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Trouble shooting help need on "cranks with no start"!

rickpotz

Member
Joined
September 19, 2008
Messages
33
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City, State
Utah
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Sport
Need Troubleshooting Help On 2000 Sport 4.0L cranks but no start!

Currently, I have a no start situation.
My car cranks but doesn't start.

I sprayed starting fluid into to the air chamber and it started and ran for a few seconds.

I changed the fuel filter. No change.
I felt the fuel pump running for a few seconds with the key on.
I replaced this a couple of years ago. The car sat for two years while I was overseas. I have driven it for about 10,000 since the replacement.

I don't have a car to run errands now so I would like to understand how to check each in order to pin point the problem so I don't have to spend a lot of travel time by bicycle or bus.

I don't have a fuel gauge or a way to check codes.

I have read a lot of articles trying to figure out what components could possibly cause my condition. Your posts have been extremely good.
But, what I need is more information on how to test each part and how to know whether it is good or bad.

I will try to list them and my understanding of the parts.
What I would like is some help on how to test them.

1) The fuel pump.
From what I've read, this can be tested with a fuel gauge. The fuel gauge tells me if the fuel pump is providing enough fuel flow. It has to be approximately 50 to 65 psi? And shouldn't drop more than 5 psi in 5 minutes?

Is there a way to test the fuel pump without a pressure gauge?
Can I detach a fuel line, turn the key on without cranking and watch the gas flow? If so, what type of flow rate am I looking for?

I understand that this is a pressurized fuel system. What I don't understand is how that affects the fuel pump.

2) fuel pump relay
According to my book, the fuel pump relay is position 5 in my owners manual.
Most of the relays are the same. I switched #5 with another one. The problem is the same.

I also tested the current with a voltmeter. One connection with the key off had over 12 volts. With the key on, another connection had 12 volts. It stays on and doesn't cut off after a few seconds? My understanding is that it is supposed to cut off? I believe that that the connection is the current coming from the PCM.

3) what are my options for checking codes?

4) PCM- this sends current to the fuel relay to ground the relay so that the fuel pump can pump?
What is the best way to test this? And, what am I looking for?
What tells me if this part is bad?

5) CKP- this sends messages to the PCM on crankshaft speed and position.
What is the best way to test this? And, what I am looking for?
What tells me if this part is bad?

6) cmp- this sends a signal to the PCM telling it where the number 1 cyclinder is. This helps in timing the sequential fuel injection.
What is the best way to test this? And, what I am looking for?
What tells me if this part is bad?

7) fuel pressure regulator-- I'm assuming this increases or decreases fuel pressure some how?
What is the best way to test this? And, what I am looking for?
What tells me if this part is bad?

8) fuel injectors-- these inject fuel into the engine.
I understand that if the fuel isn't being injected the car can't start.
What is the best way to test this? And, what I am looking for?
What tells me if this part is bad?

I believe these are all the components that can cause my no start situation.

I would appreciate all your help.

Thanks,
Rick
 



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Was the car started and let idle while you were gone overseas? If not I suspect your fuel may have gone bad. You said it ran with starter fluid for a few seconds so we know you have spark. Another thing to look at is fuel coming from the fuel pump at the injectors. You could press the shrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you have pressure (do it with protection on). Or you can pull the fuel line and direct it toward a bottle and let someone crank it to see if there is fuel going in. I suspect fuel being bad. I've read that fuel can go bad within 6 months so 2 years could definately be the issue. You could maybe try a bottle of stabil and see if it works but I suspect it only helps stabilizing fuel for long periods and not trying to remedy it.
 






Thanks for your help.
Actually, I have been driving the car for the past six months.
I just bought a fuel gauge today.

I'm hoping I can go from one part to another and eliminate each part by testing them.

Thanks again,
 












I will tomorrow.

Actually, after reading some of the post a second and third time, I have some good direction.

I bought a pressure gauge today.
 


















I have no pressure when I hooked up the fuel gauge tester.

Does that mean it is a fuel pump? Or can it be anything else?

When I turn the key on, I hear the fuel pump for a few seconds and then it shuts off.
 






























With a new fuel filter and no key on fuel pressure, I would say you have fuel pump problems.

Good luck with the resolution.
 






With a new fuel filter and no key on fuel pressure, I would say you have fuel pump problems.

Good luck with the resolution.

Well, here's my next step.

I will disconnect the fuel line before the fuel filter.
Then, attach a gauge to it.
I checked to see if the pump still hummmms while the car is being cranked.
It does.

Therefore, if the I don't have fuel pressure while cranking with the pump hummming, it must be the fuel pump.

Someone mentioned in a post that if the fuel gauge light does not go off when cranking, that it means that a ckp sensor is bad.

Well, mine doesn't go off. It stays lit.

But regardless, if I don't see pressure and the pumps running, it must be the fuel pump? I think.

My understanding is that the cmp and ckp sensors can stop the fuel pump from pumping but if my pump is pumping and I don't have pressure. I don't think it could be related.
 






Connect the fuel pressure gauge, and jump the fuel pump relay with a wire. The pump should run as long as the key is in the accessory position. You should see the gauge start to climb at one point. If it drops suddenly when you turn off the ignition, then it's possible that there is a major leak in an injector.
 






Connect the fuel pressure gauge, and jump the fuel pump relay with a wire. The pump should run as long as the key is in the accessory position. You should see the gauge start to climb at one point. If it drops suddenly when you turn off the ignition, then it's possible that there is a major leak in an injector.


I can try that! What terminals do I jump with a wire?

Thanks for the tip.
 






2 wires are for the coil which gets power when the key is turned to the accessory position. The other set of wires will cause the pump to run when it gets jumped with a wire. You could use a test light or a meter to determine which set this is. Generally, the thinner wires are for the coil while the thicker ones are for the fuel pump.
 






2 wires are for the coil which gets power when the key is turned to the accessory position. The other set of wires will cause the pump to run when it gets jumped with a wire. You could use a test light or a meter to determine which set this is. Generally, the thinner wires are for the coil while the thicker ones are for the fuel pump.


Thanks again, I will try it.
 






Here's what I found.

my pump turns on but doesn't pump.
I pulled the gas tank.
connected the harnass to the pump and then put the key in the on position.
The pump came on but didn't pump.
I cranked the engine and the pump didn't pump/
I took a negative lead from the battery and connected to the black wired connection on the pump harnass. I also ran a lead from the positive side of the battery to the red wired connection on the pump harnass.
Result: the pump ran but didn't pump gas.

Hope this helps others.
 



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