonded separator plate, and I don't know if they are at risk for valve body gasket blowout, but shift flare is known as pointing to a blown gasket. If you do go in there it wouldn't hurt to check the bolts.

 

[JohnH55]

Mostly unrelated question. I want to add a trans temp gauge. I heard there is a pressure tap on the driver side of the transmission that can work for a temp gauge do any of you guys know it that is true? I don't really know of any obd2 one that is good so I figured old school is the best idea.

 

[drdoom]

Mostly unrelated question. I want to add a trans temp gauge. I heard there is a pressure tap on the driver side of the transmission that can work for a temp gauge do any of you guys know it that is true? I don't really know of any obd2 one that is good so I figured old school is the best idea.

Correct. There is good write-up on here a member recently posted.

 

[EB4X]

$2,500 or more for trans rebuild /install.....then a year later the timing chain cassettes fail..... get a WJ 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee or a Sploder with a 4.0 ohv or 5.0

 

[JohnH55]

$2,500 or more for trans rebuild /install.....then a year later the timing chain cassettes fail..... get a WJ 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee or a Sploder with a 4.0 ohv or 5.0

If I do the transmission rebuild I'll probably do it myself, and at the same time put in new timing components in the engine. But I figured once I'm out of engineering school and the old 4.0 goes out. I'm going to build a 302 and drop it in.

 

[C420sailor]

V8 swap is a big undertaking. Easier to just buy a V8 truck.

 

[JohnH55]

V8 swap is a big undertaking. Easier to just buy a V8 truck.

I know it can be a pain but this truck is special to me, and I don't really mind the challenge. Plus I got a friend who has done that kinda of crazy stuff before

 

[CDW6212R]

I wanted to add a bit more info. So when I start in "1" then go to "2" then go to "D" the transmission has no shift flare/slip. But if I start in "D" the 2-3 flares/slips, what's the difference here I would have expected it to slip either way.

With the dirty ATF and a slipping shift, at that mileage, I doubt doing work with the VB and solenoids will save it. Shifting manually does have a different method of shifting and in some gears different clutches are used. So it's good that you can manually shift it without the slipping, but I know you don't want to drive it like that a lot. I delivered mail with my last 98 302/4R70W for close to a year with only 1st and 2nd gears. I could leave in D, but I had to shift down to 2 to keep it from attempting 3rd/4th, which resulted in no pulling, and a code after a few times letting that happen. So I drove it without letting it be in Drive above 25mph or so. It did fine for what it was, though the water pump began making noise at around 227k miles, so I bought a new 98 302 AWD.

With good care, the trans can take a lot, but once it begins to have issues, you should really not drive it. The V6 trans is weaker still, if you push that until it quits(burns up), the internal costs will be much higher than a basic rebuild.


FYI, for a 320 build, make it a 347 if you can budget PCM tuning into the project. I found a local to me stroker kit seller, he has a kit that is within $500 of the cost of building a 306. It may be as little as $400 difference, so $10 per hp is pretty good.

 

[JohnH55]

An update, I decided to get a unit from Certified Transmission because of their financing option. I'm going to be putting it in my explorer and while I am putting it in I'm going to throw a sonnex zip kit and transgo kit at it also. Since the 1700 dollar unit is a stock rebuild with no shift kits, so I'm electing to put them in myself since I want this thing to last till the engine blows up. I'm open to any other VB updates I should do, if anyone has anything to recommend or if anyone wants to try and sway my decision.

 

[fast_dave]

@JohnH55

Just sayin' - There's no mention of what you're doing about your Torque Convertor which also has 260,000 Miles on it.

It's also considered a wear part due to the fact that it has self contained needle bearing rings inside.

With that said, I'd hope that you're getting one from the same firm you're getting the rebuilt trans from - for warranty purposes.

I would also suggest not installing any shift kit or modified valve bodies until you first drive it and establish that it meets your acceptable criteria.

Hope that helps -

 

[JohnH55]

@JohnH55

Just sayin' - There's no mention of what you're doing about your Torque Convertor which also has 260 Miles on it.

It's also considered a wear part due to the fact that it has self contained needle bearing rings inside.

With that said, I'd hope that you're getting one from the same firm you're getting the rebuilt trans from - for warranty purposes.

View attachment 330784

View attachment 330785

Yes sorry I forgot to mention, it comes with a reman stock one. I would be shooting myself in the foot if I didn't, its FORD tough but not indestructible.

 

[CDW6212R]

@JohnH55

Just sayin' - There's no mention of what you're doing about your Torque Convertor which also has 260 Miles on it.

It's also considered a wear part due to the fact that it has self contained needle bearing rings inside.

With that said, I'd hope that you're getting one from the same firm you're getting the rebuilt trans from - for warranty purposes.

I would also suggest not installing any shift kit or modified valve bodies until you first drive it and establish that it meets your acceptable criteria.

Hope that helps -

View attachment 330784

View attachment 330785

I agree if there will be a warranty of some kind, first have it installed as they want it, and drive it to be sure it's good enough to work with. That would be the time to decide about any VB changes etc.

 

[96eb96]

Mostly unrelated question. I want to add a trans temp gauge. I heard there is a pressure tap on the driver side of the transmission that can work for a temp gauge do any of you guys know it that is true? I don't really know of any obd2 one that is good so I figured old school is the best idea.

Forscan or obdmx+ for android. You can even install a 7" head unit and get access to to many more gauges. Trans Temp is certainly there.

 

[JohnH55]

Should I also add a second factory cooler and just connect it in parallel with the first one? My main concern is the flow dynamics changing and slowing down to much. I do plan to be towing.