Trouble codes for the infamous 4L SOHC timing chain issues?

[joney]

I don't have a dongle or Android trouble code reader, so was planning to go to O'Reilly's to have them read my trouble codes if any. 174.000 miles, 98 Explorer XLT 4door 4x4 4L SOHC. Anyway, before I get the exhaust fixed Monday, What can you experienced Explorer hands tell me, trouble codes for timing issues, any other things I can tell over the very loud exhaust? Do the sounds start out quiet or just make the same racket from the start of a timing chain issue? If I'm unlucky enough to have gotten an engine WITH timing chain issues, I won't be rebuilding it myself (no experience or equipment, not a newbie job) I'd just have to cut my losses and find a new ride, sigh. It's not like I've had a chance to let it rip, just a couple 15 mi. trips at 50 mph, no problems that I knew of..the rest were short trips small town. Explorer in question has been using full synthetic oil...previous service records found. Might be a little paranoid, but after all I've read about this issue....

 

[J_C]

Generally the timing chain will start to rattle a bit only at cold startup, then progressively get worse and rattle all the time, then eventually either come off (cause damage due to it being an interference engine) or jump teeth and cause a timing issue and misfires. This can take thousands of miles to progress, no codes till it's too late and repair is imminent.

I don't read of any evidence you have that any of this is happening, do you hear a significant rattle when first started up? You'd hear the metallic rattling over a loud exhaust while standing in front of the engine, especially just idling at startup so exhaust noise is at its lowest level.

If you really want to put your paranoid energy to use, you could drop the oil pan to see if there are plastic chunks from the timing chain guides falling apart, but that seems premature until the question becomes one of spending a lot on a big ticket repair rather than just an exhaust. Then again I suppose an exhaust can be a big ticket repair if you need new cats too, but depending on laws in your state, you may be able to get much cheaper universal or aftermarket cats rather than high ticket Motorcraft - if you go to an independent exhaust shop, not a dealership shop.

If you're unsure of some noise, you could make a video/audio and post on youtube, or google drive, etc.

 

[XLTrunner]

There are those on this site who have been successful in spreading a lot of paranoia about timing chain issues with the SOHC. Sure, over the long haul many have succumbed to this issue but, I've also routinely seen many sitting in the local JY's over the years that have well over 200k miles (a few with 300k miles). And, who knows how many of those were even junked due to engine problems? I remember a time when achieving 100k miles was something to behold so, if I can get 200k +, I'll consider it a good run and decide from there to repair or replace. My '98 SOHC has just a few more thousand miles than yours and it doesn't show any signs of a timing chain rattle to date. To my knowledge, there is no code to identify the onset. It's pretty much by sound...and, usually at startup. If yours is rattling, don't panic. Some on here have indicated they still were able to continue driving them 30-40k miles...maybe more.

 

[C420sailor]

Mine started making noise on start at about 120-125,000mi. It almost sounded like a knock, and would go away once oil pressure came up.

Then it progressed to making noise at idle. And then also at a particular RPM (a little over 2000rpm, if I remember correctly) so I avoided cruising at that rpm.

It held until 202,000mi when I preemptively replaced the engine. It sounded like someone dumped a bag of marbles into it. I knew it would jump time eventually. Never had any codes.

When I opened the engine, the guide was broken, and the tensioner was fully extended in an attempt to take up the slack.

My “new” engine is out of a 2010 Ranger. It has nearly 160,000 on it. The newer valvetrains are more robust.

 

[joney]

Generally the timing chain will start to rattle a bit only at cold startup, then progressively get worse and rattle all the time, then eventually either come off (cause damage due to it being an interference engine) or jump teeth and cause a timing issue and misfires. This can take thousands of miles to progress, no codes till it's too late and repair is imminent.

I don't read of any evidence you have that any of this is happening, do you hear a significant rattle when first started up? You'd hear the metallic rattling over a loud exhaust while standing in front of the engine, especially just idling at startup so exhaust noise is at its lowest level.

If you really want to put your paranoid energy to use, you could drop the oil pan to see if there are plastic chunks from the timing chain guides falling apart, but that seems premature until the question becomes one of spending a lot on a big ticket repair rather than just an exhaust. Then again I suppose an exhaust can be a big ticket repair if you need new cats too, but depending on laws in your state, you may be able to get much cheaper universal or aftermarket cats rather than high ticket Motorcraft - if you go to an independent exhaust shop, not a dealership shop.

If you're unsure of some noise, you could make a video/audio and post on youtube, or google drive, etc.

Thanks for your input! It will be a while till I get thousands of miles on, I average about 2500 a year (but planning on a few road trips this spring through fall, in the 400 mile range.) There is an odd intermittent flapping noise near the windshield bottom passenger side (remember kids putting baseball cards in their spokes? Like that but much faster) I'm sure I could use aftermarket cats and exhaust parts, now that the hood opens, will listen from the front. Don't yet know if the oil pan is easy to drop or not, I don't have a diagram (it's a 4x4, not sure if that matters. Not planning to, yet!) Since I posted, I saw a video where he did have a bad chain, it sounded like dry beans in a vibrating metal pan. Can someone post videos to this forum? Thanks again for helping me with my first Explorer - first anything that wasn't a sedan!

 

[joney]

Mine started making noise on start at about 120-125,000mi. It almost sounded like a knock, and would go away once oil pressure came up.

Then it progressed to making noise at idle. And then also at a particular RPM (a little over 2000rpm, if I remember correctly) so I avoided cruising at that rpm.

It held until 202,000mi when I preemptively replaced the engine. It sounded like someone dumped a bag of marbles into it. I knew it would jump time eventually. Never had any codes.

When I opened the engine, the guide was broken, and the tensioner was fully extended in an attempt to take up the slack.

My “new” engine is out of a 2010 Ranger. It has nearly 160,000 on it. The newer valvetrains are more robust.

Thanks for the info! Didn't Ford use a better chain guide at some point beyond 1998? Seems they kept this engine in production a LONG time! Do you know if synthetic oil would make a difference ?

 

[joney]

There are those on this site who have been successful in spreading a lot of paranoia about timing chain issues with the SOHC. Sure, over the long haul many have succumbed to this issue but, I've also routinely seen many sitting in the local JY's over the years that have well over 200k miles (a few with 300k miles). And, who knows how many of those were even junked due to engine problems? I remember a time when achieving 100k miles was something to behold so, if I can get 200k +, I'll consider it a good run and decide from there to repair or replace. My '98 SOHC has just a few more thousand miles than yours and it doesn't show any signs of a timing chain rattle to date. To my knowledge, there is no code to identify the onset. It's pretty much by sound...and, usually at startup. If yours is rattling, don't panic. Some on here have indicated they still were able to continue driving them 30-40k miles...maybe more.

Good to hear that! I'm actually on a few forums, getting info on my new to me Explorer! As mentioned, I take a while to pile on the miles. Something else would probably go out that I can't afford to fix, maybe I drove 60s and 70s cars (all big blocks) quite a while, and it was expected few would make it past 200k! Not sure why. Rust got a lot of them too

 

[Mbrooks420]

Good to hear that! I'm actually on a few forums, getting info on my new to me Explorer! As mentioned, I take a while to pile on the miles. Something else would probably go out that I can't afford to fix, maybe I drove 60s and 70s cars (all big blocks) quite a while, and it was expected few would make it past 200k! Not sure why. Rust got a lot of them too

Metals, machining, oils, and engine management have all considerably increased engine life.

 

[donalds]

My engine sounds like rocks in a blender at idle

 

[joney]

My engine sounds like rocks in a blender at idle

ouch that's rough.

 

[joney]

Mine started making noise on start at about 120-125,000mi. It almost sounded like a knock, and would go away once oil pressure came up.

Then it progressed to making noise at idle. And then also at a particular RPM (a little over 2000rpm, if I remember correctly) so I avoided cruising at that rpm.

It held until 202,000mi when I preemptively replaced the engine. It sounded like someone dumped a bag of marbles into it. I knew it would jump time eventually. Never had any codes.

When I opened the engine, the guide was broken, and the tensioner was fully extended in an attempt to take up the slack.

My “new” engine is out of a 2010 Ranger. It has nearly 160,000 on it. The newer valvetrains are more robust.

Later, I found THIS: discussion of putting a pre oiler on, to solve the hydraulic pressure issue at startup:


[ATTACH=full]329800[/ATTACH]

koda2000​

Explorer Addict​

• #24

C420sailor said:


Is a pre-oiler just a hydraulic accumulator filled with engine oil?

Basically. It pressurizes when the engine is started and saves the pressurized oil in a tank. Before starting the engine you release the stored pressurized oil and it brings up your oil pressure before starting.

I think the reason I managed to get 35K out of my damaged engine was that I would always crank the starter for about 8 seconds to build oil pressure before I would allow it to start. Once I have my engine rebuilt I plan to install an Insta-Lube pre-oiler to keep it healthy. They're not cheap, but the SOHC engine really needs to be pre-oiled before starting.

Engine Pre Lube System Insta-Lube Kit Description

Can't figure out how to add the other quote, but another poster said, to keep the engine from starting in those 8 seconds they just put the gas pedal to the floor first.

 

[J_C]

There is an odd intermittent flapping noise near the windshield bottom passenger side (remember kids putting baseball cards in their spokes? Like that but much faster)

Probably HVAC, blend door noise. You might see if you can better locate it with the glovebox out.

 

[donalds]

ouch that's rough.

Lol
Still sounds like that to this day

 

[C420sailor]

Yeah, I crank mine for 3-5 seconds on cold start. It’s a good habit.

 

[donalds]

All I'm trying to say is that these engines are noisy
If its quiet on startup then leave it alone
Or Google pre-oiler

 

[Mbrooks420]

Or, you could consult a Magic 8 Ball. I think it’s pretty random. If you’re aware of it and hedge your bets with a pre-oiler, or crank it before startup you may very well have excellent service life. You need to ask yourself.

 

[joney]

LOL! Clint Eastwood still going after all these years! Always liked him, still do. I had a Magic 8 Ball back in the 70s but lost it. As for the Explorer, I like the idea of cranking some oil through it before starting (hope I have it correct, put the gas to the floor before turning the key) as there are more than a few weeks where it sits for 3 days between drives...because winter for example.

 

[C420sailor]

Yes, but it’s recommended you do two things first.

1) zip tie trick. At the top of the gas pedal is the throttle cable. Pull the slack out of the cable and put a couple zip ties (two usually does it) around the cable. Cut excess off zip ties. Takes all the slack out so you can command true full throttle.

2) warm up truck really well, shut down, try cranking pedal to floor. If the truck accidentally starts, at least you’re not revving the **** off a cold engine.

 

[blduke]

I don't have a dongle or Android trouble code reader, so was planning to go to O'Reilly's to have them read my trouble codes if any. 174.000 miles, 98 Explorer XLT 4door 4x4 4L SOHC. Anyway, before I get the exhaust fixed Monday, What can you experienced Explorer hands tell me, trouble codes for timing issues, any other things I can tell over the very loud exhaust? Do the sounds start out quiet or just make the same racket from the start of a timing chain issue? If I'm unlucky enough to have gotten an engine WITH timing chain issues, I won't be rebuilding it myself (no experience or equipment, not a newbie job) I'd just have to cut my losses and find a new ride, sigh. It's not like I've had a chance to let it rip, just a couple 15 mi. trips at 50 mph, no problems that I knew of..the rest were short trips small town. Explorer in question has been using full synthetic oil...previous service records found. Might be a little paranoid, but after all I've read about this issue....

 

[UtahX]

Thanks for the info! Didn't Ford use a better chain guide at some point beyond 1998? Seems they kept this engine in production a LONG time! Do you know if synthetic oil would make a difference ?

At 100K I switched over to M1 synthetic, to me, it does help some. I'm at 231K now, somedays are better that other's, at this time, I'm not too worried (crosses fingers), lol